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There are plenty of guys out there that could write you a map to get the engine running. I don't know who they are, but they're out threre. DIY auto tune probably has some people that could help you. I'd say it's worth whatever they would charge you. My dumb oversight in my tune cost me a $2k rebuild.
I'd be on the phone with Matt Cramer for sure. He's gonna tell you to go to the forums, but I think this is a special case and could use special attention.

Matt Cramer has my tune file as we speak. I looked at it again this morning, and all of the tuning tables are greyed out, so there is definitely something amiss. I also tried to check cranking timing w/ a remote starter and even though I got the light to flash, I couldn't tell jack as to whether or not it was even on the timing scale. I do know that even with the whiff of gas that the engine is getting, the engine tried to start (fuel pump was disabled during the timing check). Hopefully, he'll get the file back to me before the 12th of never so that I can move on with it.

In other remote issues, the fuel pump sounds like it's cavitating, and sounds like it's pumping air. When I first set base fuel pressure it sounded like it was possibly clogged (although that can't be, there has always been a 100 micron prefilter, and a 10 micron post filter from the day it was installed.)There is currently 5 gals of gas in the tank now but something's not quite right there either, and I know that that is a bad thing. The damn drain fitting that goes into the pwr steering pump from the remote reservoir is leaking as well.
 
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Do what was recommended to me and loosen up the spark plugs to check cranking timing. Make sure your injectors are disconnected as well. I wasn't able to read the balancer until the engine could turn over fast enough with the plugs loosened.

I personally wouldn't go any further with starting the car until the cranking timing is verified to be accurate. That's based on what I just learned over the past few days. I'm lucky my headers didn't start glowing from my timing being so retarded when I tried to start the engine.
 
Betcha wonder what I've been doing?


Nothin.

For the last three days, I've been meticulously combing over all of the settings, and configurations as I prep this thing for it's first start.

Even after all of that, come day three (today) I'm missing something in Tunerstudio that allows me to see, and interact w/ the fuel and spark tables. I contact the guys at DIY auto tune, and they have me send them a copy of my tune file. After a few hours, I call back, and the guy that answers (Matt Cramer) hasn't even looked at it. But while I'm on the phone, he does, and just that quickly, points me to open this, click on that, disable this, and BOOM! the AFR, VE, and spark tables materialize. He tells me that no existing tune exists for my goofy assed engine combination, so I'm going have to have the wizard auto-generate a starting recommendation, and go from there.

Whoop de doo. I'm still not far from where I was two minutes ago.

But I hang up the phone, and do as he says. Then I try to start it..................................................

Nothing except a backfire through the muffler.
(With the neighbors house directly behind the garage, the shotgun loud backfire probably had the guy thinking I just put an end to my misery, 12 gauge style.)

But I didn't.

Not knowing where to go from there, I pulled a plug.

Wet. Too much fuel, or no spark. ( I know I have spark, it was one of my "tests") So,...that brings me back to too much fuel.

I don't know how to change that. I try again. POW!. another shotgun blast. (Clearly, I hadn't shot myself before,......maybe this time)

I disconnect the fuse to the fuel pump, and crank the engine clean.

It acts like it wants to start. definitely has too much fuel.

Or maybe it's somethin to do w/ the firing order. I remove all of the plugs, and crank the engine so it'll spin fast enough to see if the timing light will show me anything.

The timing mark is nowhere in sight,...definitely something wrong w/ the firing order.

Lets look back at an old pic again shall we?
78FEBD86-77F7-4800-92A2-F2C349B34ABD_zpspyrvchhu.jpg


How many times do you spose I've looked at the front of my engine, and the sensor mounting that is depicted front and center?

In addition to that pic, I probably rambled on about how it had to be precisely 6 teeth away from the missing tooth. When you look at the pic, it looks like everything is perfect right? It wasn't. The engine wasn't at TDC. It ended up being one tooth off.

That required a butchering of the sensor, because there wasn't enough room to move it backwards, and shifting the trigger wheel was definitely out, (it's screwed to the back side of the balancer, and the gap machined in place. I had to move the sensor.

I did.

I checked timing.

The mark was nowhere in sight.

It's gotta be something else.

Earlier on here I bitched about the EDIS coil pack w/ regard to wiring the plug wires. I had ordered a cut to length custom set for that stupid coil pack and wanted to be sure that I wired the plug wires in the correct order.

This pic is everywhere online:

coil_order_v2_zps3oe0dlaa.jpg


The reason I was concerned, was that there were also a few pics out there showing the same order but w/ the 4 pin connector on top, instead of the bottom.
That would effectively change 1, and 6 and 2, and 5 depending on whether or not the connector was up or down.

I chose to wire the thing the way it was most commonly wired.

But , now knowing this, I take the connector clamp on my timing light off of plug wire #1,...and put it on plug wire #2. ( doesn't matter whether or not it was 2, or 5, they both get the same coil signal)

I check timing.

THERE THAT DAMN TIMING MARK IS..........DEAD STEADY AT TDC.

Dammit.

I cannot change the plug wiring order, and I cannot flip the coil pack. So I had to transpose the wires to coil 1, and 3.

I checked timing after that.......we're in business.

I contacted the guy that I bought my turbo from because he has a guy he refers for dyno tunes. This guy is supposed to be completely familiar w/ MSII. I texted him and asked if he could help me, he said he could. Supposed to call me tomorrow to arrange an appointment to fix me up.

Means I gotta clean the garage,......company's comin'.
 
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And as a funny footnote:.....

Nothing to do w/ the above, but if this guys knows as much about my engine as I think he does.....

xctasy
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I've seen engine combos like this in Aussie four door sedans. 550 thou lift with a great cylinder head and good induction and compression in a 4.0 to 4.3 liter I6 always makes just shy of 300 hp with embarrssing ease. Then theres torque, which is unexpectedly HUGE. About 20% more from off idle to 3500 rpm than a V8. 300 lb-ft. You add 12 pounds boost, and a little 250 becomes like a 454 big block. Or even a 460...

Lets see, base engine horsepower with that cam and head, and imagine it has a 9.7:1 compression ratio. That'd be 295 hp. Then, add 21.5 pounds boost, 730 hp.

So as not to be greedy, try 11 psi and with just a 1.75 boost ratio, you'll have 515 hp.


Your biggest problem is toning down the boost so you won't end up with more than 475 hp. 9 pounds outa do it




Here's hoping.
 
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Yeah well I was right to second guess myself. It's that stupid crap that keeps me awake at night. I just couldn't believe I would've pulled such a bonehead stunt as to completely miss an entire tooth on the trigger wheel. But in my frazzled attempt to get the thing to start, I started ignoring logic for any possible reason. I should've chk'd TDC but it guess it was easier to assume that the engine was there w/o doing that.

Now I gotta take my hacked up VR sensor, and my modified bkt and move it back to where it was before, only now that it's " modified" it won't fit there anymore.

"Do it twice Mike"
 
Yeah well I was right to second guess myself. It's that stupid crap that keeps me awake at night. I just couldn't believe I would've pulled such a bonehead stunt as to completely miss an entire tooth on the trigger wheel. But in my frazzled attempt to get the thing to start, I started ignoring logic for any possible reason. I should've chk'd TDC but it guess it was easier to assume that the engine was there w/o doing that.

Now I gotta take my hacked up VR sensor, and my modified bkt and move it back to where it was before, only now that it's " modified" it won't fit there anymore.

"Do it twice Mike"
At least you know exactly how to do it, since you did it right once before...
 
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Amazing things happen when they're wired correctly. With no other changes than switching the coil packs around, (and putting the crank position sensor back where it was originally...........it runs.

I only ran it for 10 seconds as there is no radiator again since I had to fix the crank sensor, but it ran. It's running on the tune that I thought was way too rich (again, "too rich" is all relative considering that there was no compression event in 4 of the six cylinders for the spark to light off) Once 1 and 6, and 2 and 5 swapped places, it seems that it might not be too rich after all.

I will tell you this: It doesn't sound like anything you've ever heard. It kind of Purrrrss..(especially if you roll that "R")

I have to install the radiator and fill it w/ water, and hope that that doesn't leak somewhere at one of the dozen connections that is my cooling system. And thinking that my tune was too rich, I messed w/ the AFR, and VE tables off line last night so I may have to just run the thing on the existing tune, and let it over-write the changes till I know more of how it's gonna run once I get it up to temp.

If I make it past that point where I can drain out water and retorque the head (fingers crossed) I'll be batting 1000.:banana:
 
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Awesome Mike. I'm sure you feel relieved to know it didn't self destruct. That's honestly quite an accomplishment considering how much custom fabrication went into that powertrain.
No sht. I was just thinking about that. To reiterate:
Sleeved, and partially filled block. Artificially " widened" to accommodate the difference in overhang on the head. Block completely cut open to allow access for 460 solid roller lifters. Mechanical custom , solid roller cam w/ SBF timing gear modified to fit. Crank modified to accommodate SBF crank gear. 56 link true roller chain sourced from some Toyota engine to tie both gears together. SBF harmonic balancer modified to fit. Australian head, modified to fit block, filled w/ BBC/SBC springs, valves, and rockers. SBC External oil pump, SBC external water pump, hand made intake, exhaust, and valve covers.

If it really does run longer than the time it takes to heat cycle the engine, I'll consider myself successful.
 
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Congratulations.

Although, I was expecting more of a long winded write-up chronicling the events leading up to the key turning. I'm curious, did it just.... start? Or did it take a few tries between tweaks and a few four letter words? Almost reads like you hit the key and it lit off. This is bewildering for me because in all of my experiences, it never happens like that, haha.
 
Congratulations.

Although, I was expecting more of a long winded write-up chronicling the events leading up to the key turning. I'm curious, did it just.... start? Or did it take a few tries between tweaks and a few four letter words? Almost reads like you hit the key and it lit off. This is bewildering for me because in all of my experiences, it never happens like that, haha.

Amazingly, if you remove the incorrectly wired coil it did. It literally fired w/ nothing more than a key turn. (of course it died immediately because I messed w/ the cranking pulsewidth before hand, thinking I was flooding it) I'll correct that later today when I get back home, I'm just gonna return everything back to the way it was originally in the initial fuel map, put the radiator in it, and run the thing up to temp. As for a vid of that, I'm thinking I prefer maybe to wait till it idles correctly, but who knows, once it gets above 150 degrees, maybe it will.
 
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Well, that is only a testament to your abilities, then. Especially the tedious "check, double check, and check again" gene which I seem to have been born without and have had to work to develop. Good deal!
 
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