What Is That Canister For In The Pass Side Front
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Plugging up the line is a no no as that is how your tank vents excess gas fumes. Leave it intact unless you want to vent raw gas fumes into the air, and if you park your car in a garage, it will stink that up when you park it overnight. The cannister takes away 0 hp and removing it will throw off codes.
Code 85 CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing.
Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.
Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.
If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.
Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?
The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.
The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.
Purge valve solenoid:
The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.
Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.
If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.
Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?
The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.
The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.
Purge valve solenoid:
The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
Why does everyone just want to yank crap off?
If it wasn't important, Ford wouldn't have put it there
If it wasn't important, Ford wouldn't have put it there
The coolant line are to prevent icing of the throttle body and sticking of the throttle butterfly during cold, damp weather. Any time there is a pressure drop where there is a gas flowing (air, Freon, refrigerant ,etc.) there is a temperature drop that goes along with it.Yeah! Like the coolant tap for the throttle body!
If you ever piloted, or worked on the engines of a piston engine aircraft, you would have familiarized yourself with the carburetor heat control. It is there to prevent icing of the throttle butterfly on an engine at low power or decelerating.
I make every effort to keep my Mustang well below 15,000 feet.
I've lived in some pretty cold climates (-47 @ 20- knots was one of the coldest). The lack of that bypass never showed me symptoms of any kind. I ran an 80mm TB and spacer that had no coolant provision.
I defer to
Ford is cheap and if they could have saved some $$ by not including it in the package they would have done it. The later models used a different upper intake without the coolant passages.
Throttle Ice. This is the most common, earliest to show and most serious carburetor icing. It is formed at or near a partly closed throttle valve (sometimes called the “butterfly valve”). The water vapor in the induction air condenses and freezes due to the venturi effect cooling the air as it passes the throttle valve. Since the temperature drop is usually around 3°C, the optimum temperature for forming throttle ice is between 0°C to +3°C although a combination of fuel and throttle ice could occur at higher ambient temperatures.
See Piston Engine Induction Icing - SKYbrary Aviation Safety for more information.
High humidity seems to be the key factor for icing. Very cold air does not hold much humidity.
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Ford is cheap and if they could have saved some $$ by not including it in the package they would have done it. The later models used a different upper intake without the coolant passages.
Throttle Ice. This is the most common, earliest to show and most serious carburetor icing. It is formed at or near a partly closed throttle valve (sometimes called the “butterfly valve”). The water vapor in the induction air condenses and freezes due to the venturi effect cooling the air as it passes the throttle valve. Since the temperature drop is usually around 3°C, the optimum temperature for forming throttle ice is between 0°C to +3°C although a combination of fuel and throttle ice could occur at higher ambient temperatures.
See Piston Engine Induction Icing - SKYbrary Aviation Safety for more information.
High humidity seems to be the key factor for icing. Very cold air does not hold much humidity.
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I think that's one that could have been left out. I've not seen a shred of evidence that suggests that the OEM TB coolant arrangement was necessary. No even at Anchorage or Eilson.
I think they could have saved their money there. hehe
Ford might be cheap but that's not really evidence that every bell and whistle was necessity.
Returning to the charcoal canister? Yeah... I still have mine. I don't appreciate the raw fuel smell that you get without it. Of course, I still run cats too (although 3-way).
I think they could have saved their money there. hehe
Ford might be cheap but that's not really evidence that every bell and whistle was necessity.
Returning to the charcoal canister? Yeah... I still have mine. I don't appreciate the raw fuel smell that you get without it. Of course, I still run cats too (although 3-way).
Agree 100%
It's like some of them believe they've got to make their car run like garbage, smell like ass and get lousy fuel mileage in order to make it perform.
And their favorite response when you tell them why they shouldn't do it, is "Hey, if you want mileage, buy a Prius....this is a Mustang."
To that I say BULL
!!! If you're telling me there isn't a way to get the desired performance, while retaining mileage, emmisions and creature comforts, then quite frankly, you've done nothing more than convince me that you don't know what you're doing!There is nearly zero advantage to removing the A/C, the charcoal canister, the EGR system or the pollution systems on these cars. The weight you save will never be realized on anything but a scale and you've effectively made you car perform worse, by doing so. I'd like to think they do it because they don't know any better, but there are dozens of reasons why it's not a good idea and people still fool themselves into thinking its the right thing to do.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
When you are drag racing, do you have your A/C on? If not, what hp is it robbing?
I removed my charcoal canister so I could mount/hide my Mr. Freeze "methanol/water injection" reservoir in its place directly under the blower. 
Shhh, don't tell anyone my secret. LOL
I tucked the unplugged end of the vent line from the gas tank into a hole in the frame rail.
Funny, I've never smelled fuel.
Shhh, don't tell anyone my secret. LOLI tucked the unplugged end of the vent line from the gas tank into a hole in the frame rail.
Funny, I've never smelled fuel.
I removed my charcoal canister so I could mount/hide my Mr. Freeze "methanol/water injection" reservoir in its place directly under the blower.
I tucked the unplugged end of the vent line from the gas tank into a hole in the frame rail.
Funny, I've never smelled fuel.
Not sure if serious.
