Progress Thread Let's try this again...

I’m not an HVAC mechanic, but would it be worth it to check the evaporator for leaks before I pull out the dash? There has to be a way to hook up an air compressor to one end and a pressure gauge to the other, right?

Edit: I’ve done some research. ANY moisture in an AC system is super bad corrosion-wise, and considering the pressure I’d have to test it at I’d probably do nothing more than create a rusty bomb in my dashboard. So that’s probably a bad idea.
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Progress Thread Let's try this again...

Yes, those are your condenser hook ups/
Do your HVAC controls show an AC setting??
They do, I guess I just assumed Ford put the same control panel in all cars to save money.
If your going threw there trouble with new parts, replace it.. It’s probably been sitting open for years and rotted to all hell.
Well that’s a bit of a downer, but you’re probably right. I’ve been wanting to clean up the interior for awhile (headliner, missing screws, radio) so that’s probably the best time to tackle that. I’ve heard dash removal is easier in the 79-86 cars.

Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues

Sucks. Spent a lot of money on the starter just a couple months ago. Oh well I guess.
well aftermarket parts just don't have the quality 'contol' anymore, that said, a lot of cranking like a 'no start' condition takes a toll on them. I try to get stuff like starters and alternator from the O'Reilly Zone with a 'lifetime guaranty '

Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues

Sucks. Spent a lot of money on the starter just a couple months ago. Oh well I guess.
well aftermarket parts just don't have the quality 'contol' anymore, that said, a lot of cranking like a 'no start' condition takes a toll on them. I try to get stuff like starters and alternator from the O'Reilly Zone with a 'lifetime guaranty '

96 V6 Overheated, Heads Resurfaced, Valve Job, No Crank No Start Unless Jumping Ignition Fuse

Last August I was driving home from Knoxville and my car overheat and blew a radiator hose. It had also lost compression and yadda yadda. Anyways, I got the heads done and rebuilt the top end. The car will start and runs good, and would start and run pretty good previously. However after the 2nd day after the battery originally died the first time it began to not start by cranking the key and the PATS would flash, not a theft light on the dash however since their is an aftermarket HORNET system installed. (Not by me)

After some toying around, I was able to start it by grabbing the 40A ignition fuse and holding one pin in a slot and using the other sorta jump of the fuse, and when it would crank I would just keep the fuse all the way in. Keep in mind it would only crank if the key were in the full run/cranking position. I did replace the battery to no avail, and recently, after completing the heads job. It runs fantastic, however still the same deal with no crank or nothing from the ignition, except when jumped off at the fuse box in the engine bay.

Last week I also replaced the ignition switch/box under the dash/steering wheel to no avail.

Now originally, fooling around with other fuses back in Aaugust I was able to get it to start on its own from the drivers seat like you would start any regular car. But it eventually stopped being able to start like that.

I'm basically back at square one it feels, I've searched forums and talked to many people and still cannot figure out what the issue is. The electronics all work fine, except whatever is causing this issue.

Thanks.

Progress Thread Let's try this again...

Friends, I have a question about AC components…

I’ve long wanted to install AC in my car. This became a more urgent item on my list after moving to the swampy sweatbox that is South Carolina, but I assumed I needed to take out the dash and put in an evaporator to do it. However, I also know there’s a couple of pipes on the firewall that look suspiciously like factory AC hookups:
View attachment 720767
Does this mean the evaporator is already in the dash? And if so, is there a flushing process I’d have to do before hooking it up to a compressor and condenser?

If you’ve read my previous posts, you’ll know that I have some bigger, more chronic problems to resolve in the future, but if I can make the car more bearable to drive in the meantime I’d like to pursue it.

In other news, the pool job fell through at the last minute and I’m now looking at a job in landscaping that looks promising. School started up as well, so I’ll have less time to tinker in the garage for awhile, which will probably be good for my bank account.
If your going threw there trouble with new parts, replace it.. Its probably been sitting open for years and rotted to all hell.
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Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues

Cause and effect...
Cause there is oil dripping on the starter......
It's not supposed to be oiled, only operates (hopefully) for a few seconds.
I won't bore you with 'my '97 Super Duty has 600k+ miles and only replaced starter once'. True story.
Effect...
Oil seepage disrupts the electrical current, dirt and crude gathers on the oily residue making matters worse. Inside and out.
To put it in perspective, take a scrap piece of metal, any metal, place a couple drops in the centre, stick it in a corner, on a shelf, under your car, someplace out of the sun and out of your way. You will be surprised how much it spreads in a week or so. Imagine months and miles, heat cycles, you get the picture.
Replace the starter pay'n attention to the condition of cables and connections, fix the oil leak, most times it's the valve cover gaskets.
Now go forth my friend and be powerful :nice:
Sucks. Spent a lot of money on the starter just a couple months ago. Oh well I guess.
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Progress Thread Let's try this again...

Friends, I have a question about AC components…

I’ve long wanted to install AC in my car. This became a more urgent item on my list after moving to the swampy sweatbox that is South Carolina, but I assumed I needed to take out the dash and put in an evaporator to do it. However, I also know there’s a couple of pipes on the firewall that look suspiciously like factory AC hookups:
IMG_3401.jpeg

Does this mean the evaporator is already in the dash? And if so, is there a flushing process I’d have to do before hooking it up to a compressor and condenser?

If you’ve read my previous posts, you’ll know that I have some bigger, more chronic problems to resolve in the future, but if I can make the car more bearable to drive in the meantime I’d like to pursue it.

In other news, the pool job fell through at the last minute and I’m now looking at a job in landscaping that looks promising. School started up as well, so I’ll have less time to tinker in the garage for awhile, which will probably be good for my bank account.

Engine Head/Cam Recommendations

Hi everyone. Unfortunately, I had a spark plug blow out of the cylinder that already had a helicoil installed on my 04 GT. Since I need to replace a head anyway I figure I might as well go for an upgraded head/cam setup, but I have a few questions before I pull the trigger on anything. I want to keep it simple enough to continue driving it daily, so I'm hoping to keep the bottom end, clutch, and rear gear stock.

Do I need to upgrade anything in the bottom end to support the power? Is there anything I should check on the engine to make sure it's healthy enough to accept these mods?
I'm still running the stock throttle body and intake/ exhaust manifolds. I plan to get a set of long tube headers, but how do I choose a throttle body diameter? Is the stock intake manifold going to present any restrictions?
Any other supporting mods that are recommended?
What do I need to consider when ordering cams?
Do the valvetrains in these engines have hydraulic rollers?
Trickflow heads seem to be unobtainable at this point so I'm looking at Promaxx. Does anyone have experience with their products, good or bad?

Any other advice for this process would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.
What an awesome community!

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