Aluminum Master Cylinder - Manual Disks?

[phutch11]

I've got Scarebird disk brakes on my 66 with drums out back. I need to move to a new master cylinder as my current one is a dual for a 1967 with drums all around.

I know that the 74 Maverick is what is recommended, but I'd like to move away from the heavy cast iron MC and to a modern aluminum MC with a plastic reservoir.

I've heard of people running a 1993 Ranger master or one from a Cobra - 1995, I think.

The Cobra is way too much - $150; and the Ranger's diameter is close, but not dead on.

Anyone with manual disks running a modern aluminum MC?

Thanks

 

[Grabber70Mach]

If I remember correctly look at a 94-95 5.0 mustang. I think that is the one I used when I did my conversion.

 

[phutch11]

Pedal feel good?

Good travel and ability to modulate?

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[wicked93gs]

I have an aluminum dual bowl master...I used one from an '84 t-bird....some of these are aluminum and some are cast iron...remanned it was $25 at autozone...however the ports are on the engine side so it would require new lines...but mine is still the old style without the plastic resevoir(I hate how cheap they look)

p.s. 7/8" bore so its great for manual brakes

 

[Vinyl66]

I have Wilwood 4 wheel discs on my '66 and run the Ford D9AZ-2140-A master cylinder. It is all aluminum (no plastic) so it looks good in the engine compartment, has a 1" bore, and is much lighter than the big cast iron ones.

 

[phutch11]

Just for the record, I found data that a MC from a 1993 Dodge Spirit would work- it doesn't work.

Just going with the old heavy 74 Maverick.
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[Grabber70Mach]

Pedal feel good?

Good travel and ability to modulate?

Posted via Mobile Device

Sorry for the late reply, my setup is PDB and I just noticed that yours is manual. Mine works fine, but not really sure how it would work in a MDB setup.

 

[JohnnyK81]

I'm in the same boat, except I Have power discs as well. I currently have the SN95 master on there, but it has a rock hard pedal feel.. It's 1 1/16 I believe, wondering if I should step it down to a 15/16 or so?

 

[Rusty67]

7/8 and 15/16 are the sizes I'm use to seeing in a manual brake setup.

 

[JohnnyK81]

Agreed. So I wonder why my 1 1/16 is far too stiff with a power booster. And if stepping down to a 15/16 will make my pedal hit the floor.

 

[Rusty67]

It should make your pedal effort easier but if you are having stiffness issues with the current setup, I would see if you have an issue with your booster as it is. Is the pedal just as stiff without the boosters assistance as it is with assistance ?

 

[JohnnyK81]

Pedal does sink a bit when the car is started. As well it seems to hold pressure (it's a brand new remanned). However, what I found odd, is while driving on some gravel (Car isn't road worthy yet) I was testing the brakes. If I hammered on this brick of a pedal, the fronts locked, but the rears wouldn't, even with the adjust. prop valve all the way to the rear, but they bled fine, so I"m stumped.

 

[Rusty67]

Do you have drums in the rear ? Is there a residual pressure valve in the drum circuit ? Is it put in the proper direction ?

 

[JohnnyK81]

Nah, SN95 discs in the rear, stock 68's up front. SN95 master, plumbed correctly (front to rear, etc), going into a simple Tee for the fronts. Rears go directly from the M/C to the prop valve. As I said, I'm stumped. Vacuum is good.

 

[Rusty67]

Now that we have completely hijacked the thread....


What power booster are you using ?


.......


Actually, make another thread for this... it should really be on its own.

 

[JohnnyK81]

Yeeeeeah, I apologize for that. But it's still helpful to the OP. Remanned Bendix. I was alternating between 10 and 15" vacuum.

 

[phutch11]

No worries I,m all set with a vast iron boat anchor of a MC.

You may need a residual pressure valve in the rear circuit to keep enough fluid back there to get those rear discs to work.

What pedal are you using?

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[JohnnyK81]

Never heard of anyone using a residual valve on rear discs, unless they are higher than the M/C or some such.. Using the correct power pedal. I guess all I can do is change the M/C and see what kind of difference it makes. Or test the pressure at each caliper, but I really don't feel like buying another tool. haha

Don't suppose there is an online calculator, or anyone knows the equation of piston bore to m/c bore to pedal travel?

 

[67coupestang]

ill chime in with my 98 explorer m/c im running brakes from a 73 on both ends, pedal feel is firm but not bad, but im not sure i would like it if the car was an automatic. the only problems i remember were finding adapters to the metric bungs

 

[zm830101]

ill chime in with my 98 explorer m/c im running brakes from a 73 on both ends, pedal feel is firm but not bad, but im not sure i would like it if the car was an automatic. the only problems i remember were finding adapters to the metric bungs

are you using power brakes as well?