What Is All Needed To Build A 800 Horsepower '13 5.0?

Dude, do what you want, but coming out of basic with E2 pay and trying to build a 800HP car is going to make you go in debt faster than a politician sticking his hands in your pockets. Base pay for an E2 is $1699.80. Do yourself a favor and at least wait till you're an E-4 or E-5 and geting BAH and BAS before you start your 800HP car goals.
I don't want 800 horsepower ASAP I wouldn't be able to drive the car bc I'm only use to about 380. But if I can get a 5.0 and build it up that way and get 800 safely and reliably then ill be happy with that. I don't need a all mighty power car that'll demolish anything it races. This car has to be a daily driver until I can get something else. That's why my ultimate goal is 700-800 horsepower and ik the easiest way to get there is supercharger or turbo.
 
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Someone I know runs what is claimed to be a 800 HP '13 GHIG (Gotta Have it Green) Boss 302 on a stock block and mostly forced induction (forgot if it was a supercharger or turbo). I think that's another thing to consider, I've heard the Boss 302 engines are a little more beefed up than the GT ones if you want to look around for a Boss.
 
The used GT500 is definitely the way to go if you want to get to 800. I understand you're not looking for 800 right now, but to piece your way to it as finances become available. However, it's not really about time or money. It's about whether the 5.0 can safely put out 800hp without being a ticking time bomb. You don't want all that money going down the :poo:ter because you missed a shift and grenaded your engine. You also don't want the thought of the possibility hanging around in the back of your head. Your 5.0+KB setup isn't going to be much cheaper than a used GT500, especially considering the up front cost of the KB.
 
Step one: get done with basic and AIT, or whatever your branch calls it, and get to your first duty station.

Step two: do a lot of research, and not barracks hot rodder research. 98% of that is bs.

Step three: unless your goal is to build a dyno hero, figure out what you really want your car to DO. 800 hp is only useful for barracks hot rodding (see step 2). Do you want a street/strip car? Autocrosser? Open track/ HPDE car? Or just a stoplight racer? Once you define that, build for a goal. You'll very likely discover that a stock 5.0, or mild bolt-on/ tuned car will give you more than enough power. Unless you're shooting for low 9s, 800 hp is overkill.

Step four: once you define your goal, find out what others have built to meet similar goals. Develop a build plan, then stick with it. Don't get sucked in by shiny ads and marketing promises. Build handling that gets your power to the ground effectively, braking to control it, then build more power if necessary.

Step 5: don't be a typical Joe and sign up for a car that, with payment and insurance will consume 50% of your paycheck before you even start to drive it. Unless you are so addicted to **** that no live human can measure up, you're eventually going to start dating. That costs money, and contrary to all the ads in the rags, very few women are going to crawl into your car with breasts heaving, wearing nothing but a thong, and a "take me, Coyote stud" look, because you have 800hp and $500 a month discretionary income. If you're successful at dating, you'll eventually get married, and she's not going to want to live in a trailer park full of crack heads and child molesters so you can keep your dyno monster, at which time you'll end up selling it (you'll take a huge loss, btw, barely covering your note, and not recouping your down payment, let alone the $20k in mods that you'll need to get to 800hp).

Step six: if you're not pissed, and are still reading-- start your plan with an 11-12 used 5.0 . There are some out there that haven't been nodded, or hammered on, that will be good foundations for building a sweet car, that will meet step three. You'll have half the money in it than you would have had in your original plan, and should still be able to keep it, and afford a decent apartment with your new bride (until you figure out what a PITA it is to put a car seat in a Mustang).

Yeah, I know I sound like your dad. I'm old enough to be your dad. I am also retired military, and have seen thousands travel the same path I did, and you're about to. You can learn from our mistakes, or recreate them. If you choose the former, you can get an early start on a great life, where you can have much fun, play with cool cars, and have an amazing family... over time. Or you can think you're smarter than all of us who tried to have it all now.

Sorry for the rant. Just giving the advice I wish someone had given me, and the dozens of troops that works for me that I had to help unscrew their finances and lives.

Good luck in Basic!
 
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Someone I know runs what is claimed to be a 800 HP '13 GHIG (Gotta Have it Green) Boss 302 on a stock block and mostly forced induction (forgot if it was a supercharger or turbo). I think that's another thing to consider, I've heard the Boss 302 engines are a little more beefed up than the GT ones if you want to look around for a Boss.
The boss don't come in the color I want. Deep impact blue.
 
Step one: get done with basic and AIT, or whatever your branch calls it, and get to your first duty station.

Step two: do a lot of research, and not barracks hot rodder research. 98% of that is bs.

Step three: unless your goal is to build a dyno hero, figure out what you really want your car to DO. 800 hp is only useful for barracks hot rodding (see step 2). Do you want a street/strip car? Autocrosser? Open track/ HPDE car? Or just a stoplight racer? Once you define that, build for a goal. You'll very likely discover that a stock 5.0, or mild bolt-on/ tuned car will give you more than enough power. Unless you're shooting for low 9s, 800 hp is overkill.

Step four: once you define your goal, find out what others have built to meet similar goals. Develop a build plan, then stick with it. Don't get sucked in by shiny ads and marketing promises. Build handling that gets your power to the ground effectively, braking to control it, then build more power if necessary.

Step 5: don't be a typical Joe and sign up for a car that, with payment and insurance will consume 50% of your paycheck before you even start to drive it. Unless you are so addicted to **** that no live human can measure up, you're eventually going to start dating. That costs money, and contrary to all the ads in the rags, very few women are going to crawl into your car with breasts heaving, wearing nothing but a thong, and a "take me, Coyote stud" look, because you have 800hp and $500 a month discretionary income. If you're successful at dating, you'll eventually get married, and she's not going to want to live in a trailer park full of crack heads and child molesters so you can keep your dyno monster, at which time you'll end up selling it (you'll take a huge loss, btw, barely covering your note, and not recouping your down payment, let alone the $20k in mods that you'll need to get to 800hp).

Step six: if you're not ****ed, and are still reading-- start your plan with an 11-12 used 5.0 . There are some out there that haven't been nodded, or hammered on, that will be good foundations for building a sweet car, that will meet step three. You'll have half the money in it than you would have had in your original plan, and should still be able to keep it, and afford a decent apartment with your new bride (until you figure out what a PITA it is to put a car seat in a Mustang).

Yeah, I know I sound like your dad. I'm old enough to be your dad. I am also retired military, and have seen thousands travel the same path I did, and you're about to. You can learn from our mistakes, or recreate them. If you choose the former, you can get an early start on a great life, where you can have much fun, play with cool cars, and have an amazing family... over time. Or you can think you're smarter than all of us who tried to have it all now.

Sorry for the rant. Just giving the advice I wish someone had given me, and the dozens of troops that works for me that I had to help unscrew their finances and lives.

Good luck in Basic!

First off I want to say thank you for serving. And second I want to say thank you for this it really helped me a lot but the most likely road ill be going down is by the time ill be able to buy the car and have a good down payment ill be out of AIT and Mohave viper and all that good stuff. Sit it won't be until sometime next summer or later. I've talked to fellow marines and they said as soon as they got out of basic they only had 2-3k and I don't wanna spend all the money I have in a down payment. But I'm hoping by the time I get ready to by the 2013 will be cheaper. Bc I want to put down around 5-7k and pay for 72 months just so my payments are cheaper. I've figured up that's the only way I can do it is get a payment under 500 a month
 
Something else I wanted to add after reading through @Husky44 's post...

There is a HUGE difference between what someone claims their car puts out and what it REALLY puts out. I would hazard to guess that you've probably never driven anything that was even CLOSE to 800. I would go even further and say that you've probably never driven anything that was even CLOSE to 500 Hp (real not imagined).

Finally, I would also hazard to guess that if you went through all the trouble to build a REAL 500 RWHP car that you would have to search high and low to find someone to outrun it.

My Fox makes 480 RWHP. It's funny that it has consistently and repeatedly outrun 600+ RWHP cars (as stated by their owners). One such opponent actually produced a 750 RWHP dyno sheet. :shrug: Was it his? I've no idea. All I know is that his ass got waxed by a 480 RWHP Fox body. :shrug:

Point is that there's a LOT of fuzzy math going on out there. If you were to purchase a used Shelby and sunk money ONLY into making that thing hook up (i.e. suspension work), you would likely never find it's equal on the street unless you went hunting for it. Even another Shelby would be put on the shelf in 99% of circumstances.
 
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I should chime in on something, I haven't mentioned it on Stangnet at all but I drive a '13 GT500. I can tell you the car fights all of the driving assists (AdvanceTrac and Traction Control) at full throttle. I kind of second what these guys say about what experience you have with driving high power cars, my GT500 spends most of its time with the throttle at 1/4 or less because on the street anything else is just asking for trouble.
 
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To the OP: My recommendation for you is to wait it out (I know), save up your cash for a down-payment, or wait for an advancement to E4, then bring your Platoon Leader or PSG with you to the dealership. Depending on where you will be stationed, and the unit, a POV Inspection sheet includes a memorandum regarding the intent to purchase a new auto. I say that to say this: Do not sign anything unless the PL/PSG or even a knowledgeable Squad Leader, is present. Do not agree to any interest rate above 3 percent (I have seen Soldiers "get taken for a ride" with 8, 9 14, and 20 percent interest rates). Do not allow them to pressure you into buying an extended warranty 5, 6, 7 yrs; It will push your payment higher, but if you plan to finance the car for 5 yrs perhaps an extended warranty is wise. HOWEVER, I DO recommend that you buy GAP Insurance on the new vehicle. ADDITIONALLY, use the USAA Car Buying Service (assuming you have USAA). Come in with USAA financing, at the best rate possible, then let them try to beat it for a better deal. They may beat the deal, but also tell you, 'with the money you're saving, you can buy more options.' I recommend against it unless you are prepared.

Also, bear-in-mind, that your base pay is taxed. If you are a single Soldier with no dependents, you will not receive BAH. You will be living in the barracks. Your car will be left to fend for itself in the barracks parking lot - so park out in Egypt. You will have to pay for your own Cable and High-Speed Internet for your barracks room (that is what my barracks Soldiers do). Since you will have roommates, you all could potentially split your bills.
 
I did over 40 years in the mines, raised 4 daughters helped get them educated, grown up and three married and they still like to have me around as a grandfather. I also have a great wife of 34 years who likes mustangs. I flew commercially as a moonlight job owned an airplane, had lots of motorcycles and still have one. I now in the twilight of a working life have the best job and the best pay. I can now afford a (to me) powerful new car and have a 13 track pack GT. Get your education, skills, have a good work ethic, be generous to those less fortunate and you can have a great life and in good time a hot mustang, without starting off rich. Patience is a virtue, build a good life on good solid foundations - be very cautious about debt real easy to get into and for some a living nightmare thereafter. Yes I am a dad and grandfather can't help it sorry. Wishing you all a good long life that is enjoyed to the fullest.
 
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