Noisy Lifters Or Bad Timing Chain Guides?

Okay guys. I have posted a couple mechanical problems on this forum site in the past and I have always received great feedback so maybe you guys can help me again! I have a 2001 Mustang GT with 130,000 miles and I have a ticking noise. I found this on YouTube and it sounds IDENTICAL to the noise my car is making
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UsbqsyN8Blo

I have added sea foam to my oil, didn't help at all, and I have also added a rislone oil treatment to my oil as well, and it still hasn't changed anything. It doesn't start ticking until the engine has reached normal operating temperature and it does not tick at all when it is cold. So what do you guys think this noise could be? Any input is appreciated.
 
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Verify that a spark plug isn't backing out. Best to torque to factory specs using a torque wrench.

IMO it's never a bad idea to cut open the oil filter after oil changes. I now do it every filter change.

Search and review Ford TSB 03256

If this were my car and after confirming there was no metal debris in the oil pan and all sparks plugs are CORRECTLY torqued, I would just drive it.

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ISSUE:

Some vehicles, equipped with the Romeo built 4.6L 2V engine, with an "ENGINE BUILD DATE" prior to 9/17/2003 may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. The noise may be emanating from the valve guide area in the cylinder head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front wheel well area and may not be heard with the hood open.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure listed in this article to properly evaluate/diagnose the vehicle condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES WITH A "ROMEO ENGINE" BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003 (ENGINE BUILD DATE NOT VEHICLE BUILD DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON THE VALVE COVER.

  1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.
  2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle).
  3. Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.
  4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a time.
  5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest vehicle.
  6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, re-torque to specification (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01).
  7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible "spongy" condition (refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-00).
  8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed. If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number L3Z-6049-AA (RH) or 4L3Z-6049-BA (LH). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303- 01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.


    SUPERSEDES:

    03-16-4

    WARRANTY STATUS:

    Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

    L3Z-6049-AA (RH) or 4L3Z-6049-BA (LH). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303- 01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.