Tad And Tab Help

dz01

Member
Mar 31, 2005
274
10
19
Massachusetts
In my quest to clear my 41 and 91 codes, I've shifted focus to the smog system. I know some people have solved their lean code problems by addressing components of the smog system.

So here's what I did:

- History, been pulling codes 41 and 91 KOER. No codes with KOEO.
- Pulled vacuum lines from TAD (closest to fender), cleared codes, ran car, pulled codes again. No change- 41 and 91 still came up
- Plugged TAD lines back in, pulled TAB vacuum lines (closest to motor), cleared codes, ran car, pulled codes again....no 41 and 91!!! but did get 44 and 94 which I expected.

So, my questions are:

- Do I boldly say the TAB sensor is my problem? Lean codes went away right? Replace TAB and back in business?
- How do I know if the TAB and TAD vacuum lines were switched on my car from the previous owner? I say this because I would have guess a change pulling the TAD not the TAB.

On top of codes 41 and 91, I'm getting the bouncing idle, but only after car is completely warm and when coming to a stop, otherwise perfect. Another symptom that some have cured with smog system components.

Any thoughts?
 
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Lets start with how the Thermactor Air system works. Once you understand that, then understanding what you are seeing happen will be simpler and easier.

[Thermactor Air System
Some review of how it works...

Revised 26-Jun-2105 to clarify operation of TAB & TAD solenoids

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The air provided by the air pump serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. With a warm engine, the computer operates on closed loop mode, taking input from all the sensors.

The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the Bypass valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. This dumps the pump's output to the atmosphere, and reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The Bypass valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.

The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAD solenoid prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the Diverter control valve or air pump in case of a backfire.

Code 44 RH side air not functioning.
Code 94 LH side air not functioning.

How the O2 sensors affect the operation of the Thermactor Air System.
The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB), the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.


thermactor-air-system-65-gif.50636



Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System.
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid. The TAB and TAD solenoid are located on the passenger side shock strut tower. Uneducated owners sometimes remove them to get more HP. This does not work, it just causes 81 & 82 codes.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

Testing the system:

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

Theory of operation:
The Fox body Mustang catalytic converters consist of two different types of catalysts: Reduction and Oxidation.
The Reduction catalyst is the first converter in a 5.0 Mustang, and the Oxidation converter is the second converter. The Oxidation converter uses the extra air from the smog pump to burn the excess HC. Aftermarket converters that use the smog pump often combine both types of catalysts in one housing. Since all catalytic reactions depend on heat to happen, catalytic converters do not work as efficiently with long tube headers. The extra length of the long tubes reduces the heat available to operate the O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. That will cause emissions problems, and reduce the chances of passing an actual smog test.


Code 41 or 91. Or 43 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

Revised 11-Jan-2015 to add check for fuel pressure out of range

Code 41 is the passenger side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 91 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 172 is the passenger side sensor as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 176 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 43 is not side specific according to the Probst Ford Fuel injection book.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear.

Disconnect the O2 sensor from the harness and use the body side O2 sensor harness as the starting point for testing. Do not measure the resistance of the O2 sensor , you may damage it. Resistance measurements for the O2 sensor harness are made with one meter lead on the O2 sensor harness and the other meter lead on the computer wire or pin for the O2 sensor.

Backside view of the computer wiring connector:
a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.71316


87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (L\RH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (LH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a Gray/Lt blue wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a Red/Black wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer. Using the Low Ohms range (usually 200 Ohms) you should see less than 1.5 Ohms.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Dark blue/Lt green wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Dark blue/Lt green wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Dark Green/Pink wire on the computer pin 29

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 29

94-95 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 29 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 27 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 29
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 27

There is a connector between the body harness and the O2 sensor harness. Make sure the connectors are mated together, the contacts and wiring are not damaged and the contacts are clean and not coated with oil.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Check the fuel pressure – the fuel pressure is 37-41 PSI with the vacuum disconnected and the engine idling. Fuel pressure out of range can cause the 41 & 91 codes together. It will not cause a single code, only both codes together.

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

Code 41 can also be due to carbon plugging the driver’s side Thermactor air crossover tube on the back of the engine. The tube fills up with carbon and does not pass air to the driver’s side head ports. This puts an excess amount of air in the passenger side exhaust and can set the code 41. Remove the tube and clean it out so that both sides get good airflow: this may be more difficult than it sounds. You need something like a mini rotor-rooter to do the job because of the curves in the tube. Something like the outer spiral jacket of a flexible push-pull cable may be the thing that does the trick.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
 
10 mile test drive. Idle was great. No bouncing at stops at all. Weather was 68 and cool. Real test will be in hotter weather tomorrow.

Pulled codes again- still no 41 and 91, but I have 44 and 94.

This all points to me replacing the TAB. I'll probably do the TAD as well.
 
Check the crossover pipe connecting the pollution ports at the rear of the heads. They have a habit of plugging up with carbon over the years. This will also set off the codes in question. My advice (along with what was given by jrichker) would be to pull it off, and clean it out, then run the test again.
 
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Check the crossover pipe connecting the pollution ports at the rear of the heads. They have a habit of plugging up with carbon over the years. This will also set off the codes in question. My advice (along with what was given by jrichker) would be to pull it off, and clean it out, then run the test again.
Excellent advice, the first thing that I would recommend to do in the turning wrenches phase of your work.
 
The issue is lean codes. A plugged up crossover won't cause lean codes on both banks. The Smog codes he was getting were due to the unplugging of the TAB solenoid while trying to address codes 91 and 41.
That being said, if the Smog system is constantly dumping air into the heads, when the ECM is not commanding air to be sent to the heads, then yes it will cause lean codes to be logged.
 
The issue is lean codes. A plugged up crossover won't cause lean codes on both banks. The Smog codes he was getting were due to the unplugging of the TAB solenoid while trying to address codes 91 and 41.
That being said, if the Smog system is constantly dumping air into the heads, when the ECM is not commanding air to be sent to the heads, then yes it will cause lean codes to be logged.

Thanks! My thought too (although you explained it much better).
 
Here's an update. Drove for another 30 miles with TAB vacuum lines plugged (electric connection connected). Ran great. No idle surge or almost stalling out at lights. Ran codes and no 41 or 91 (still had 44 and 94 which is due to TAB lines not connected).

So, I picked up a new TAB sensor. Went to replace it and noticed the electric connection was different. Evidently, the TAB and TAD plugs are slightly different. Assuming this so you don't plug them in wrong. After a closer look, this was actually the TAD not the TAB I unplugged. So my TAB and TAD valve were swapped. Figured not a big deal location wise since you can't connect the electrical connections wrong due to different plugs. I then went to look at the vacuum lines and those were actually reversed! I check the path several times and how they are supposed to be connected. Definitely backwards.

So, I swapped the TAB/TAD, plugging in the correct vac lines.

Warmed car up and ran codes....no 41 or 91 which is great and no 44 or 94. I'm now getting code 46 which is the first check valve. Any thoughts? I guess I can replace, but would be nice to confirm that's definitely what I need to do.

I didn't drive the car yet so I'm not sure if the idle issues are back or not. I do know the car ran great with the TAD unplugged (not the TAB like I thought).
 
Code 46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working – Thermactor Air Injection - possible TAB valve not working or TAB solenoid stuck shut.
The Thermactor Air Bypass function dumps the output of the air pump to open air. It does this at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to reduce parasitic drag on the engine. It may also open at other times under computer control.

Testing procedure:
TAB valve: Disconnect the output hose from the TAB valve body. Start the engine and note that apply vacuum to the port on top of the valve. Note the change in airflow is felt at the output of the valve as vacuum is applied and then removed. No change in airflow and the TAB valve is stuck.

TAB vacuum supply:
With the engine running, feel vacuum or listen for sucking air on the TAB tubing that has been disconnected from the top of the TAB valve. There should be no vacuum at idle. Ground the white/red wire of the connector plugged into the TAB valve to the car body or engine block.
Caution! Do not ground the red wire; it is power for the solenoids and injectors. If you do you will make serious sparks and smoke
That should cause the valve to open and allow vacuum to be heard or felt at the tubing that is connected to the TAB solenoid valve.
 
Code 46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working – Thermactor Air Injection - possible TAB valve not working or TAB solenoid stuck shut.
The Thermactor Air Bypass function dumps the output of the air pump to open air. It does this at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to reduce parasitic drag on the engine. It may also open at other times under computer control.

Testing procedure:
TAB valve: Disconnect the output hose from the TAB valve body. Start the engine and note that apply vacuum to the port on top of the valve. Note the change in airflow is felt at the output of the valve as vacuum is applied and then removed. No change in airflow and the TAB valve is stuck.

TAB vacuum supply:
With the engine running, feel vacuum or listen for sucking air on the TAB tubing that has been disconnected from the top of the TAB valve. There should be no vacuum at idle. Ground the white/red wire of the connector plugged into the TAB valve to the car body or engine block.
Caution! Do not ground the red wire; it is power for the solenoids and injectors. If you do you will make serious sparks and smoke
That should cause the valve to open and allow vacuum to be heard or felt at the tubing that is connected to the TAB solenoid valve.

Thanks!!!
 
Code 46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working – Thermactor Air Injection - possible TAB valve not working or TAB solenoid stuck shut.
The Thermactor Air Bypass function dumps the output of the air pump to open air. It does this at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to reduce parasitic drag on the engine. It may also open at other times under computer control.

Testing procedure:
TAB valve: Disconnect the output hose from the TAB valve body. Start the engine and note that apply vacuum to the port on top of the valve. Note the change in airflow is felt at the output of the valve as vacuum is applied and then removed. No change in airflow and the TAB valve is stuck.

TAB vacuum supply:
With the engine running, feel vacuum or listen for sucking air on the TAB tubing that has been disconnected from the top of the TAB valve. There should be no vacuum at idle. Ground the white/red wire of the connector plugged into the TAB valve to the car body or engine block.
Caution! Do not ground the red wire; it is power for the solenoids and injectors. If you do you will make serious sparks and smoke
That should cause the valve to open and allow vacuum to be heard or felt at the tubing that is connected to the TAB solenoid valve.

I guess the air bypass valve could also be not working. Start messing around with it again this week.
 
Quick update:

I tested the air bypass valve on the other side of the smog pump. With vacuum line connected, good air flow through the valve. Will vacuum line disconnected, no air through the valve, but air could be felt coming out the bottom (to the atmosphere).

TAB/TAD checked are are working properly (and are new). Although, what causes the vac line to turn on and off? Cold/hot engine? While running my valve test, at one point no vac was coming out of the vac line from the TAB to the air bypass valve- in other words, TAB shut flow off. Not sure what triggers the on/off?

All my vac lines have recently been replaced and seem in good shape.

Still seeing code 46 KOER. It just dawned on me I only ran KOER not KOEO. I can do that later.

I can get my hands on another air bypass valve to swap them out, but I don't think that's my problem.
 
The computer controls the TAB & TAD solenoid valves.

Your bypass valve seems to have tested good.

Go back and carefully read my post on Thermactor Air System. In it are instructions on how to test the TAB & TAD solenoids.
 
Sorry, I should have been more specific. What tells the computer to open/close the TAB/TAD solenoids, O2 sensors?

TAB/TAD tested good..getting power and opening/closing.

I did observe two things:

  • When I was testing the bypass valve behind the smog pump and had the hose between the bypass valve and the diverter valve removed, I noticed the hose coming off the diverter valve seemed to be sucking air. I guess I wasn't anticipating any air being pushed or pulled since the smog pump was disconnected (note- the bottom hose on my diverter valve is plugged and doesn't not go to the cats. Have high flow BBK Cats and a magna flow exhaust system).
Points to a possible issue with the diverter valve or check valve just before the heads?​
  • TAB vacuum line to the bypass valve is not supposed to be sucking air when idling. That was true in my case except when the engine was at full operating temp. Other research also indicated no vac at idle, but should have vac when car at 1500 RPM. Did not change for me when car was in process of warming up.
Points to a possible issue of when the TAB is opening/closing?​

I'll be testing the diverter valve tonight since I've only been focusing on the TAB and bypass valve based on my Code 46 with KOER.
 
The computer takes input from the sensors (TPS, MAF, ECT, ACT, MAP/BARO, O2 and, RPM) and uses that information to determine when to turn the TAB & TAD solenoids on and off. No single sensor is used, it is a combination of inputs from all the sensors.
 
Thanks jrichker

Did a quick test of diverter valve. Might be me over analyzing, but valve did see to "leak". I swapped out with another valve I had. I'll have to run codes again tonight since I ran out of time.

It occurred to me that the vacuum line from the TAD doesn't do much with my current set up since the hose that normally runs from the diverter valve to the cats is blocked off. In other words, the second valve (diverter) is either open allowing air to flow through to the heads, or it's closed and air can't go anywhere (hose coming out the bottom of the diverted is capped).

I might have to set up a new thread, but how do people set up their smog hoses when not running stock exhaust?? Seems to me leaving the bottom hose "open" to dump air into the atmosphere would be best?
 
Just to close this post out as well, I pulled cap off bottom of diverter valve and it worked!! No more code 46. Plugging that valve must have affected the operation of the bypass valve/pump. Still need to reconnect cats to diverter, but for now, car should run great.