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that-was-easy-o.gif
 
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I believe that the saying is" "Into every life, a little rain must fall."

In my case, it should be re-phrased.

Into every engine, the water that you pour into it will run back out,.......somewhere.

In my case, it's at the front of the engine. Most likely a water passage between the block, and head, that the head gasket isn't sealing. That water passage is a bypass for the T-stat housing. All I know is that it isn't a seeping leak, it's a dripping leak. Almost like it isn't even being properly sealed.

Talk about a buzz kill.

I'm gonna pull the T stat housing and see if I can see that water passage through the bottom. I'm actually entertaining the thought of attempting to block it by epoxying the hole closed. That'll mean that the head gasket might get "glued" to the deck there.

I'll tell you, If I have to tear the thing back apart to fix this, you can expect the next update to come from the Al. dept of corrections,...........

Cause I'm gonna kill something.:nonono:
 
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so, I guess the good thing about having all of these pictures stored somewhere is that I can look at stuff w/o actually having to tear it apart.


The seemingly bad thing is that there is definitely a head gasket water leak at the front of the engine.
A significant leak. (like there is a hole there matter of fact).

Water doesn't make it into the head itself, before it starts trickling out that hole.

So that prompts me to look at my pic library to see where that hole might be.

952f5894-cb38-42e7-a1c2-427382d0c2cd_zps1fdd003e.jpg


There's the hole all right, right next to the head stud hole upper right. Water is trickling out of that sucker just as if there was no sealant around it. (There might nor be).

But.......see the light through the hole?

temporary_zps2fb36446.jpg


Check out the big assed hole I can put my whole hand in there to fix it with.

So I can remove the WP block off plate, and goop that hole up from underneath. The question I have for you guys @84Ttop ,@mikestang63, @Boosted92LX, @2000xp8, @RacEoHolic330 is:

Which goop? The right stuff, or some two part epoxy "kneadable" putty?

The next question is that the engine has run a minute now. It definitely sounds different,....I'm worried that it might be too different. (say rock,rock,rock,rock to yourself in a gravely voice)

That's what it sounds like at 600 RPM under that valve cover.
 
so, I guess the good thing about having all of these pictures stored somewhere is that I can look at stuff w/o actually having to tear it apart.


The seemingly bad thing is that there is definitely a head gasket water leak at the front of the engine.
A significant leak. (like there is a hole there matter of fact).

Water doesn't make it into the head itself, before it starts trickling out that hole.

So that prompts me to look at my pic library to see where that hole might be.

952f5894-cb38-42e7-a1c2-427382d0c2cd_zps1fdd003e.jpg


There's the hole all right, right next to the head stud hole upper right. Water is trickling out of that sucker just as if there was no sealant around it. (There might nor be).

But.......see the light through the hole?

temporary_zps2fb36446.jpg


When I was in tech school we had a rep from Permatex speak. When asked about silicone sealant he said, "It's simple. Our silicone sealants are color coded. Red for high temp, blue for water, black for oil" Seems simple to me.

Check out the big assed hole I can put my whole hand in there to fix it with.

So I can remove the WP block off plate, and goop that hole up from underneath. The question I have for you guys @84Ttop ,@mikestang63, @Boosted92LX, @2000xp8, @RacEoHolic330 is:

Which goop? The right stuff, or some two part epoxy "kneadable" putty?

The next question is that the engine has run a minute now. It definitely sounds different,....I'm worried that it might be too different. (say rock,rock,rock,rock to yourself in a gravely voice)

That's what it sounds like at 600 RPM under that valve cover.
 
so, I guess the good thing about having all of these pictures stored somewhere is that I can look at stuff w/o actually having to tear it apart.


The seemingly bad thing is that there is definitely a head gasket water leak at the front of the engine.
A significant leak. (like there is a hole there matter of fact).

Water doesn't make it into the head itself, before it starts trickling out that hole.

So that prompts me to look at my pic library to see where that hole might be.

952f5894-cb38-42e7-a1c2-427382d0c2cd_zps1fdd003e.jpg


There's the hole all right, right next to the head stud hole upper right. Water is trickling out of that sucker just as if there was no sealant around it. (There might nor be).

But.......see the light through the hole?

temporary_zps2fb36446.jpg


Check out the big assed hole I can put my whole hand in there to fix it with.

So I can remove the WP block off plate, and goop that hole up from underneath. The question I have for you guys @84Ttop ,@mikestang63, @Boosted92LX, @2000xp8, @RacEoHolic330 is:

Which goop? The right stuff, or some two part epoxy "kneadable" putty?

The next question is that the engine has run a minute now. It definitely sounds different,....I'm worried that it might be too different. (say rock,rock,rock,rock to yourself in a gravely voice)

That's what it sounds like at 600 RPM under that valve cover.


Round two.. stoopid phone.

OK, In tech school we had a visit from a permatex rep. Not so common knowledge says silicone sealants are color coded, "Red for high temp, blue for water, black for oil." I'd say blue..
 
My vote would be for the two part epoxy "kneadable" putty.

Or even better, a closely fitting metal plug that you coat with epoxy and somehow get it driven up into place.
 
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My vote would be for the two part epoxy "kneadable" putty.

Or even better, a closely fitting metal plug that you coat with epoxy and somehow get it driven up into place.
I agree with this 100%, I would he concerned the right stuff wouldn't seal a crater under pressure. Ideally I would looks for a brass plug to press into the cavity and avoid any permanance while still sealing the leak
 
With the water pump out of the way, is there room to use an NPT tap? If so that is the way to go considering the temp and pressure involved with the cooling system. If not, then the brass plug that could be "press fit" in would be the next best thing, outside of removing the cylinder head.
 
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Round two.. stoopid phone.

OK, In tech school we had a visit from a permatex rep. Not so common knowledge says silicone sealants are color coded, "Red for high temp, blue for water, black for oil." I'd say blue..

Stand by.......

There isnt any type of compression or vac in that area is it...just water/circulation?

Just water under pressure.
My vote would be for the two part epoxy "kneadable" putty.

That's 1

Or even better, a closely fitting metal plug that you coat with epoxy and somehow get it driven up into place.

I agree with this 100%, I would he concerned the right stuff wouldn't seal a crater under pressure. Ideally I would looks for a brass plug to press into the cavity and avoid any permanance while still sealing the leak

With the water pump out of the way, is there room to use an NPT tap? If so that is the way to go considering the temp and pressure involved with the cooling system. If not, then the brass plug that could be "press fit" in would be the next best thing, outside of removing the cylinder head.

No, no way to get anything up there except your finger tip, Besides, a tap would ultimately hit the HG/head before any real threads could be created.


Is it time for the Chicken Dinner?

A freeze out plug wouldnt fit?....they come in all different sizes...then you could hit that use some sealant on that...

No, see above.

I'm a fan of a fitting with expoxy too, I never like to fill a whole with just a substance.

As listed above, no way to do anything except a sealant. I appreciate all of you guys and your input.

The winner was the two part epoxy stick like Collin pictured, workable for 15 minutes, and rock hard in an hour, (kinda like the "Viagra" of epoxies) it stopped that leak dead cold. I did take that opportunity to then fill the engine the rest of the way to see what other BS leaks were gonna appear.

Only one,.......May as well be the head gasket,.......( well almost)

temporary_zps63f4228c.jpg

Guess which one of the three hoses is barely dripping out of the fitting at the threads?

Why the rear one is of course. Just a little drip about every 10 secs or so,...needs another 1/4 turn, which can't be accomplished. Medusa is only about two inches away from there, and that hose will not allow any real change in it's angle. It looks like I'm gonna have to remove the starter, and I should have pretty decent access though. Problem is, there's a 3" down pipe now right next to that starter, and the 78 K member is built like a tank, w/ all kinds of additional stiffening that makes getting your hand up in there a real pain in the ass to even get that starter off, and out of there.

But, Why am I b itchin?......I don't have to pull the head, so nothing can be that bad.
 
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@madmike1157

Sorry for the lame reply this morning. I'm woking nights and was too zombied out to wrap my head around what you were asking for. The two part quicksteel was definitely the ticket! I'll try to do bettet next time, lol.
 
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