Rear Control Arm Install Difficulty Level Laying On Your Back?

Don't get too worked up about being too technical with brand, type, and bushing material. Any aftermarket name brand controller is going to be a huge step up.

Kurt
 
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I've done it on my back. Wasn't a huge deal. In fact i took the entire rear axle off on my back.

You'll need 6 jackstands. 4 for the car under the 4 corners of the main passenger area, and then 2 for the axle itself. Then i used a jack to help position and hold the axle.

Wasn't too difficult. I even did my AOD-to-T5 conversion on my back with the car on jackstands...alone...without a transmission jack.

Innovation is key ;)
 
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Mike, be sure the torque box side bushings are factory rubber style, Not urethane. On the Axle side urethane is good. This will help with wheel hop and not cause noise/vibration or tear torque boxes. You can find them cheap at NPD.

Unless you're going MM heavy duty LCA's, which are designed stronger and rubber/urethane like above .... the rubber/urethane replacements are your best bet...
Hmm...perhaps this explains my newfound vibrations in 5th gear... :(
 
Not going to get into which brand other than to say I run MM lower control arms with stock uppers with rubber bushings into the 11's on 2 cars. You want some deflection in the uppers on a street car. Do not getlower or upper arms with poly bushings on both ends as they cause binding and tear up torque boxes.

If you plan on replacing worn upper control arm bushings, spend the $30 and get the MM bushing removal tool. Buy new control arm bolts. While the old arms are out, inspect your torque boxes for damage and repair them before replacing the arms. If they are intact, I'd hit them up with a good primer and rustoleum.
 
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After reading this thread, I think I'll just do the lowers and skip the uppers. The stock upper bushings look ok but the upper bolts at the axle connection look rusty. They look like sawzall candidates for sure.
 
So far so good. I found a little time to work on it this evening. I decided to do both uppers and lowers. I've got one side done. So far, no seized bolts. However, the rear bolt for the passenger side lower is corroded and the shank is pitted and narrowed significantly. That bolt will be replaced. The rubber bushings in the rear uppers look good so they are being left in. The rest of the bushings are eurothane.
 
Are the UPR bolt in tq box reinforcements worth installing while I'm doing this control arm swap? My factory boxes are not corroded and in good shape currently. Not planning on ever running slicks but surely some spirited street driving.
 
Are the UPR bolt in tq box reinforcements worth installing while I'm doing this control arm swap? My factory boxes are not corroded and in good shape currently. Not planning on ever running slicks but surely some spirited street driving.
While it's not 100% necessary I recomend that you do. Especially considering you're already under there and upgrading. Good foundation for added piece of mind. I put it off in my car and haven't had any issues but have purchased them to do this winter/spring.
 
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Are the UPR bolt in tq box reinforcements worth installing while I'm doing this control arm swap? My factory boxes are not corroded and in good shape currently. Not planning on ever running slicks but surely some spirited street driving.

Exactly what @A5literMan said. Not necessary, but totally recommended- especially since you're already under there installing the arms. The 10% discount code for Stangnet is Forum15.
 
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With the spongey stock control arms gone and the ridgid aftermarket ones in place, it's reasonable to think that the connection points at the body will be getting more stress. After all, it's the weak stock control arms that absorb the shock and abuse of hard shifting and launching.

Beefing up the tq boxes is surely a good idea.
 
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With the spongey stock control arms gone and the ridgid aftermarket ones in place, it's reasonable to think that the connection points at the body will be getting more stress. After all, it's the weak stock control arms that absorb the shock and abuse of hard shifting and launching.

Beefing up the tq boxes is surely a good idea.
Did you get em in? On a scale of horrible to not too bad how was it? How many jack stands did you use?
Exactly what @A5literMan said. Not necessary, but totally recommended- especially since you're already under there installing the arms. The 10% discount code for Stangnet is Forum15.
does that code change or can I put it in my back pocket?
 
I've done it on my back. Wasn't a huge deal. In fact i took the entire rear axle off on my back.

You'll need 6 jackstands. 4 for the car under the 4 corners of the main passenger area, and then 2 for the axle itself. Then i used a jack to help position and hold the axle.

Wasn't too difficult. I even did my AOD-to-T5 conversion on my back with the car on jackstands...alone...without a transmission jack.

Innovation is key ;)

This is how i do mine, front end on either jackstands or ramps, 2 jackstands under the torque boxes, then remove the springs, and after that put the axle on the jackstands. From there take the jack and put it right under the pumpkin and use that to rotate the axle back up if needed. The first time is always the worst but just take your time and you will be fine.