4V4I

I actually have all the coolant transfer tubes :D I had planned to plumb mine with an fittings and do the cross over mod, with my 25.5 chassis there is no way I could even put heat in the car. Stock water pump actually works very well unless you want to go electric and go Meziere

I actually pull the nipple out of the lifter valley and tap that for a AN hose as well ;)
 
  • Sponsors (?)


...couple new pictures. Funny thing I noticed. I bought these believing they were '99-'01 Cobra heads, and I'm usually not too suspicious of this sort of thing, but I found a part number on the right side intake cam and wanted to bump it with a chart I have...turns out, they're Continental cams; from what I gather, they're the same as '03-'04 Cobra/Marauder/Aviator cams. Way to pull some wind out of my sails there. Anyone know of a set of either B cams or aftermarket cams I could get to liven up things a little without having to swap springs?
 

Attachments

  • prepped short block.jpg
    prepped short block.jpg
    453.7 KB · Views: 284
  • prepped 2.jpg
    prepped 2.jpg
    419.5 KB · Views: 286
  • longblock.jpg
    longblock.jpg
    450.9 KB · Views: 291
oops?? The stock 96-98 cobra cams do work well with a tuirbo... I have a set but I hesitant to unload them yet since I am unsure about these SHM cams I currently have....although if I pull them Ill probably just design a custom set. I replied to your email ;)
 
I don't blame you for that-MPS has a set on eBay I've been eyeballing all night-they're split up intakes and exhausts. I also looked at the SHM grind numbers when I went looking for turbo friendly bumpsticks last night-the duration numbers were kinda different from what I'd expect for turbo cams though. I thought most turbo cams ran a reverse split pattern...but, I know next to nothing about cams when turbocharging is involved-especially with a mod.
 
Anything new?

Well, maybe. I found a set of B cams from a seller on here for a good price. And I'm not saying anything about the guy because I don't know him, but I really hope he's not a liar like the guy who sold me the heads. If they come in as advertised, then I'll be able to finish up the long block. If the engine is complete, I'll be much more motivated to swap out the k-member and drop it in for mock up purposes. I still need to get a deep pan for the tranny and call up PA about that wiring harness. I know what all parts I need to get things done, and the list keeps growing with stuff I need to order.

I've been busy when I can on putting my '72 Plymouth back together. The engine was making death noises and I received a free Magnum 5.2 in payment for some help a while back and I knew it would need to go in soon...the original wasn't long for this world. I like driving the car, but it's been sucking my will to live for the past couple weeks. There aren't many aftermarket parts that fit the Magnums, so, my free time and several dollars have been utilized to try and put it back together. As of right now, I'm waiting on an intake manifold that hopefully won't leak coolant into the engine...there are few things that piss me off more than having to fix the same problem more than once. I'm also waiting on some brackets and cables that will make the engine play nice with the 40 year old throttle and kickdown linkages. As long as those parts do what they're intended to do, and I can fix some exhaust leaks, I'll be home free and the Mustang will once again take up my time.

I know I still need to get with you about ordering a bucket of parts. I also need to make a trip or three out to the local junkyard and start pirating every 4.6 I can find for bolts and accessories. I still don't have a ps pump or reservoir, or any of the wiring I need. I have a '98 Cobra ECU harness and a '98 GT injector harness I need to get rid of and get the required stuff to run the COPs...along with an ECU. Hell, I still need to get engine mounts for that matter.

....sigh.
 
Nic, as I venture into the Dark Side of the modular which I never saw myself doing, it is for a reason... To move as much air as a 4v B-head car at .500" you would need to run a decent aftermarket alum head at .800" on a pushrod...doesnt hurt that the Alum block will take 1500hp with no issues. My old Ford Racing 351G Race block is sitting on my floor with a Billet crank in it collecting dust for a reason ;)
 
Nic, as I venture into the Dark Side of the modular which I never saw myself doing, it is for a reason... To move as much air as a 4v B-head car at .500" you would need to run a decent aftermarket alum head at .800" on a pushrod...doesnt hurt that the Alum block will take 1500hp with no issues. My old Ford Racing 351G Race block is sitting on my floor with a Billet crank in it collecting dust for a reason ;)

Oh yea, multi-valve is a beautiful thing. I just wish Ford would have put a little more bore and stroke under those enormous valve covers. You guys are remedying that with boost, though, which I can be on board with. :nice:
 
I like to harass the 4.6 guys, but what you got there is shaping up to be pure badass! Can't wait to see a finished product. You should also post up pics of the Mopar!

Thanks! I hope it turns out well. Unless I find time and a body guy, it'll still be half-primered by the time the engine does finally go in, but I have to fix a couple issues with past body cancer (little ones, but still need a good fix). I agree wholeheartedly about the lack of bore spacing in the modulars, but there are tons of folks making great power with them and relatively cheap parts are still very available.

Here's a couple pictures of my poor beat up old mopar...
 

Attachments

  • 100_2458a.JPG
    100_2458a.JPG
    177.6 KB · Views: 286
  • seats 2.jpg
    seats 2.jpg
    381.4 KB · Views: 280
  • new seats.jpg
    new seats.jpg
    375.4 KB · Views: 284
  • 100_2461a.JPG
    100_2461a.JPG
    158.8 KB · Views: 296
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Thanks! I hope it turns out well. Unless I find time and a body guy, it'll still be half-primered by the time the engine does finally go in, but I have to fix a couple issues with past body cancer (little ones, but still need a good fix). I agree wholeheartedly about the lack of bore spacing in the modulars, but there are tons of folks making great power with them and relatively cheap parts are still very available.

Here's a couple pictures of my poor beat up old mopar...

Heck man, I love it! It'll actually be kind of cool to have a modern engine in that car in the condition it's in. I'd be half-tempted to leave it as-is, but some of that cancer does look pretty far along...
 
Heck man, I love it! It'll actually be kind of cool to have a modern engine in that car in the condition it's in. I'd be half-tempted to leave it as-is, but some of that cancer does look pretty far along...

Oh-the reference to small bits of cancer was about my Mustang-I have to patch the roof where it meets the hatch; no idea how that part was rusted through and nothing else was.:shrug:

The Scamp OTOH...yeah, it needs a bunch of bodywork. I have a quarter panel from a parts car coming in from Florida in a while, and I'll probably buy a new trunk floor and the trunk drop panels whenever I get the quarter cut out..might have to cut out a section of the driver's quarter too-dunno yet. What you see in the picture of the driver's side is a poor attempt at a fiberglass repair (thanks Dad) that was never worked aside from laying down the glass and rotted in the Houston elements. I took all that crap off and the amount of cancer underneath wasn't that bad...nothing that some grinding and rust cure wouldn't fix. The passenger side though...man that side was downright ugly. The body joint was/is completely gone. I welded in some small patch/joiner panels, but they are in no way intended as anything more than a temporary restoration of unibody integrity. Which is why I hope the guy who's cutting up his parts car gives me all I need to fix it, otherwise I'll be doing some fabbing. The door skin and the fender I can patch with junk yard cutouts...sawsall is your friend.
 
The only pix I have of my '84 are pretty old or really small (avatar)-I'll have to dig up a couple when I get off work. I need to get the Scamp fixed so I can roll the Mustang out and take a few up to date pix...
 
Anything new?

Hallelujah! There are some honest folks in the world-and ones that give good deals! My cams came in the mail today-B cams with bolts, gears, short chains, spacers, and secondary tensioners with hardware. I dropped the cams on the heads, but I'll probably have to rent one of the cam locking tools to break torque on the bolts so I can get the short chains back on and start messing with timing. Which leads me to a question...

Could I extract a useful or appreciable increase in power by playing with the lobe separation? Or should I just install them 0* on the stock 114* LSA? I know I'm not dealing with aftermarket cams with a really high top end, but I was just curious if there's anything really to gain by messing with stock timing apart from making sure the events are consistent.
 
Nice deal Jeff!

Id install them straight up to start with, I think its a great starting point for that combo. Im going to sell my SHM fully ported, short runner 97 cobra intake if you know anyone. I decided just to build a complete sheetmetal for mine.
 
Noted-I'll do that. I just wanna make sure I'm putting it all together correctly, so it might be a little bit before I get it all put squared away. Hell, it'll be a bit anyway, even if I did have the cams in, I have to get fasteners for the oil pan, cam covers, and timing cover. If it isn't one thing it's another...I still need all the accessory parts too. Is there anything 2V I can use? Something tells me 4V stuff in the junk yards around here are scarce at best.
 
Ok, so I got the Scamp up and running...down to some tuning items, and go figure my timing light and vacuum gage are NOWHERE to be found-probably loaned to a friend...guess I'll do it the old fashioned way...anywho...

This allows me more time for the Mustang :rock:

Ok, so before I spend money on big items (turbo, exhaust, fuel system parts, etc), I need to square away some foundational things:

degree the cams
finish the longblock
install the new K
install f/l subs
install torq box reinforcements
drop in/mock up engine/tranny/ds fitment (engine lift plate for 4.6 anyone, or just hooks and bolts?)
shorten d/s as req'd
mock up shifter (maybe use a B&M Hammer...)

Once I get the engine situated in the car, I'll be able to mock up some other stuff...and yes, pictures will come with progress...just might be sporadic.