Progress Thread Update And Opinions On My Build Plan And Some Questions.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the 96 model year explorer was the only year explorer that has the non P heads. 96 only, not 96-97. The EGR provisions may have been 96-97, but the non P heads, 96 only.

The OP said money is not an object. If that is the case, go after market cam and AFR's. You can never have too much HP.

Or, the Trick Flow top end kit.
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the 96 model year explorer was the only year explorer that has the non P heads. 96 only, not 96-97. The EGR provisions may have been 96-97, but the non P heads, 96 only.

The OP said money is not an object. If that is the case, go after market cam and AFR's. You can never have too much HP.

Or, the Trick Flow top end kit.
I forgot what years the P heads came on. In fact, I spent several hours pulling a "P" head at a salvage yard a few months ago only to find out I had the wrong year and pulled a regler ol' GT40 head instead. I was not happy.
 
96 is a non P head. That's what I was looking at because I heard the P head had header issues. I know the P head is better for power, but for what I wanted I did not think I needed it.
But were beyond that! Were looking at a 4000 dollar upper end build on a old short block now so I can do burnouts with my wife. Good thing she gets turned on by this! It'll be money well spent!
I said money is not an object because I'll put what ever I have to out to get what i want. I'm not trying to stay at 500 dollars with a used explorer motor. Not that there is anything wrong with this plan or budget builds. And I appreciate the info. This is not a budget build. I want a decent performer and a clean shiny engine.
I bought this car as a project for me to work on this winter. I wanted to make the car the way I wanted instead of going out and buying a 8000 dollar already done by someone else car.
 
All things being equal the explorer build paired with a good cam is just as nice as the trick flow kit. The beauty of the trickflow kit is literally everything you need is in the box.
With the issues you had with the engine when you got the car I would at least pull it and inspect all of your bearings before throwing any money at it. Would be a shame to bolt on all that shiney and sling a rod.
 
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Thanks again! I have thought about that. It needs an oil pan as it is dented and the drain plug leaks a tad. Plus then I could easily paint the short block instead of doing it in the car. If the shorty was bad, Id just buy a stock shorty instead of messing with this one.
 
Thanx for keeping me on my toes...guess the e cam being the cobra cam was a rumor I adapted to way back. Kinda like Elvis being alive.
 
Thanx for keeping me on my toes...guess the e cam being the cobra cam was a rumor I adapted to way back. Kinda like Elvis being alive.

If you do end up going GT40 route. Look into Anderson cams, he has specialized cams for the GT40 top end. Also, since you were staying N/A the explorer short block 1+, and then if your current block has the forged TRW in it. You can sell them and recoup some $$$ or use them.
 
If you do end up going GT40 route. Look into Anderson cams, he has specialized cams for the GT40 top end. Also, since you were staying N/A the explorer short block 1+, and then if your current block has the forged TRW in it. You can sell them and recoup some $$$ or use them.
Which ones? I've been digging around for something to use with my ported P heads. Most say the Crane 2031 is the way to go, but I haven't seen any for sale lately. If there is another to use, I am all ears.
 
Which ones? I've been digging around for something to use with my ported P heads. Most say the Crane 2031 is the way to go, but I haven't seen any for sale lately. If there is another to use, I am all ears.

A fellow member in another group used ported Ps (3 angle intake, 5 angle exhaust) with ported lower with Anderson N-41 and made 306 hp on the dyno. Stock 302, 24lbs, Taylor Wires, 70mm TB, and Anderson Powerpipe with a 75mm Pro -m Maf
 
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@tmoss made similar with his. I believe the port work to be the factor here. The Anderson cam is fantastic but I think it performs on the same par as the tfs1
 
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@tmoss made similar with his. I believe the port work to be the factor here. The Anderson cam is fantastic but I think it performs on the same par as the tfs1
I have a set of P heads I have been working on. Spent a good month researching and finally took the plunge and started grinding. Hoping to come close to TF170 numbers, which after looking at real world 170 flow results, isnt all that hard to do.
 
My n41 is long gone. I swapped from the tfs 1 to it because it was the "gt40" cam. It preformed well, but probably not that much better than the tfs 1 to justify the money spent upgrading. One nice feature about the anderson cams is that they are all billet.

Joe
 
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Not sure if your talking about my project or the banter above.
My project is well under way. We pulled the short block and inspected it. Everything looked really good and all was easily in spec. Painted it and back in it is.
I did not go with the TF kit. I went with my original plan.
I got re-manufactured 96 Explorer heads. Had the shop pull the stock springs and add comp cams springs.
Have Crane/Ford Cobra 1.7 roller rockers on the way.
Edelbrock Performer RPM upper and lower.
BBK 70mm TB and EGR..
BBK MAF sensor.
BBK CAI.
BBK headers.
I went with my stock valve covers and stripped them and powder coated them and all steel engine brackets crinkle black semi gloss.
All aluminum brackets and upper intake are powder coated "Chrome" which looks like a polished aluminum. With a clear over that. Really looks good!
I have a new radiator, water pump replaced (The water pump impeller was broke off from the shaft), new fan, coolant overflow tank and cap. Plus new bolt kits for heads, intake ect.

Friday the heads are going on, then I can measure for my push-rod length. Although after talking to the guys at Crane, I may just use stock length according to them. Which is weird after reading allot about this? This is what Crane said about push rod length after I asked about my setup.

"No sir. The length does not change until you change the base circle of the camshaft, push rod seat height on the lifters, valve tip height, or changing to an adjustable rocker arm set-up. This is still a pedestal mount rocker arm, right?"

Thanks, Robert

Once I get the push-rods its all down hill and back together. Getting excited and ready to get this engine done so we can continue with the other things.
 
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I was referring to your build. The banter comes free , one of the pluses of this forum lol. Glad you are making some good progress, don't forget pictures :D I am shopping around/ gathering parts for HCI swap myself. And looking forward to see how your setup turns out
 
Lets see if I can post a couple pics.
Here is the shorty back in.
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And the car I'm working on. 91 triple black.
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Ill get some pics of my garage floor with all the parts soon. And Ill keep updating. Thanks for the interest!
 
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