Progress Thread Monkeybutt2000's 89 vert build thread- Back on track

Quick note here,had a slight oil leak from the AN fitting on my valve cover. I just used some cheap Amazon stuff,because it wasnt under any actual pressure. Went to tighten it a bit this afternoon and it stripped. Luckily,I had some leftover hose and fittings from when the other side stripped.
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351 Cleveland swapped MII

Bracket painted and installed with the steering rack in its final location.
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Here is the final steering shaft angle. Doesn’t seem to severe. Car turns just as easy as it ever did with no binding. I assume that’s as good of a test as you could expect.
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I was also very concerned about the possibility of the joint coming loose, could the shaft pop off the rack and I lose all steering control. So I made the shaft just long enough that even if the lock nut came lose, that shaft can not be pulled off. The steering rack literally has to be loosened and moved forward for the shaft to come off. I felt good about that. Because the lock nut would have to come lose plus the steering rack would have to come lose and move 1” forward before the steering shaft could ever separate. I like that insurance.
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Electrical please help! ive tried everything! no spark from coil!

Seems like you are on your way to success,bad connection somewhere? problems like these are hard to figure out,i told you the story about that little silver box that was arching on the coil bracket and how one of my cars would die every so often, something else i remembered that i had hell with was the following... on the drivers side next to the firewall there is a ground strap, its bolted from the back of the head to the body of the car,mine was green with corrosion and no matter how many times i would try to start the car sometimes it would and most of the time it wouldn't.

These cars are very finicky about grounds,ive seen cars with grounds dragging under the car and they run great, these cars dont, when swapping computers,did you reinstall your computer ground by the kick panel?

That's awesome you have extra TFI modules now,once you get your car going get you a little box and put a coil, a TFI module and the smallest tools you can find to do the job and put that little box in your trunk,i got one and it makes me feel a lot safer when i'm out and about, last time my module went out it was in the middle of traffic and i had no triple A or anything like that, it cost me 150 bucks to have my car towed 2 miles to my home,not happening again.

Rear Thumping Sound

Hey y’all, sorry it’s been a minute, been trying to keep up with lots of other repairs. The original problem has now changed and I wanted to know if you guys had any idea on what it could be now. At first, the thumping sound happened when it accelerated and braked at all, turning and straightaways. Recently, I took it out to reevaluate some issues and double check some stuff, and realized that now the thumping sound only happens when it turns. At this point, I have no clue what is happening. I’ve tried some of the stuff y’all suggested, but nothing seems to quite do it. If y’all have any more suggestions or ideas, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

The Junk Pyle has moved forward, well sort of

Gonna dump some pics for the two or three that are still following this boring sht. Oh, and Noobz since all he see's are ones and zeros or dots and dashes depending on what octane gas he is using when he sees this.
First the failure, human error:
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Didn't let them soak long enough! quick wipe down with laqure thinner and primer/paint.
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bolt it all up with the AC condenser in place.
Next:
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take this weeny PCV shield off and install this:

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I had asked about doing this but got no opinions so I'm doing it. I've noticed several upper intakes that I have removed from several engines and they all had two things in common, the weeny shield and black oily residue inside so it's gotta be better right?
RIGHT??
Gonna have a machine shop drill/tap the bosses for screws and glue them in with some blue Loctite. Those rivets that hold them in from the factory are hard and I don't have a tap(or the patience)
Get this lower intake on and things should start moving along at a little faster pace.
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Picked up a custom shift knob

Now that i'm home, i found the one they put up for me. It's on sale for about $20 less than I paid.
To be clear, the price goes up from what you see. Adding the heavy weight option adds $10 or so and another coin is another $12, then you have shipping. Mine came out to $232, pretty steep for a shift knob, but when something is right, it's right and you have to pay up.
The sale might get you closer to $200.
They make them to order, so it took about 2 weeks to ship, then came in 2 days.
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