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It's been awhile since I checked, but my friend used to use some electric air pump from a Chevrolet application to suck crankcase vapors. Eliminates the need for having to accommodate the belt driven pump into your serpentine system, and the pump is designed for the application. The pump is noisy as hell though. I don't know what is done differently when it's a factory install to quiet that b itch down, but on the race cars that he uses them on, it sounds like a little shop vac or something. because it's a constant pull, I think there isn't a need to install any bleed restrictors and you can otherwise seal up the engine vent system, running just the one (- whatever) hose to it, and vent the gasses ( from the pump) into your breather tank..

I'm watching you deal with this, because I'll have a template when/if my vapor issue becomes a necessity.

If you want, I can call and find out if he's still using these things, on the cars he builds, and what/where they come from.
If you wouldn't mind reaching out to him, I'd like to know what he uses and how long the pumps have lasted him.
 
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I did, and he doesn't use them anymore, they didn't pull enough vacuum.
Ah. Figures. I think I'm going to wind up just buying two separate catch cans with good baffle designs and mount them in the front fender areas of the car so the vapors have a long way to travel in a cooler environment. It would be great to do a vacuum pump setup, but mechanical is too difficult for me to mount and the electric ones seem so hit or miss.
 
Car is back under the knife. I managed to remove the existing catch can without having to pull the dash. My method was rather medieval and harsh, but it's out and a pair of grommet plugs are now occupying the area where the holes used to be. I'm also relocating the fuel pressure regulator outside of the engine bay and changing the route of the fuel return lines. Once the new parts show up, I'll post some pictures. Too much damn heat on that side of the engine bay. Turbo car problems.
 
I was actually going to ask if you have a fresh air source into the engine. You don't happen to have a part number do you?
No part number. I used one of those porous stone "filters" similar to what is pictured. It sits in the grommet that would normally house the PCV valve. It bleeds just a small amount of air into the crankcase during the operation of the vacuum pump. The part I used was taken out of the snout of my Kenne Bell S/C. They use it to vent the front gear case on the blower. I now have a small K&N type filter in its place now.
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Was thinking of using one of these: DORMAN Electric Vacuum Pump 904-214
Seeing as how it is used to operate all vacuum accessories on a diesel, according to the description all of the following, P/S, P/B, CC, EGR, heater controls and 4x4 operation among others, I would think it would handle constant duty...:thinking:


I would REALLY like to know how that works out. Please pass on whatever you find out! I could use something like that.
 
I'd be curious to see if that has enough capacity to pull vacuum from a crankcase. The ports look tiny. It will also probably need a catch can before the inlet to prevent oil from getting inside and eventually killing it. I'll have to research it a little more and see if anyone has use one successfully.
 
Then, why can't you just do what I origionally asked about a bagillion replies ago, and just t into the filter side of the compressor, and suck the fumes back into the engine? As long as the oil stays out of that line, all you're " ingesting" is some small percentage of crankcase vapor? Gotta be a way to " Mike-ro-engineer" something like that.
 
@madmike1157 That is a solution that I like, but the only unknown is how much vacuum can that actually pull? With a setup like that you want your air filer to be MORE restrictive. I don't think any vacuum will be produced if the air filter flows too well. I have a big ass air filter with the open cone design on the end. Think about opening your mouth and putting a straw next to your lips. Pull in air as hard as you can with your mouth. Do you get any liquid through the straw? No. Seems like the same theory would apply to an open turbo inlet or high flowing air filter. What I need to do is tap a vacuum line off of the filter and run it to my boost gauge so I can measure any potential vacuum at different loads and RPMs.

In the meantime, I'm ditching my breather tank and installing a pair of engineered baffled tanks in the passenger fender. They will just have breathers on the outlets for now, but can easily be plumbed into the filter if that winds up being a feasible solution to getting some vacuum on the crankcase.
 
@madmike1157 That is a solution that I like, but the only unknown is how much vacuum can that actually pull? With a setup like that you want your air filer to be MORE restrictive. I don't think any vacuum will be produced if the air filter flows too well. I have a big ass air filter with the open cone design on the end. Think about opening your mouth and putting a straw next to your lips. Pull in air as hard as you can with your mouth. Do you get any liquid through the straw? No. Seems like the same theory would apply to an open turbo inlet or high flowing air filter. What I need to do is tap a vacuum line off of the filter and run it to my boost gauge so I can measure any potential vacuum at different loads and RPMs.

In the meantime, I'm ditching my breather tank and installing a pair of engineered baffled tanks in the passenger fender. They will just have breathers on the outlets for now, but can easily be plumbed into the filter if that winds up being a feasible solution to getting some vacuum on the crankcase.

How does that change the fact that vapor makes it past the filter? My -12 line has to travel 30" forward, then another 30" back before it gets to the breather tank.
My engine obviously brand new and unbroken in,....but mine still smokes like a chimney.