Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

  • Sponsors (?)


Thats the plan. I want to keep working the port over and then cut the head down the center of the ports to see where it was getting thin.

Well,.....it's a safe bet it was getting thin where you ground into the water jacket.:runaway:

Personally, I don't know how much faith I'd put into a cut apart casting when using it as a reference standard for how far you can go into the future...(unless you're gonna get real conservative based on what you determine to be a "thin area".) Different castings all probably yield more or less tolerance for aggressive porting.
 
Last edited:
Well,.....it's a safe bet it was getting thin where you ground into the water jacket.:runaway:

Personally, I don't know how much faith I'd put into a cut apart casting when using it as a reference standard for how far you can go into the future...(unless you're gonna get real conservative based on what you determine to be a "thin area". Different castings all probably yield more or less tolerance for aggressive porting.
Castings are definitely known to vary. I don't necessarily want to use it as an exact model, but just see if the good I thought I was doing really removed enough material compared to a port that I didnt do as much work on.

For example - how much did I really grind out in the short turn?


And for the record, the port wasn't where I thought it was. Shoulda had the picture in front of me...


GT40Pexhole.png
 
Exhaust ports 2.0, still have a little more to do with a sanding cartridge, but I opened up the floor at the short side, worked the guides, and removed the bump. Still need to get some gaskets...

I am going to go to Houston Auto salvage tomorrow for the 50% off holiday sale for an intake and another head.... and whatever else I can carry out.

rul2JX.jpg
WwDG8l.jpg
 
Castings are definitely known to vary. I don't necessarily want to use it as an exact model, but just see if the good I thought I was doing really removed enough material compared to a port that I didnt do as much work on.

For example - how much did I really grind out in the short turn?


And for the record, the port wasn't where I thought it was. Shoulda had the picture in front of me...


GT40Pexhole.png
Whats the area that looks like a port behind the actual exhaust port?Never seen that before.
(Course I've never seen a stock iron head in 25 years, so that aint saying much)
 
I made some progress on my build. Or did some building in my progress thread. Not sure what's PC here anymore :p

First parts delivery at my house in a long while: 1.90" intake valves and .580" spring kit with new seals and hardware.


Intake Runner pic:


Polished chambers:




And it's done, done, on to the next one...(Foo Fighters, anyone?)

I do have one question - The machine shop said they didn't really want to flow the heads until they cut new seats and do a valve job to get accurate numbers. I get that. But I don't want to spend $275 on the work if for some reason my port work is off and I screwed something up, etc. Then I'm out all that money for nothing. I'd be unhappy. I think I may ask them to take my $30 and flow it again or I'll have to go somewhere else.
 
Think they want to help get max flow data or max cash?

Give em 30 now and ask them to reflow after youre ready for the seats.... so you can compare.
 
They're nice guys, and I trust them. I just don't think they understand that I don't trust my porting job until I see positive results. Once I see those then I'll continue on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Well, a good point was made elsewhere. More than likely, if I have to make changes, it will not be in the valve/seat area so it shouldn't matter that I have the valve job or not. I need to polish the chambers on the other head and I will have the valves and seats done.
 
Well, a good point was made elsewhere. More than likely, if I have to make changes, it will not be in the valve/seat area so it shouldn't matter that I have the valve job or not. I need to polish the chambers on the other head and I will have the valves and seats done.

The main concern would be if you pay the $275 for the machine work and then you get flow results that don't meet your expectations and you start digging back into the heads and mess something up you are out a whole bunch of money now.

Edit: In order for them to do the valve job/cut valve seats won't they need to install the valves & springs in order to ensure a tight seal?
 
The main concern would be if you pay the $275 for the machine work and then you get flow results that don't meet your expectations and you start digging back into the heads and mess something up you are out a whole bunch of money now.

Edit: In order for them to do the valve job/cut valve seats won't they need to install the valves & springs in order to ensure a tight seal?

Im not sure how it works. The seats are cut with a certain angle to match the angle of the valve as far as I know.


But yes, if I pay all of that money and something gets messed up afterwards, I will not be happy, to say the least. I'm trying to stay right at $500 and should a be little over. My calcs are at $555 right now, and should have heads that flow a little less than a TW 170.
 
Last edited:
OOOH! so I think I sold the extra explorer intake I got, which means that the extra P head and explorer intake I am going to use set me back a grand total of $20.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Im not sure how it works. The seats are cut with a certain angle to match the angle of the valve as far as I know.


But yes, if I pay all of that money and something gets messed up afterwards, I will not be happy, to say the least. I'm trying to stay right at $500 and should a be little over. My calcs are at $555 right now, and should have heads that flow a little less than a TW 170.
The valve is cut at a different angle than the seat. IIRC the seat is 45* the valve is cut @44*. A typical 3 angle valve job has the top of the seat cut @30*, the seat @45* and the throat of the seat @70*. with the valve having an angle of 44*. the valve may also be back cut to help improve flow. It can get even more complex than that if you want to get into the high zoot stuff.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Did a lot of work on the heads yesterday. Got the second head's chambers polished and got the exhaust runners ported and polished. All that's left is the intake runners and gasket matching and they'll be off to the machine shop for seats, valve job, and milling .030". I'd post pics, but it looks a lot like the other head, haha. Need to wrap this up, my attention span is getting ... OH HEY LOOK, A SQUIRREL!!!

I wanted to say though, a @Boosted92LX told me to quit wasting time with buying the sanding rolls and make my own. It's a piece of 1/4" all thread with a slot cut in it. I had a roll of 120 grit emory cloth and that sh1t worked like gang busters.

MNufIj.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users