Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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Your overthinking this. It should not matter. In a N/A application you may have a point. And the only time this is N/A is idle, cruise and deceleration. Move your base idle speed up a bit and any surge should go away. You can also fatten up the idle circuit as well. What you are getting is called compressor surge, which is typical in positive displacement S/C applications. A larger by-pass valve may help. If you can, bypass from the cold side to the inlet.
I am certain it's not compressor surge, I put on a shorter belt so the SC is not spinning and have my bypass opened with a vacuum pump. The car won't idle down past 1300rpm afr of 13.6......
I will try the bypass from the tb to cold side.
If it still has an IAC valve, that could need some cleaning or replacement. Either that or your Mega whatever engine management system is not set up right.
I ask is brand new and idle just fine before I move the throttle body. This is also with the IAC unplugged setting idol with a FRPP idle control plate
Now I mean no offense but the tune is fine, will it need tweeking yes but the car should idle.
Now after looking at some pictures of cars with similar setups (supercoupe) they positioned the bypass so that air when in vacuum only has 1ft of travel or so to reach the plenum not 8ft +Ic. So my test today will be to put in a short path bypass.
Now after looking at some pictures of cars with similar setups (supercoupe) they positioned the bypass so that air when in vacuum only has 1ft of travel or so to reach the plenum not 8ft +Ic. So my test today will be to put in a short path bypass.
Yup.
Oh and I think I found the problem too..... I forgot that the bypass was originally intended to blow off excess pressure (the up stream to was opened farther that the one at the plenum.)
Soooo guess which tubes are still flexible and crush under vaccum?
Oh and I think I found the problem too..... I forgot that the bypass was originally intended to blow off excess pressure (the up stream to was opened farther that the one at the plenum.)
Soooo guess which tubes are still flexible and crush under vaccum?
I just removed the SC and bypass out of the equation all together to test this. Same issue, lots of frustration. Lol.Yup.
Oh and I think I found the problem too..... I forgot that the bypass was originally intended to blow off excess pressure (the up stream to was opened farther that the one at the plenum.)
Soooo guess which tubes are still flexible and crush under vaccum?
So I am putting the tb back on the plenum until I get a different bypass worked out. I am going to reseal the SC while I am at it. One step forward two back.
I tell you what, if the thing ran really well with two throttle bodies, so be it. Its home made, so it doesnt have to model anyone's kit. Whatever works and makes it run well so you can enjoy it is what I would roll with.
I do agree with you there! I am going to roll na for a bit and get those tune areas dialed in better.
I was just hoping for less of a "cobbled together" look....
It does work but man its fugly
Well, had you shelled out a bunch of cash to a shop to fab up a kit, then yeah it would be fair to worry about the overall look. But being you have made it out of scratch, for pennies on the dollar compared to supercharger kits, it works! On the flip side, some folks like @madmike1157 clearly get more enjoyment out of the build than the finished product, so maybe you enjoy sorting out the issues that come with refining your creation. Either way, its a really cool thing youve done with your car.
Thanks!
I would take more time on these things but having the car ripped apart is difficult. As I have no shop or even a garage for that matter. All of this is done in the yard, out of a tool shed....
OK so I ruled out tune (for now) and mechanical issues.
Put the tb on the plenum and without adjusting anything she started up and idled at 800rpm cold.
Hmm I don't know, lol.
I think the issue IS the bypass from tb to cold side. I also have some ideas beating around my head about using meth and deleting the ic..... it involves flipping the plenum and reworking the SC inlet.
HA! I can never leave well enough alone.
Put the tb on the plenum and without adjusting anything she started up and idled at 800rpm cold.
Hmm I don't know, lol.
I think the issue IS the bypass from tb to cold side. I also have some ideas beating around my head about using meth and deleting the ic..... it involves flipping the plenum and reworking the SC inlet.
HA! I can never leave well enough alone.
Lol. Naw I'm gonna just get it figured out the way it is now. I will be making a new SC inlet however, I may as well its going to be on the workbench anyway. If I got rid of the strut tower brace I could open up a lot of options.
How much rigidity do you think that brace adds? Would it be worth pulling off?
How much rigidity do you think that brace adds? Would it be worth pulling off?
I like that answer! The STB comes off and a new inlet with the TB being fed from the driver fender goes in. Then I will build a bypass tube between the new inlet and the cold side to test for idle issues (before I buy the relatively expensive mini cooper bypass) should look and perform better....
Then I drag out the oven from behind the shed I use to powder coat stuff.
Then I drag out the oven from behind the shed I use to powder coat stuff.
