Fox Help
- Thread starter Joe504
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
jrivasmdobg
New Member
Im new at this so i will give you what I've been reading and what i think is keeping it simple.
1. new exhaust pref a cat back system
2. Tune the car
3. Cold air intake
OracleHCR
Active Member
Definitely. His first post was saying he just purchased a 92 'vert 5.0....
Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.
Dayum... and not a single one of you 'veteran' members clicked the report button? 
Bunch of Noobz.
Bunch of Noobz.
That's because of the first 5, the OP posted his Fox 5.0 question in a S 550 forum.
I'll take the opportunity to point out that the forum recommendations for asking for "help" (is to not) and to be more specific as to what you are asking for help for in your thread title. The Op was looking for advice and opinions as to what might be a path to start down towards modifying his newly acquired Mustang. The thread title should include at least one of the opinions he is asking for.
Using a one word thread title like "help" is too vague, and posting the thread in the entirely wrong forum will more than likely insure that you don't get any.
The bottom line here is we want to encourage members to interact. Getting the required information is up to you guys by insuring you post your threads in the right place, and giving the members you are asking for advice from as much info as possible, starting w/ your thread title.
Actually I meant I have 6 posts and 5 are off topic, not the OP. I should have quoted the guy above me to be more clear. He made mention of veterans should have flagged the post. I was simply saying that I'm not a veteran, I've only got 6 posts.That's because of the first 5, the OP posted his Fox 5.0 question in a S 550 forum.
I'll take the opportunity to point out that the forum recommendations for asking for "help" (is to not) and to be more specific as to what you are asking for help for in your thread title. The Op was looking for advice and opinions as to what might be a path to start down towards modifying his newly acquired Mustang. The thread title should include at least one of the opinions he is asking for.
Using a one word thread title like "help" is too vague, and posting the thread in the entirely wrong forum will more than likely insure that you don't get any.
The bottom line here is we want to encourage members to interact. Getting the required information is up to you guys by insuring you post your threads in the right place, and giving the members you are asking for advice from as much info as possible, starting w/ your thread title.
Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.
No worries. Evidently Noobz wasn't necessarily referring to any of the respondents when he used the word "veterans." I can't testify as to how many of the 104 views it has had since it was here, but more than likely it was viewed numerous times by seasoned members when it was in the wrong place.
How much more HP are you looking for? You won't get much if you're wanting to keep an OEM looking engine. Best you could do is an Explorer top end with whatever cam you best fits your use for the vehicle. This top end upgrade has been covered 1,345,897 times so a search would give you enough reading material to get you well versed with this option. Depending on how you do it and if you have a T5 or auto, people get about 250-275 hp to the rear wheels.
You need to consider this as well:
Have you geared the rear end? If not, start there.
Manual or auto trans?
Subframe connectors? This is a must have when adding power and/or gears. Maximum Motorsports is the best choice for this upgrade.
Sheesh I thought someone had yelled for "help" because they had fallen and couldn't get back up.
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
Explorer GT40 or GT 40P cylinder heads. The GT40 heads have 3 bars cast at the end of the head. GT 40 's will work with any header setup, they are found on the earlier model Explorers from 95 - 97 I believe. The GT 40P's are found on 98-2001 model cars and have 4 bars cast into the end of the cylinder head.. They need aftermarket headers designed to clear the angled spark plugs.
Whatever you GT40 heads get, plan to replace the valve springs replaced with good quality aftermarket springs from someplace like Crane Cams or Competition Cams.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.
Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter. There is no guarantee that the balance will be any better than the stock part.
Use a piece of string and wrap it around the driveshaft. Make a mark on the string where the ends overlap. Measure the length of the string:
On the 3" AeroStar driveshaft the string will be 9.42" or about 9 7/16" long.
On the Ford Racing 3.5" driveshaft the string will be 10.99" or about 11" long
*1.) Metal flange adapter Ford MAF Adapters - Air Filters - Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
Explorer GT40 or GT 40P cylinder heads. The GT40 heads have 3 bars cast at the end of the head. GT 40 's will work with any header setup, they are found on the earlier model Explorers from 95 - 97 I believe. The GT 40P's are found on 98-2001 model cars and have 4 bars cast into the end of the cylinder head.. They need aftermarket headers designed to clear the angled spark plugs.
Whatever you GT40 heads get, plan to replace the valve springs replaced with good quality aftermarket springs from someplace like Crane Cams or Competition Cams.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.
Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter. There is no guarantee that the balance will be any better than the stock part.
Use a piece of string and wrap it around the driveshaft. Make a mark on the string where the ends overlap. Measure the length of the string:
On the 3" AeroStar driveshaft the string will be 9.42" or about 9 7/16" long.
On the Ford Racing 3.5" driveshaft the string will be 10.99" or about 11" long
*1.) Metal flange adapter Ford MAF Adapters - Air Filters - Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Why didn't you use the token Internet abbreviation for that?
ILOLSHIAP?
Get with the times, sheesh
Similar threads
