Lost Oil Pressure!

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Stethoscope really won't tell you anything. Pump is rotating fine, no lumps in the oil. Check the oil sending unit, pop valve covers and relash rockers. Put new oil and see what happens
 
Stethoscope really won't tell you anything. Pump is rotating fine, no lumps in the oil. Check the oil sending unit, pop valve covers and relash rockers. Put new oil and see what happens
i put 2 sending units already,tested oil right from the engine with a tester,5psi,maybe the pressure release valve in the pump i dont know?
 
Hope you used zinc additive on the break in. Roller or flat tappet. All the new metal needs something to grind on other than itself. Along with conventional oil, not synthetic. For the first 3 oil changed, then change to your preferred oil. I always put Lucas zinc additive in every oil change tho. Break-ins are critical. Whether it fails in 100 miles or 10,000. Especially if it's on the street, because street cars are like circle track cars, It's not just a quarter mile and done. So, if you pull it, take it back to your shop and hang around for the disassembly. Just IMO
 
didnt use any additives,builder said to use straight oil,hes thinking oil pump pressure valve,or maybe a oil gully plug?,not sure what thats is,he going to call me back,also said if it dosnt have metal fragments "might" not be the rod bearings.....still evaluating before i pull it
 
Hate to hear this :poo: good luck I hope it's just a pump . I have a melling in my car as well with a arp drive shaft on it
 
Hate to hear this **** good luck I hope it's just a pump . I have a melling in my car as well with a arp drive shaft on it
tell me about it,i didnt cheap out on anything either,and still have issues,even if its the pump,im stressing if the engine got damaged.....i cut the oil filter open and it was clean though, but by the looks of it ill be pulling the engine next weekend,and ill inspect the rod bearings and crank,depressing!
 
tell me about it,i didnt cheap out on anything either,and still have issues,even if its the pump,im stressing if the engine got damaged.....i cut the oil filter open and it was clean though, but by the looks of it ill be pulling the engine next weekend,and ill inspect the rod bearings and crank,depressing!
tell me about it . not cheaping put and still having issues I feel for you
 
tell me about it,i didnt cheap out on anything either,and still have issues,even if its the pump,im stressing if the engine got damaged.....i cut the oil filter open and it was clean though, but by the looks of it ill be pulling the engine next weekend,and ill inspect the rod bearings and crank,depressing!

hello;

A gauge that reads incorrectly will never, ever, cause lifter noise.

You say you saw NO metal. O, nada, none, zilch. If this is the case, most likely your engine is fine in which case i would NOT pull it just yet.

What oil are you using?

It's uncommon to run straight weight in a street engine these days.

If you drive when it is hot outside, I might use 20w-50. If you drive when it is cool, I might use 20w-40. If you drive when it is freezing I might use 15w-30.

Check to see if any rockers are extremely loose. if one is, the lifter might have have exploded internally.

As mentioned, it is possible your pump is faulty. Some of the new mellings pumps have had metal in them from the mfg process and this has jambed some pressure balls in the open or partially open position. you can disassemble it and clean it including the valve portion then reinstall the pan with just a few screws and try it again.

As mentioned, check to see if any rockers are extremely loose. if one is, the lifter might have have exploded internally.

If the pressure is still the same you can either try another pump or look at the back of the engine. If it is extremely oily, your rear lifter galley plug cam out. If not, pull the timing cover and see if the front lifter galley plug came out. If so, just reinstall them and run it.

Cold oil will read higher on the pressure gauge than warm oil. If you only have 5 psi with cold oil and a drill, you certainly have O oil pressure when its warm.

.
 
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hello;

A gauge that reads incorrectly will never, ever, cause lifter noise.

You say you saw NO metal. O, nada, none, zilch. If this is the case, most likely your engine is fine in which case i would NOT pull it just yet.

What oil are you using?

It's uncommon to run straight weight in a street engine these days.

If you drive when it is hot outside, I might use 20w-50. If you drive when it is cool, I might use 20w-40. If you drive when it is freezing I might use 15w-30.

Check to see if any rockers are extremely loose. if one is, the lifter might have have exploded internally.

As mentioned, it is possible your pump is faulty. Some of the new mellings pumps have had metal in them from the mfg process and this has jambed some pressure balls in the open or partially open position. you can disassemble it and clean it including the valve portion then reinstall the pan with just a few screws and try it again.

As mentioned, check to see if any rockers are extremely loose. if one is, the lifter might have have exploded internally.

If the pressure is still the same you can either try another pump or look at the back of the engine. If it is extremely oily, your rear lifter galley plug cam out. If not, pull the timing cover and see if the front lifter galley plug came out. If so, just reinstall them and run it.

Cold oil will read higher on the pressure gauge than warm oil. If you only have 5 psi with cold oil and a drill, you certainly have O oil pressure when its warm.

.
0 metal anything without dropping the pan,i use 10-30 royal purple,had 50psi pressure at all times before my issue,upper and lower is off,the rear oil galley plug seems fine,havnt checked the front yet,ill check the valves but i dont see how that would cause 0,psi?....ill find out tomorrow,only have the engine mounts left to unbolt and its out
 
0 metal anything without dropping the pan,i use 10-30 royal purple,had 50psi pressure at all times before my issue,upper and lower is off,the rear oil galley plug seems fine,havnt checked the front yet,ill check the valves but i dont see how that would cause 0,psi?....ill find out tomorrow,only have the engine mounts left to unbolt and its out

what do you mean by upper and lower?

if the internals of the lifter grenaded, your oil pressure would be reduced but most likely would no go to 0. it is simply another easy thing that should be checked imo.

what brand of royal purple? their race/off road oils have tons of zddp.

imo, there is no point to take it out unless you are simply going to rebuild the entire thing.

if you are not leaking oil, you are sucking it in thru the pcv for some reason or it is burning it thru the rings and/or valve guides.

i would do a compression test
.
 
At zero psi, spinning the motor to do a confession test is the last thing he needs.
thats for sure....lol,anyway,i pulled the engine,dropped the pan,and there was zero metal fragments to be seen,so im almost positive that i caught it in time.....but i did find the problem!!!,wish i can change the tittle to solved!,it was the front oil galley plug,found it at the bottom of my oil pan!,i dont like the idea of a tap in plug,i see some are threaded,that would make me feel much safer!,i have to look into that.
View attachment 111815
View attachment 111816
 
what do you mean by upper and lower?

if the internals of the lifter grenaded, your oil pressure would be reduced but most likely would no go to 0. it is simply another easy thing that should be checked imo.

what brand of royal purple? their race/off road oils have tons of zddp.

imo, there is no point to take it out unless you are simply going to rebuild the entire thing.

if you are not leaking oil, you are sucking it in thru the pcv for some reason or it is burning it thru the rings and/or valve guides.

i would do a compression test
.
View attachment 111814
had to checked rear oil galley plug