Which Supercharger?

Think I'll go this route for the pump along with a BAP;
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...and-i-will-tell-you-where-to-get-them.854609/

Talked to VooDoo racing here in town about tuning it ($400 for a tune, must be pretty much an industry standard price) and asked if he had a set of 36 or 42lbs injectors. Says he thinks he has a set of 39's. So probably those.

MAF, I'm not sure. Doesn't say you need a new one, but the only place for one is in that sewer pipe cai it comes with. Pull MAF sensor out of stock housing and put it in the new pipe maybe? When I get the instructions, I'll let you know.
 
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I would get a set of 60lb injectors, only because the potential. If u decide to upgrade the internals at a later time, that is one less expense you will have to deal with when u up the boost. As for the stock MAF, u will need a MAFia in order to use it. Mine pegged pretty quickly with the 2.1 kit. I know kenne bell says the stock MAF will work, but it doesn't.
 
39 pound injectors, 90 mm Lightning MAF, and SVT Focus fuel pump here. Don't know the exact horsepower (the 335 in my sig is definitely low), but it has trapped 120 at 3600 pounds before the blower port and pulley, and I expect it to go 122+ once I get it retuned. 122 @ 3600 pounds would equate to roughly 450 rwhp in a 5-speed. Take it FWIW.
 
Will look into a 90mm MAF and 60lbs injectors. Getting to be quite the learning experience as far fuel injection goes. Thought 60lbs injectors might be a bit much, but if they'll work, I'll go that route. Like you said, only have to buy them once.

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I forgot to ask, what are the chances this will start/run on the factory tune after I do this? I'm figuring slim to none, but you never know. I'm sure VooDoo can do a get it to the shop tune or I could call a roll back and have it towed. Just going from the north end of Vegas to the south end.

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It won't. New MAF + bigger injectors and the car will run super rich. I tried it with the 36lb injectors and couldn't keep it running, plan on trailering it to the dyno. You could keep the stock injectors and stock MAF in the car and it will run on the stock tune, then swap in the 60lbers and MAF in when u get to the dyno... But if you do that make sure that you do not go in to any boost (or even come close). Otherwise the motor will pop. Personally, I would just tow it, cheap insurance.
 
Injectors depend on how good the tuner is. I've seen 60s tuned to near-stock driveability. 83s are really pushing it and there are a few more hiccups but not undriveable. Just hard to open injectors that big very small amounts at idle.

I'm not a fan of BAPs. Lots of people have had success with them, I'm just not a fan of running an electronic component at voltage greater than it was designed for in an attempt to get it to work better.

For what you're doing now, I would do 42/LMAF/Focus. It will get you where you want power wise and is an OEM setup and will deliver that ease of tuning and drive quality. If you go built/bigger down the road you will need to upgrade, but you're talking about doing a tank/lines/etc. at that point and it's not like you'll lose your ass on selling the 42/LMAF/Focus.
 
and DONT try to start it with out a tune. I made this mistake not once, but twice! It will flood the engine and you will need to change your oil

It will run super rich (if it runs at all), but why will the oil need changing? If fuel is getting into your oil, you've got a major problem.

I was able to drive mine out of the shop and onto the trailer with minimal effort (LMAF, 39 pounders, SVTF pump), but I wouldn't take it down the road like that.
 
You put enough fuel in the hole during the combustion process and eventually some of it leaks past the rings, especially at idle when you are moving relatively little air compared to under load. This is why older carbeurator engines need rebuilds so much more often and the cylinder walls are all beat the hell up where as you can often pull a 200K mile stock MSEFI engine apart and still see the OEM crosshatching.

For a few minutes with the combination you listed, you were probably fine. Put a big enough change in MAF and/or injector in the car and it won't even start.
 
It will run super rich (if it runs at all), but why will the oil need changing? If fuel is getting into your oil, you've got a major problem.

I was able to drive mine out of the shop and onto the trailer with minimal effort (LMAF, 39 pounders, SVTF pump), but I wouldn't take it down the road like that.
I started my car on stock tune ( or at least tried to ) and it flooded.....then the gas eventually seeped through into the oil. From what my tuner told me, if you start your car with bigger injectors/pump/maf on the stock tune....your engine will flood. But, from what I have read on here and other forums...some people are able to start their car on the stock tune and some aren't. Id recommend getting a start up tune.
 
I drove my Kenne bell 2.1 with #39 injector and a Aviator Fuel pump 20 miles on the stock tune to the tuner to get the real tune.

Yes, the car drive kinda :poo:ty and stalled twice, but i had no real issues driving it to the tuner.
 
Lucky your tuner is so close. Lucky you could drive your car even. My tuner is roughly 150 miles away

If my tuner was further away, he was gonna send me a base tune that could have driven me any amount of distance.

So lets say my tuner was 150 miles away, he could email me a basic tune, I upload the tune and drive the car to him for the official tuning. Alot of tuners will do this for you.
 
If my tuner was further away, he was gonna send me a base tune that could have driven me any amount of distance.

So lets say my tuner was 150 miles away, he could email me a basic tune, I upload the tune and drive the car to him for the official tuning. Alot of tuners will do this for you.
My tuner offered to do this, but after flooding my engine (even with a start up tune it would flood itself) I didn't want to risk flooding it again so I got a flat bed