Late Model Restoration

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
5 Year Member
Jul 30, 2011
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Illinois
I have been doing business with this company a lot over the past 2-3 years. I recently had an issue with receiving a product I had ordered. It was either lost by ups or didn't get packed(this is unlikely). This was the first time I've ever had a problem. After talking with my service rep via email they are sending me a new one free of charge. I can't say enough good things about doing business with this company.
 
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I have been doing business with this company a lot over the past 2-3 years. I recently had an issue with receiving a product I had ordered. It was either lost by ups or didn't get packed(this is unlikely). This was the first time I've ever had a problem. After talking with my service rep via email they are sending me a new one free of charge. I can't say enough good things about doing business with this company.

Me too. They are great, truly. The exact same thing happened to me, and they overnighted me the part after I called them. Fantastic company.
 
LMR, Summit, CJ Pony Parts and even a few ebay companies have all been great to work with. Summit has even warranties stuff that was out of warranty.

Joe
 
I've been a satisfied customer of LMR and Summit for years too. CJ Pony Parts has been good but I've used them only on a limited basis.

No one mentioned Fox Mustang Restoration (foxresto.com). I've been happy with their service as well.
 
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I appreciate all the praise and kind words about our company. Let me know if there is anything we can help ya'll with! @A5literMan let me know if they get you taken care of 100%

I have been doing business with this company a lot over the past 2-3 years. I recently had an issue with receiving a product I had ordered. It was either lost by ups or didn't get packed(this is unlikely). This was the first time I've ever had a problem. After talking with my service rep via email they are sending me a new one free of charge. I can't say enough good things about doing business with this company.
 
I agree. LMR, Summit, AMR are my go to sources. Jarrod and Tony have always taken care of me very well

You guys need to post more videos- I'd like to see a Coyote swap video in a Fox body.
 
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Just one thing.
Recently I've noticed their ad for new rear control arm hardware that they state is grade 8.8(=SAE grade 5)where grade 10.9(=SAE grade 8) is specified and is what came stock from Ford.
Selling cheap fasteners as stock replacements can't be good for business.
 
Not sure I understand what you are getting at. Even if its not a factory replacement part, the fasteners should at least be factory grade. Especially on suspension, steering and brakes.

With your statement are you trying to make the case that's it's OK to use the equivalent of SAE grade 5 hardware to mount suspension components?

A friendly debate.

Just to state the obvious, grade 8 is stronger than grade 5 by nearly 3,500 lbs in shear capability. However that doesn't mean that Grade 5 is weak, you have to consider it's application and the type of stress it will endure. I wouldn't want them installed on my heavy F-150 which will occasionally carry a load or tow something resulting in a lot of extra stress. However for a 3,000 lb stock street car that is not towing, hauling loads, doing 5k rpm launches with slicks the nearly 15,000 lb shear capability of a 1/2" dia bolt with a tensile strength of 120k lbs seems to me like it's not over nor under sized. If torqued correctly this bolt is likely NOT the weakest link in regards to what it's holding together. You also have to take in consideration that not all force goes directly to the bolt when going over bumps, accelerating, cornering etc. The force is absorbed through shocks, springs, tires, bushings and there is nearly two of everything (springs, shocks, LCA's etc) which means that 15,000# shear capacity is only one side and most forces are applied to both sides almost equally giving you nearly 30,000# of shear strength.

If there were ever 30k lbs of force being applied to the bolts (after all losses) then the bolt wouldn't be my biggest concern, it would be the cliff I just drove off or the truck that just smashed into me.

Although I have no makes or models of the vehicles, there is lots of talk about vehicle manufacturers that use grade 5 as OEM suspension hardware. I'd assume they use it on compact passenger vehicles.
 
On the subject of the proper grade LCA hardware; I bought that hardware set from LRS earlier and comparing it to the original hardware it was obvious they were not comparable quality. I wanted to get the car done ASAP so I used them anyway and when I went to torque the LCA bolts to spec they immediately stripped out.

After some searching and calling around I found a Lincoln dealer (they really sell only Lincolns) 2 hours away that had the proper OEM grade 10.9 flange bolts. For what it's worth the guys at the parts desk said suspension hardware should always be grade 10.9 (Grade 8 SAE as already mentioned). The difference between the bolts is night and day. The hex head is taller for more bite from your socket, the tip is tapered, it's the proper coating, etc...

In LRS' defense when I called, Jay said if I send him a picture of the striped bolts he'll give me a credit for the kit. Problem is I can't even get the nuts off now, I guess I'm gonna have to cut them off but I just haven't had the time to work on it yet.

Picture of the new OEM Ford bolt next to LRS':
745b93f3222c79b323f75c03582844e5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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On the subject of the proper grade LCA hardware; I bought that hardware set from LRS earlier and comparing it to the original hardware it was obvious they were not comparable quality. I wanted to get the car done ASAP so I used them anyway and when I went to torque the LCA bolts to spec they immediately stripped out.

After some searching and calling around I found a Lincoln dealer (they really sell only Lincolns) 2 hours away that had the proper OEM grade 10.9 flange bolts. For what it's worth the guys at the parts desk said suspension hardware should always be grade 10.9 (Grade 8 SAE as already mentioned). The difference between the bolts is night and day. The hex head is taller for more bite from your socket, the tip is tapered, it's the proper coating, etc...

In LRS' defense when I called, Jay said if I send him a picture of the striped bolts he'll give me a credit for the kit. Problem is I can't even get the nuts off now, I guess I'm gonna have to cut them off but I just haven't had the time to work on it yet.

Picture of the new OEM Ford bolt next to LRS':
745b93f3222c79b323f75c03582844e5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If LRS is using poor quality Grade 5 bolts then that's a shame. Quality can vary depending on who manufactured the hardware. I've worked a lot with both grades 5 & 8 bolts and neither of them should strip unless you're over torquing the hardware. It's easy to get a nut cross threaded and mess up threads but that's not the bolts fault.
 
Ya know since you guys brought up this hardware issue now I know it wasn't just me. I also had problems with the bolts stripping on a SVE rear control arm kit I bought and installed on my '88 a couple years ago.

I ended up re-using the old stock hardware from my old control arms.
 
If LRS is using poor quality Grade 5 bolts then that's a shame. Quality can vary depending on who manufactured the hardware. I've worked a lot with both grades 5 & 8 bolts and neither of them should strip unless you're over torquing the hardware. It's easy to get a nut cross threaded and mess up threads but that's not the bolts fault.

I was using a torque wrench, I wanted to do it right the first time. The other side with the new Ford bolt torqued to spec perfectly with no problems.


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