Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

[RacEoHolic330]

How does that change the fact that vapor makes it past the filter? My -12 line has to travel 30" forward, then another 30" back before it gets to the breather tank.
My engine obviously brand new and unbroken in,....but mine still smokes like a chimney.

That's all assuming that a well-designed baffled breather tank is used to get the vapor to turn to liquid. Part of the reason why it's going in the fender to help cool the vapors. My current catch can is just letting those vapors float right out the top through the breather.

 

[02 281 GT]

LMR just happened to share a rather nice picture today.


View: https://www.facebook.com/latemodelresto/photos/a.120007244843.98300.30343354843/10153626174589844/?type=3

 

[rdharper02]

Heck Yeah. Looks great man. I'm still working to get mine into a photo. A little more work and it could be the "before" in someone's project thread....lol.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

So, although it has been a while since I've posted, I have actually been doing some work on the car. I installed a pair of engineered catch cans from Radium Engineering. They are very nice, and are the small size I needed. The UPR ones would do the trick too, but they were a bit too large for where I was planning on mounting them. I have them mounted in the passenger front fender to the bolts that hold on the front fender extension. I installed two bulkhead fittings behind the strut tower and ran the hoses from the valve covers to there. The other side of the bulkhead fittings have posh-lok fittings on there and the lines go from there to the catch cans. So far so good, I don't get the smell of oil vapor coming into the car anymore and I don't have any signs of puffing smoke.

At the same time, I decided to relocate the fuel pressure regulator into the same fender just behind the headlight. When I mounted the regulator (and the catch can) I didn't realize how hot that area of the engine bay gets, especially with the downpipe in that area. I feel better having the regulator in a cooler spot to help keep the fuel temps down. With moving the regulator, I also re-routed the return lines. They no longer 180 off the front of the rails to the back of the engine bay. They now come down the front of the block behind the power steering pump and then make their way behind the lower radiator support back to the regulator on the passenger side. More fuel line, but it's all in a cooler spot. The issues I had with the fuel getting too hot should all be solved now.

I didn't take any pictures when I was making all these changes, but I'll take some soon.

I also ordered an Alky Control methanol injection kit. Welll, I ordered part of the kit. I need to mount the pump and tank first and then send him the length of line I need. The kit is designed to be ran with straight M1 methanol. The original plan was to just run the car on 100 octane all the time, but I quickly realized how impractical and costly that really is. The Alky Control controller is probably the best on the market from what I have researched. All the lines are also steel braided. Once that's installed, I'll be off to the tuner again. I'm going to run the car on C16 first and take the turbo to its limit to see what the engine can do, then we will tune the meth injection on pump gas. I hope to be at the dyno in the next month.

Some other interior changes are on the way as well. Stay tuned for those.

 

[Noobz347]

So, although it has been a while since I've posted, I have actually been doing some work on the car.

This is how far I got before I realized there were no pikcherz.

 

[84Ttop]

@RacEoHolic330 I'm curious to know more about the alky injection system that you'll be using. What materials that the components are made of most specifically. As you know I've had the pleasure of using M1 this season and I have learned quite a bit about how finiky it can be. Just yesterday I pulled the injectors out of my motor to find them pretty well mangled from the M1, my 6 month old fuel rails.... oxidized heavily on the inside, fuel tank oxidized, orings... yeah, we almost had a fire on 2 occasions now from oring failure on the fuel system. Long story short I haven't found anything that the methanol doesn't eat with the exception of the drum in comes in hence my curiosity of the system you're installing. Methanol burns completely clear if you were to have a fire (this is dangerous...as if I needed to say this?). Anywho, if you need a sizable quantity of methanol I'm your guy lol. I've gone through 3 drums so far this year and have a pretty good supply line. Also curious to know if the methanol you'll be using uses a lube at all? There are a few options on when the drum the stuff. Either way I've been paying 180$ for a 54 gallon drum of M1, as long as the drum is sealed after each use it will remain good for a long period of time. Open containers of Methanol evaporate quickly and attract water.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

@84Ttop The tank holding the meth is a plastic vortech fuel cell style tank. All the lines are PTFE with brass fittings, both of which are impervious to methanol. The pump itself will require maintenance every couple years. 3 years if running straight meth, or 7 years if running a 50/50 mix. No lube is being added to the methanol. He does have rubber lines for those that need to make tight bends that can't be done with PTFE. Those lines are BUNA rubber, which is supposed to be compatible with methanol.

Thanks for the offer on the meth. If I start needing larger quantities, I'll definitely let you know. The place I get my 100 octane has medical grade M1 as well. Definitely won't be as cheap as you get it for, but having it down the road is definitely nice.

 

[84Ttop]

I'm am happy to hear that you looking into this far more than I did lol. I've learned the hard way how hard M1 has been on parts, exhibit A:
You can see here the M1 has oxidized the anodized aluminum quite a bit in only a few months of use.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Wow. Methanol sure is hungry. It wants to tear apart everything it comes in contact with. So what do the big boy alcohol dragster and pro mod teams do for fuel systems? Are their budgets just so big that they replace fittings and components every season?

 

[84Ttop]

Exactly that, they have hosts of fittings and lines that are replaced regularly. I personally don't have the budget for that and didn't get the full scoop before making the switch. There are tons and tons of advantages to Methanol, it supports some incredible HP it just happens to be very corrosive. I'll be most curious in another 2 months when we tear my motor down to see the full extent of the wear and tear. I have a good base line to know what it should look like for comparison sake.
After we developed a serious fuel leak on the starting line at YellowBullet and almost burned my car up I started hearing more and more horror stories from friends of friends who have had similar problems. I don't have pictures of the orings but they literally disintegrated. I sure wouldn't want to see what Methanol would to do paint ...

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Maybe just run the car on Everclear next season and see how that works for ya. Hah!

 

[84Ttop]

Maybe just run the car on Everclear next season and see how that works for ya. Hah!

I have the means to make my own "high test" don't tempt me

 

[RangerJoe]

I watched a video of an mod motor tear down where the owner was using copious amounts of water method injection. It left some corrosion on the rods. That really shocked me.

Joe

 

[RaggedGT]

You guys sure know a lot about Meth............ Wait a minute... No wonder you guys have sweet Mustangs, does either of your license plates say "CAPNCOOK". ? Lol

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Grabbed a few pictures tonight.

Here is the new route for the return lines. The Y block is mounted right under the frame rail.


Compare that to how they used to run.



Here is the area behind the strut tower.


It used to be a bit more cluttered


The fuel regulator is hiding in the fender, but I can still see the pressure gauge.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Oh, and here is part of my interior changes. @TMIproducts will be hearing from me.

 

[RaggedGT]

Just digging this thread up


Lol

 

[stangboy]

Grabbed a few pictures tonight.

Here is the new route for the return lines. The Y block is mounted right under the frame rail.


Compare that to how they used to run.



Here is the area behind the strut tower.


It used to be a bit more cluttered


The fuel regulator is hiding in the fender, but I can still see the pressure gauge.

You don't think the way you have the return lines so close to the head(maybe even touching) that you will still have the same problem with higher fuel temps? Of course the head won't get as hot as the turbo downpipe but it still gets pretty hot. Just asking.

 

[Black1987]

So I'm late to this thread, but the vacuum issue you spoke of a page or two ago.

Powerblock Horsepower just had an esipode on a 76mm turbo' 347 using a Jones serpentine driven vacuum pump. I'll post the link, maybe it will help.

Black & Blue: Stage III | Engine Power | PowerNation TV - Full Episodes

 

[bentley429isBAC]

I like the new catch can setup. Car is looking good.