Some Help/new Owner Here

trufflebutter

New Member
Apr 16, 2015
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Well hello all..
Finally bought my '01 GT yesterday.. Still in shock really.. Yet I do have a couple questions/possible concerns..
So I'll get to it

I have done a brief search but...
How can you turn off the fog lights? Every time I hit the button they just stay on... And this is the same with the traction control as well.. I am a new owner like it said so I may not be doing another step needed in order to turn off these...?

Than.. Not sure if this is just a mustang thing or.. But is the clutch supposed to be harder than normal clutches..? Shifting into gear is a "good mission" for me at the moment and I am just wondering if this is a mustang thing since they are to take on this mass amounts of power... Or.. If I need a new one.. Lol.. :/

I do also have an older '92 BMW, 5-speed.. And that does not feel nor is not half as hard to shift and clutch in as this.

I bought her off a dealer.. So everything did seem nice and legit. Clean Carfax and clean all around car. Yet, the clutch/shifting just has me wondering a few things at the moment. So I though I would come to a good place to ask and hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction.
Thanks!
 
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Well hello all..
Finally bought my '01 GT yesterday.. Still in shock really.. Yet I do have a couple questions/possible concerns..
So I'll get to it

I have done a brief search but...
How can you turn off the fog lights? Every time I hit the button they just stay on... And this is the same with the traction control as well.. I am a new owner like it said so I may not be doing another step needed in order to turn off these...?

Than.. Not sure if this is just a mustang thing or.. But is the clutch supposed to be harder than normal clutches..? Shifting into gear is a "good mission" for me at the moment and I am just wondering if this is a mustang thing since they are to take on this mass amounts of power... Or.. If I need a new one.. Lol.. :/

I do also have an older '92 BMW, 5-speed.. And that does not feel nor is not half as hard to shift and clutch in as this.

I bought her off a dealer.. So everything did seem nice and legit. Clean Carfax and clean all around car. Yet, the clutch/shifting just has me wondering a few things at the moment. So I though I would come to a good place to ask and hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction.
Thanks!

Congrats on the purchase!


With the buttons not turning off and on, they may need to be replaced. If you don't care to ever have the fog lights on, then just disconnect the switch! All the trim simply snaps out, however use caution and be gentle as you don't want to break any clips or guide dowels. The buttons simply push out if you are replacing them, and there is a "spring" retaining clip that holds the connector into the button. Be aware that if you disconnect the connector for traction control, then it will leave the traction control on 100% of the time. Attempts to do a burn out will create much smoke from under the hood and your clutch will be toast! The connector to the fog lights will leave them off all the time until a replacement switch is installed.


Your BMW has a hydraulic clutch, your Mustang does not. Yes it will be a harder clutch to disengage...however it shouldn't be hard to shift unless you are not fully disengaging the clutch....if that is the case, move your seat up. If the clutch slips quite a bit then it is time for a replacement. This is easily identified by a revving engine with little forward progress.

The clutch is a common wear item in a Mustang and will need to be replaced periodically. If you have any mechanical experience or know how, familiarize yourself with the process, otherwise you will be paying Ford 90 bucks an hour.

Best of Luck and welcome into the fold!
 
As far as the clutch goes, how many miles on the car assuming the clutch has never been replaced and is OE then something as easy as a new clutch cable could be all that is needed help save your knee. My car seemingly overnight got a stiff clutch that was normally pretty easy going in which case I replaced everything possible from the clutch quadrant to the clutch, fork and pivot ball. In my case it was a severely galled clutch fork pivot ball and socket on the fork. Operation is a smooth as silk and to me it feels as good as a hydraulic operated clutch.

If you have some cash to toss around you could just buy the Mccloud hydraulic conversion kit made just for the Mustang,
 
Thanks a lot TeamCaffeineGT, I'll definitely be looking more into it.. My ABS light is also always on now as well.. Thinking maybe a bad sensor...?

1987stangman and Billy Thompson
There's about 76k on her now. From the reports it may seem like it has never been done.. Yet for as stiff as it is.. The "dealer" assumed it could have been a performance clutch.. I'm still debating all this.. Yet the engagement is super light and will with very little let-off.. So maybe, hopefully, it will be something as little as the cable..

But thanks guys thus far!
 
These cars don't have a hydraulic clutch so they're going to be a little stiff compared to most modern vehicles. Just about anyone whose pushed the clutch in on my car has commented on how "stiff" the clutch pedal feels to them compared to X. It's something you'll get used to in time & if you don't you can always look into the aforementioned hydraulic conversion kit from Mcleod but you will pay for it $$$.
 
Ya, it just seems way more stiff/harder than I expected I suppose (no pun intended). Just going to suck as a daily until i get use to it.
I did take it into Ford today and one of the service guys said it felt normal.. Yet there is also a noise coming from it when I push it in.. He didnt hear that while I was there with him of course. So I'm thinking that may just be/need an adjustment of sorts..
I hope.
 
That noise you're hearing when you push in the clutch pedal is the INFAMOUS Ford TOB (Throw Out Bearing/clutch release bearing). These cars & other Fords are well known for having noisy/whiney TOB's, it was a huge ordeal when our Mustangs were new. I suggest you just get used to the noise unless you feel like dropping the entire Transmission to replace a $30 part. Do a search on Stangnet to get yourself up to speed on the topic and maybe weigh your options. FRPP makes a heavy duty TOB that is far superior to the factory part & will solve the annoying sounds but like I said before it's quite costly if you pay a shop to do it. Most folks simply replace it with the better part when it's time for a new clutch.
 
I would get a new OEM non adjustable cable and a new quadrant and firewall adjuster too. I installed UPR's newer quadrant (tripple hook) and firewall adjuster when I did my clutch job but there are a lot of other brands too.
 
This noise is more coming from the actual pedal when I just step it in.. Like... A creaking noise..? Makes me think that a cable adjustment is needed..?
My older bimmer has that throw-out bearing noise/chattering.. I may be also hearing somewhat of that but its not horrible just yet.

Than, while downshifting, hearing a big amount of noise from the front, that being all the power from the torque I'm assuming.....

I'm just not used to these cars yet.. So forgive me if I seem.... Highly retarded.
I'm just used to a diff type of car/transmission
 
It could be a combo of cable and plastic quadrant. Replace all with a maximum motor sports set up and don't look back. Yes it's more expensive but spend the money right the first time. Stay away from any adjustable cables. Use the MM set up with the cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster.

It will feel better than new.
 
Well a little update...
Decided to just bite the bullet and take her into Ford on Tuesday.. Left her over night.. Issues ended up being the cable was binding so I guess it just needed some attention and lubing. Feels a lot better than it did and now I won't have a hulk looking of a left leg after driving her.
Also had a noise from the motor so needed some pulleys and belts too.. Nearly $500 later.. And I'm back on track.

Thanks for all the help though. I will still be considering the clutch packages that were mentioned.

For now.....
Need to decided what exhaust I want........
And intake.. And springs.. Lol
 
Well.. They also adjusted the clutch/lubed it.. Than it was a nasty amount just to "look" at it prior and see what was needed.. Than, they did the clutch and pulleys.. Labor.. Yada yada..

I knew it would have been a killer on my pockets.. But I wanted it done right and wanted to know what was really going on. But yah, I know I would have saved prolly half that.. Lol..
 
So here's this now...

Clutch pedal has went back to the point where I'll almost have to step it to the ground to engage and slightly lift off to release the engagement.

Also.. While shifting, there sometimes is a struggle to actually shift into gear. Not sure if these two are together as an issue......

Or if the clutch is the cause..

I'm hoping not the actual transmission.

Ford already "fixed" that issue with the clutch and it "binding..." Seems like its binding again.

Any ideas? :/
 
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So here's this now...

Clutch pedal has went back to the point where I'll almost have to step it to the ground to engage and slightly lift off to release the engagement.

Also.. While shifting, there sometimes is a struggle to actually shift into gear. Not sure if these two are together as an issue......

Or if the clutch is the cause..

I'm hoping not the actual transmission.

Ford already "fixed" that issue with the clutch and it "binding..." Seems like its binding again.

Any ideas? :/


I hate to be that guy, but it does sound like low fluids. You might new to bleed the clutch, that could fix your problems. If it were me, thats where i would start.
 
As it has been pointed out a few times here it's a mechanical clutch so there is no "bleeding".

Yes the low engagement and the ability to enter a gear go together. Look at the point where the clutch cable comes thru the firewall and trace it down to the clutch fork. Make sure it is a smooth run from top to bottom. Any bind in the cable could cause an issue. Look at the top of the clutch pedal to see if all the connections there look good. Pull on the cable and see if there is any slack.
 
So was checked and it's looking like the pressure plate is the issue.. The springs inside are causing binding.. Was also said the cable is in good shape.

Would/could/does this make possible sense for my issue?