Header Question

mhjo

Founding Member
Nov 9, 2000
490
0
17
Oslo, Norway
I have the HiPo manifolds right now. I have upgraded engine with roller cam setup, and wonder if I have anything to gain by switching to headers?

And if so, I saw at summit that they have shorty, medium, Tri-Y and full-size. What to go for (if go for)
 
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I have the HiPo manifolds right now. I have upgraded engine with roller cam setup, and wonder if I have anything to gain by switching to headers?

And if so, I saw at summit that they have shorty, medium, Tri-Y and full-size. What to go for (if go for)

I believe there was some testing on the HiPo manifolds vs. Tri-Y finding no appreciable difference. It was discussed in a thread here a couple of years ago.
 
I have the HiPo manifolds right now. I have upgraded engine with roller cam setup, and wonder if I have anything to gain by switching to headers?

And if so, I saw at summit that they have shorty, medium, Tri-Y and full-size. What to go for (if go for)

hello;

what heads do you have?

what intake?

exactly what cam?

what size is your engine?
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I like JBA long tubes, good fit even around a large transmission like my AOD. Performance is good but you will have to put them on to see. My setup is similar to yours.

Gt40 heads ported and polished
Edelbrock dual plane intake
Ford racing e303 cam
Roller 306
 
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In my opinion, if you want to keep the vintage look then run the Hipo manifolds. I like to run long tubes, Hokker has a set for around $200 last time I checked which was not too much more than a set of Tri-Ys. Shortys or Tri-Ys will keep lower end torque which would be good paired with a dual plane intake. I prefer long tubes, I think they give the best exhaust note.
 
Edelbrock heads
Edelbrock dual plane intake
Comp Cam 31-422-8 (270-HR) Roller
289

ok imo, you will not gain enough power to feel with your particular set up. if you are looking for quicker acceleration you can achieve this by installing numerically higher gears.

you should have at least 3.40 gears with your set up otherwise it will be a bit of a slug off the line.

i would also use at least a 2000 rpm stall converter.

you will benefit from an msd 6al-2 box.

if your timing is less than around 12 at idle and around 34 at around 2600 - 2800 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected, i would try setting it to that.
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Thankks all. I will stay with the HiPo for now.

Barnett468: Thanks for other advice.
1. I run 3:55 gears
2. I have an extra aod converter (Hughes). Can you explain therpm/stall converter thing?
3. 6AL box; What does one actually gain from the 6AL box?
 
Thankks all. I will stay with the HiPo for now.

Barnett468: Thanks for other advice.
1. I run 3:55 gears
2. I have an extra aod converter (Hughes). Can you explain therpm/stall converter thing?
3. 6AL box; What does one actually gain from the 6AL box?

no prob, you're welcome.

if a stall is 2000 rpm for example, the converter will rev to that rpm before it accelerates if you floor the car. if you taje off nirmally it will accelerate much sooner than that and will be fully engaged sooner. it will also go into "neutral" or disengage at a higher rpm when you let off the gas so you will loose engine braking sooner. look for "tci converter stall" on youtube.com. it helps explain it.
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Thanks. Any thougts on the 6AL?

Hello;

Sorry I forgot that, all the 6 boxes increase coil voltage and have multi spark until around 3500 rpm. They are very helpful on some cars but it depends on how they are tuned. The better the tune and smaller the cam the less benefit they are. i would use one on a high perf build just for insurance, I don’t see how one can possibly hurt. You can also run leaner than normal wit one and they can increase hp and tq on some engines. If you do not need a rev limiter just but the plain 6 box for $200.00 from summit.