- Dec 19, 2010
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To drive to the lanes, burnout, stage, 1/8th mile hit and drive back to the pits is almost 3 gallons
Testing testing to get the suspension right before another change?To drive to the lanes, burnout, stage, 1/8th mile hit and drive back to the pits is almost 3 gallons
We did average a solid 2 miles to the gallon on the street though hahaha
It looks like some more changes again this winter though so who knows what will happen
Need more hp...Isn't that always the answer?Testing testing to get the suspension right before another change?
To drive to the lanes, burnout, stage, 1/8th mile hit and drive back to the pits is almost 3 gallons
We did average a solid 2 miles to the gallon on the street though hahaha
It looks like some more changes again this winter though so who knows what will happen
This car will forever be driven on the street. When I was paying 14.50 a gallon for c16 and getting 3 miles to the gallon there was no reservation to take a trip to the taco bellI'll bet you don't make many more Taco Bell runs in that thing!
I've run through half a stock tank beating on mine on a ten mile run. I though that was bad. I have yet to drive it civilly long enough ( or keep it going long enough ) to find out how it really does.
It's looking like the rules will change and force our hand. To be honest it's super hard on parts and even if they allow it for next year I will see what the rebuild will entail before deciding to run another season with it.Going away from meth?
Back to c16 ?It's looking like the rules will change and force our hand. To be honest it's super hard on parts and even if they allow it for next year I will see what the rebuild will entail before deciding to run another season with it.
If it goes that direction then we might try Q16, that's a few months out though at bestBack to c16 ?
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
kinda... using all that you have is where we have found most of our ET...Need more hp...Isn't that always the answer?
Whoa whoa whoa.... who made bacon wrapped onion rings and brought corn on the cobb?but dont forget im an ******* whos never helped anyone lol
You don't help anyone . Your not cool to hang out with and you deff don't bring food with you to events . . .but dont forget im an ******* whos never helped anyone lol
LMAO... not sureWhoa whoa whoa.... who made bacon wrapped onion rings and brought corn on the cobb?
Same guy that set me up with Mark Menscer!LMAO... not sure
Can you expand on the "super hard on parts" part of this statement....as in How so?It's looking like the rules will change and force our hand. To be honest it's super hard on parts and even if they allow it for next year I will see what the rebuild will entail before deciding to run another season with it.
I've avoided 2 fires so far from oring failures, orings that were damaged from the alcohol. I'll have to have the injectors rebuilt after this season as there is a fair amount of corrosion in them from the alcohol. All of the AN fittings show signs of corrosion as well as the fuel cell. I'm curious to see if the fuel hose is damaged as well? I will likely replace the lines at the end of the year to be sure. After every 4 or 5 passes I have to change the oil as it begins to look like a milkshake, when pulling the drain plug a few as in 3 or so ounces of water come out before any oil as the motor has a hard time reaching temps high enough to burn off condensation (140 degrees). I can only imagine that the lubrication at a certain point becomes compromised. Speaking of condensation, water literally comes out of the exhaust. I can only imagine that there is some type of corrosion inside the engine be it cylinder walls or valve train that is what I'm most curious to see during our winter tear down.Can you expand on the "super hard on parts" part of this statement....as in How so?
Are you running any kind of a crankcase evac pump at all? Do you drain the fuel after a race weekend and put regular fuel in it and start it up and let it run for a min or so to get rid of all of the residual meth in the fuel system? Do you spray the engine inlet with the likes of Seafoam or Marvel mystery oil or something similar to prevent cylinder head/combustion area corrosion?I've avoided 2 fires so far from oring failures, orings that were damaged from the alcohol. I'll have to have the injectors rebuilt after this season as there is a fair amount of corrosion in them from the alcohol. All of the AN fittings show signs of corrosion as well as the fuel cell. I'm curious to see if the fuel hose is damaged as well? I will likely replace the lines at the end of the year to be sure. After every 4 or 5 passes I have to change the oil as it begins to look like a milkshake, when pulling the drain plug a few as in 3 or so ounces of water come out before any oil as the motor has a hard time reaching temps high enough to burn off condensation (140 degrees). I can only imagine that the lubrication at a certain point becomes compromised. Speaking of condensation, water literally comes out of the exhaust. I can only imagine that there is some type of corrosion inside the engine be it cylinder walls or valve train that is what I'm most curious to see during our winter tear down.