Fox Lets Talk K-member

Reverse was not available when I got my kit. I am running 3/4" forward offset ( forgot the name) 18x9 255/45/18
You can see they are forward in this picture. I did have some minor rubbing so I made some home made fender spreaders.
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Thanks! MM tech guy said had to for 1.5 and probably the 3/4. Tru Forge looks like? They sit real nice in the pic. So you thinking reverse then is best to start out with?
 
I have the reverse offset arms for the same reason Grover mentioned. A street toy won't see the benefit of a longer wheelbase. I run 18x8 up front with 235 tires. I went more narrow so I didnt have to deal with rubbing. I don't have fender liners yet, but no rubbing to speak of now.
 
I think Im gonna run Saleen SC 17/8 and 17/9 initially, I love the SC in chrome. I like the look of your Mach5s and how they sit Scott glad I get an idea of the reverse offset, Thanks!
 
id go UPR... we just smashed the front end of the 3200lbs turbo car down from just about sitting on the rear bumper and the only thing that didnt survive was the CC plates. if it can take that kind of hit its good enough for street driving
 
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I currently use and have had in the past UPR K members on street driven vehicles. I drive hard and have never had an issue. With the way K members in general are made now I doubt you'll ever have an issue with one short of running into a wall. It surely just comes down to brand preference, I'd bet you couldn't tell much of a difference in a 'blind taste test.'
 
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I'm not going to take someone else's experiences over mine. I've never had an issue with them in all of my direct dealings and will continue to buy from them.

The company I ordered my e-fan controller from a week ago and have not heard a peep from is a different story, however.
 
Installing a K member can be expensive and time consuming.
In most cases here it just isn't worthwhile or necessary and is a total waste of time and money. Dropping 50 lbs or whatever it is, is certainly not a cost effective way of going faster at $700+. Imagine what that 700 bucks could buy for better engine parts.
Not saying don't ever do it, but you should be out of other more sensible mods first.

When it comes to a modular swap it makes sense. Clearance and making the engine just drop right in make your life alot easier.

There really is only is 1 company that is a sure bet for fit, quality and support that would be MM (not sure if griggs does swap k's but i trust them too).
The OP is probably spending 15 grand plus on this project.
Might as well economize with the best, you really don't want to install one more than once. So debating the rest of them is kinda a moot point.
 
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