Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

HINT: we wanted to experiment on cyl #1 for a resolution. We used 2 washers to solve the problem. Although, they cannot stay for good. They will need to be replaced by something else.
The only thing you can use washers on that may have an impact, to act like a shim, is the rocker arm stud or pedestal mount bolt. Shimming the valve spring is not going to accomplish anything.
 
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Hyd. roller lifters in a non-roller block?
To your side question: I have performed several head gasket jobs on various engines over the years. If you are real good, you can have the heads off while the engine is still hot. What happens is during the dis-assembly process, one of the first things to happen is taking rocker arms off and then pushrods out. If the engine is still hot, the lifters may stay pumped up due to residual oil pressure so to speak. When you go back together, the lifter is "up" and when you set the rockers on (side note: this happens more often on pedestal mount rockers where there is no lash/pre-load adjustment, just a torque spec for the rocker arm bolt) the lifter does not bleed down, it just opens the valve instead. Even rolling the engine over will not collapse the lifter initially. It usually has to set for a while against spring pressure to eventually bleed down and close the valve and allow the engine to start.
Very interesting. Will the lifter bleed down on its own (not under pressure) within several days?
 
Bullit & Squeak: you both are so close. Yes, we used the washers like a shim and it immediately solved the no compression problem (verified by the leakdown tester).

Since all the components were mild and bought to match the question of "why did that fix it" remained. We eventually landed on, through process of elimination, that the rebuilt short block had been decked at some point prior to the builder selling it.

The cam is stock, the rocker arms are stockish (95 Cobra units), the pushrods were stock, the block was a 302 unit, the pistons were stock design, and the heads were X307 units. Yes they have 58Cc chambers with bigger valves, but that is not an issue under .512 lift (maybe even more). Therefore, the only thing left unaccounted for was deck height.

So, I bought a box of FRPP shims for the FRPP 1.72 arms I have. They will be installed shortly. I'm expecting this to resolve the issue completely since the washers did the trick.
 
Has anyone ever dealt with this type of mystery before? Maybe re-assembly #5 will do it...as long as there are no more surprises. I'm starting to dislike surprises. I like predictable now!
 
Wow bro, you are sticking with the car to the end and that's awesome. A lot of people will always recommend measuring for push rod length even if it's a normal combo that's been done a thousand times. Hope this solves your problem!
 
Wow bro, you are sticking with the car to the end and that's awesome. A lot of people will always recommend measuring for push rod length even if it's a normal combo that's been done a thousand times. Hope this solves your problem!
Thanks, man. I'm sticking with it because I don't really have a good choice at this point. The money has been invested and it will be my daily. Its certainly an adventure.
 
UPDATE: The shims did the trick! We had to use all of them (i.e., .090 on each rocker). After 4 & 1/2 months of chipping away Old Blu started and idled. Woo hoo!

Now we need to figure out the rest of the hacked wiring, install the cruise cntrl system, R&R the rear deck lid, R&R some moldings, R&R tail lights & head lights, get the rear end done, etc, etc, etc.
 
UPDATE: The car has a bad surge problem. We checked all sensors, vac lines, wires, etc. We found that the ECM is bad (code 15). New one on the way. Also, a rear main seal leak was just observed, yay. Not really, but sarcasm helps sometimes.

For reference purposes the following parts were used with the cylinder heads:

- Shims M6529A302
- Head Bolt/Gsk Kit M6051D50
- Heads M6049X307
- Pushrods M6565L302
- 1.72 Rockers M6564A50
- Intake Gsk Kit M9439A50
- Spark Plugs AGSF-320

Hope this helps someone else.
 
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UPDATE: The replacement ECM has arrived!

It's getting difficult to find a replacement A9L these days. This one came from Oregon and cost $175 including shipping. I remember being able to get them from Autozone for $99. What happened? Anyhow, this one is still sealed from the factory.
ECM.JPG


ECM Factory Seal.JPG
 
UPDATE: Took the car out for a test drive. Its a beast. There is no hooking until 3rd gear. I have stock gearing, subframes, up/low control arms, FMS C Kit springs in back, K-member Coil overs in front, Koni Blues all the way around, but no hook.

Anyhow, we pulled it back in the bay for some testing. I unplugged the MAF & IAC (both new) with NO CHANGE in idle whatsoever. Any guesses?
 
UPDATE: We figured out the solution to MAF/IAC non-operation - R&R the entire car wiring harness. We found a functioning donor car and snagged every wiring harness it had for $450. Pics forthcoming...
 
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Update: For those of you who woke up this morning wondering, "I wonder how much all the fox body wiring harnesses weigh?" Well, wonder no longer, sir. An entire car's wiring harness weighs right about 18lbs...
Wiring harnesses.JPG


Now, if I can just persuade my tech to get back into the car's wiring...
 
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Considering it was every single harness bumper to bumper out of a working car, I'm not complaining. So many hours have already been spent on chasing electrical problems the $450 was welcomed. Ya feel me?
I see it was a trade off. All points considered, I think you chose wisely. Just seemed to be slightly higher than I would have paid, but it is not for me to decide. Carry on, I have been watching with interest.