Thanks guys. I'll get something that will do the job one way or another.
I finished installing the new water pump motor as well as re-wiring the electric fan and water pump to the Holley instead of using the DCControl. I liked the DCControl and had no problems with it, but I liked the idea of simplifying things and having the ECU control as much as possible. I bought a 30A diode-protected relay at Napa to control the water pump as well as a giant 75A diode-protected relay for the fan. The ECU provides two separate negative triggers, one for each relay. The diode protection is important because of the huge momentary (microseconds) voltage spike that occurs when you switch off a relay off. That can create a backfeed to the ECU and damage it. A 20A fuse protects the 12V to the water pump relay and a 14ga fusible link protect the feed to the fan relay.
The nice thing about the Holley is that you have an unlimited number of ways to configure the fan and water pump based on certain inputs. I have my fan set to come on at 190 degrees and turn off at 180 degrees, but only when the engine is above 650 rpm. This keeps the fan from coming on when I turn the ignition on but don't start the car. I can also wire in a manual override switch to provide the grounded output to the relay if I decide I want the fan to run with just the ignition on for some reason. I can even use the VSS input I created to have the fan turn off at highway speeds. Cool stuff!
I'll hopefully have time tomorrow to start the car up and take it for a ride. I want to enable the closed loop and learn at idle to see how the car reacts to self-tuning the idle. I have the compensation limits turned way down because the car is relatively close to being fully tuned. The ECU was previously set to only enter closed loop and learn above 1800 rpm.
I'm just coming into that junk w/ my MSII. Both the WP, and cooling fan are controlled similarly the same way as yours except my ECU provides a very low amperage 12v signal that acts as the trigger for the relay.