Ass Wag

All the basics have been hit. Tires, Suspension, Diff. On a 79-95 Mustang, anything which hasn't been upgraded already is certainly due for an upgrade/restomod.
Yeah I get that part but where does one start? If one was to just replace the lowers would there be enough of a difference there to justify the money? I'm looking to do other things becides just straight line acceleration and I'm not trying to go to wild either. I'd like to have a street csr that des "fair enough" in all handling catagories without beating me to death.
 
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Maximum Motorsports,UPR,TeamZ,etc are very good products. Obviously good tires will help.
I've been researching rear suspension stuff off and on for a while now so I'm fairly familiar w all the brands out there, there sure is a price gap between the top and the bottom (yes I know "American made ect") But anyway where it gets confusing is reading all the forum posts, so many opinions and such. A set off MM uppers and lowers prob aren't going to happen due to cost and I'm a little gun-shy about the sve, sr, etc, etc, based on price and the "word in the street" about how they bind and tear up torque boxes and such. However, there aren't too many reviews from people who've actually used them, most of the replies for said product usually read something like, "I have maximum motor they're american made, don't buy that Chinese junk." Then there are the brands that claim one should use there's due to the patented no bind bushings. I sorta had a plan and that plan was to buy a set of "non binding lowers" and replacing the bushings in the uppers w new rubber. But I don't know if its worth the hassle of getting the old arms out and then getting the old bushings out and then pressing the new ones in. I'd probably have a shop do it so then I have to figure in labor for all that just for rubber bushings in the same old arms.
So what's the best bang for the buck rear suspension set up for a street cruiser? The clutch will never be dumped at 5k rpms and I won't be taking hairpin's at 90.
 
I installed some stock style replacement arms/bushings on a previous car. They sucked. This car had eibach springs in it when I purchased it with stock everything else. It rode like crap. Bump steer was terrible. Ride was harsh and it was fairly squirrely when under power. I installed mm lca,UPR bumpsteer kit,eibach struts and shocks,mm c+c plates,new tires and got it aligned. All at one time. It was night and day better. The car is very stable in curves and responded descently at the strip. Ride is a little stiffer than stock. I've got all new suspension from TeamZ sitting in the garage that Ive yet to install. It's a street/strip setup with coil overs. I did swap out to strange adj struts and shocks which were an improvement over the eibachs. I'm pushing maybe 215-220rwhp n/a with an occasional nitrous pass at strip. Even with the bottle my car isn't spinning tires through the gears on the street. Well in 1-2 it does with a good chirp for 3rd;)
 
One other thing I highly recommend is to stiffen up the chassis with sub-frame connectors. If you don't already have them, get them and have them welded on.
I have these:http://images-ftp.americanmuscle.com/common/pages/modal-viewer.php?sku=56220&name=BBK%20Bolt-On%20Subframe%20Connectors%20w/%20Seat%20Supports%20(79-93%20All)&thumbs=56220,56220_alt1,56220_alt2,56220_alt3&selectedImg=56220?$s7product$

They're bolt on, but we welded them on my car. Solid as a rock! They really stiffened up my "rubbermaid" vert.
 
One other thing I highly recommend is to stiffen up the chassis with sub-frame connectors. If you don't already have them, get them and have them welded on.
I have these:http://images-ftp.americanmuscle.com/common/pages/modal-viewer.php?sku=56220&name=BBK%20Bolt-On%20Subframe%20Connectors%20w/%20Seat%20Supports%20(79-93%20All)&thumbs=56220,56220_alt1,56220_alt2,56220_alt3&selectedImg=56220?$s7product$

They're bolt on, but we welded them on my car. Solid as a rock! They really stiffened up my "rubbermaid" vert.
I have a set of the sve standard length weld ins actually. They helped.
 
$280 inexpensive that is
NAAH, I don't care what others say. Unless you are an avid drag racer constantly testing the limits of chassis parts with big power and slicks everyday you don't have to spend that kind of money for control arms.

I had these on my SSC for 10 years, and the new owner is still running them. Far superior over stock but will not break the bank. My SSC made 440 to the tires and I never had one problem with them on the street on street tires. They're are nearly identical to the SVE's I posted earlier that I have on my vert. (Probably made by the same factory in China). Just simple welded steel tubing, greasable polyurathane bushings, just like the big name control arms. With these, no big name to pay for.
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/chassis/controlarms/dt1430.html

Hey, what can I say? I'm cheap, and I've learned that cheap works on some things and others no.
 
NAAH, I don't care what others say. Unless you are an avid drag racer constantly testing the limits of chassis parts with big power and slicks everyday you don't have to spend that kind of money for control arms.

I had these on my SSC for 10 years, and the new owner is still running them. Far superior over stock but will not break the bank. My SSC made 440 to the tires and I never had one problem with them on the street on street tires. They're are nearly identical to the SVE's I posted earlier that I have on my vert. (Probably made by the same factory in China). Just simple welded steel tubing, greasable polyurathane bushings, just like the big name control arms. With these, no big name to pay for.
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/chassis/controlarms/dt1430.html

Hey, what can I say? I'm cheap, and I've learned that cheap works on some things and others no.
You're speaking my language.