Black Jack: The show must go on... Installing the TMOSS GT40 Lower

Here is the video before the one above about Trick Flow heads...
The first five minutes is at TF and their manufacturing process, but the remainder is the same guy showing how he does things... Way beyond what I want in an engine, but I found it pretty interesting and to me it looks like a lot of the " basics " are covered even though these are mopar heads..
If I was anywhere near Jims, that is where I would take my machine work...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXcCbH-8rwg&pp=ygUXamltcyBtYWNoaW5lIHNob3AgaGVhZHM%3D

That shop is an hour away from me. I wish I had known about them when I dropped my 306 build off at a machine shop in Greeley.
 
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:redx:

It's all back together again. Another change is that I removed the 1" phenolic spacer. I'll bet it was added because the vacuum port on the bottom of the upper manifold was hitting a couple injectors until I oriented them just right.

The test drive gave me a scare, because temps went from normal to pegging out the gauge the next time I looked. Pretty sure it was an air pocket. I should know better than to drive before burping the system, but I guess I was excited. When I got it home, I idled it and got the T-stat to open, and added about 1/2 - 1 gallon. Now, it's driving great.

I honestly can't say I feel a difference. Maybe it's hanging on a bit longer at the top end. But, I really wouldn't expect to feel 10-20 hp. We'll find out at the track or dyno. Hopefully, I can avoid another collision and make it to the test n tune on Wednesday.

Ps. Oil change @ 65,700 miles on the odometer.

I didn't see the blower. Somebody needs to fix the images issues we have around here. :O_o:
 
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Ok, question: your opinion, should I swap the PCV baffle on the bottom of my intake (GT40) to the bigger one?
The one I'm using has some port work done, the other is prolly an explorer lower, looks to be a basic swap.
 
It's a basic swap with just a little drilling/tapping required. Make sure to use blue loctite if you do it. You obviously don't want a bolt dropping into the lifter valley. I have only ever had the small stock-like one. The intake I just swapped on has the large Explorer version. I had a lot of oil in my upper & lower. I hope that clears it up. I'll try to remember to hit you up if/when I figure out how effective it is. I'm planning to do something else when I swap to the new combo, because the Edelbrock Performer & Performer RPM lower doesn't accept the Explorer version baffle.
 
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No Drag strip, again, tonight:
Couldn't make it out to the track again tonight, because of a severe thunderstorm. Man, I have missed every racing event I've wanted to attend, this year. Hopefully, next week.

Made $$$ & got an upgrade out of it.
It's not sexy, but I bought a hood for $250, stripped the liner out of it, installed it in blackjack, and sold the hood for $300. I got a hood light with it, but I spend so much time under the hood, that I really don't want it installed, yet.

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Following up on last week's fender bender:
I've got a couple of estimates from recommended body shops in my area:

Elite's Estimate:
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Perry's estimate:
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I think I'm in a good spot now to haggle with the USAA adjuster. Guys, this may be my first litigious action. If he/she lowballs me, or tries to 'total' the car, I'll pay for the repair, and take 'em to small claims. I'd rather a judge decide than a low balling adjuster. I feel like this is a pretty good spot to be in.

What I may actually do is use the money towards a full paint job. There's some pretty bad oxidation on the driver's side front fender. I've got restored quarter windows on the way. Might as well do it all at once. I don't wanna go crazy, but it would be nice to have a nicer looking daily.

Fiddle Fart Fab Fail #2:
After sending back and getting a refund on my door strikers, I gave up on the hatch striker, and I replaced it with the stocker, again. This one is on Black Jack, I think. The hatch just kept popping open & it was so hard to close. I tried adjusting all over the place, but couldn't get it into a spot that made it both easy to close and made it stay closed. I was really trying. I hate replacing the stocker's bushings. After reinstalling the stocker, though, it closes just by giving a minor shove, and it should, like it previously did, stay closed. I know the door strikers were a design flaw. However, I think this is more about Black Jack's hatch & latch alignment than FF's hatch striker. I'm still willing to try the 3 I bought in the other cars.
 

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Thanks @FastDriver, those estimates vary quite a bit. The one from Elite looks more accurate, but I bet Perry’s is right that the rear body panel has “some” damage, not sure if the would have to really be replaced. I bet that can be pulled and repaired, which is what I would try to do, rather than cut it off and replace it. With your car being black, I doubt the blending of the quarter panels would be necessary as Perrys wrote.
 
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On those bumper cover replacements, I'm not sure if AM sells the same ones as LMR but I bought mine from LMR and the fit was pretty good, or at least Kevin didn't complain about it much which means it must have been decent.
 
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