Was originally with car and was rebuilt. After charging it worked great, was removed to get rid of all the A/C components and cut weight. Fits 64-73.
$100, located in Boerne TX, local pickup only.
Worked great when it was in my coupe, removed to put in an AOD.
-New neutral safety switch
-Includes 28oz, 157t, 10.5" bolt flexplate
-Includes dust cover
$200, located in Boerne TX, local pickup only.
Came off my 289 before I did an AOD swap. There's about 1-2k miles on the high-temp paint and it seems to be holding up well. 1-1/8" primaries, 2-3/4" collectors.
$100, located in Boerne TX, local pickup only.
Okay I guess that's my fault then. Let me try and spell this out a bit harder.
At the end of all the calculations and compensations if you're past 90-ish duty you're hosed. It doesn't in fact matter what RPM that you're at, if you required enough fuel to hit above the critical duty then either...
I saw this carousing the front page so I thought I'd poke my head in.
The furthest you can push a modern injector is about 92-93% duty at any RPM range. Beyond that what happens is that you start to lose resolution in your fuel map. Typically this means you'll be going lean but that's not...
PIKSHURE TIME!
comparison between the wore out stock springs and the new 620 grab-a-tracks:
This is really how badly the inside passage of the old timing cover was:
New springs in. Doesn't have the new shocks yet....I was just too damn excited to see how it would sit. This is also with...
ssshhhhhhh...don't ruin his excitement...It's like telling a kid there's no such thing as santa clause....and you're just as big of an ******* for doing either! :D
Well more of a boob job really....but you get the point :p
First things first...the 68' is going down to TX here in another couple weeks. She's had a few issues so i figured this would be a perfect time to take care of them before going cross country. She's currently all tore apart in the shop...
If you ever want to put in something "updated" for the dashes, check out a dakota digital dash. They're made over where I live and they're great quality. Couldn't tell if thats what you put in it or not, but i figured id give a shameless plug :)
saving up right now to put one in my '68...
believe me....stay away from them tickets...hahahaa. I've got a hard enough time as it is. The stripe is something like a california special through....
I think the black hood/trunk would go well with the vinyl...just me....
oan...WHY THE HELL DIDN"T I FIND THIS...
^^ ground loop On of your grounds isn't hooked up right. The same thing can happen on guitar pups and amps if i forgot to tie in one of my grounds.. :grin:
how many miles are on the engine? has it been rebuilt before? why is it being rebuilt?
personally the only way I'd NOT touch the crank is if it was rebuilt within ~10k miles, never had any oiling issues and the reason why i was rebuilding it was to put in different pistons/rods. Even then I'd...
okay so all i changed was the alternator. All systems were normal previous to this change. I made sure that there were no ground loops and that everything was properly hooked up and wired. Everything previously installed on the car came in a kit, matched sensors to gauges and everything worked fine.
i did think of that and i also was concerned about a floating ground issue but on an initial start up and drive, I get normal temperatures and functionality. The radiator also seems at the right "hand temp" after it hits 180* or so on the initial drive. Also the gauge itself would be thrown by a...
no no no....difference between heat soaking and sitting. I meant sitting for a good 45 minutes to an hour. The goofy thing is the temp never really comes back down. Even driving on a cool night it still will hang around ~200 or hotter and it gets better if I'm not "on the throttle". It fluxuates...
So, I'm hoping that this isn't "which one of these is not like the other" but I'll explain.
So, put a 3g on the stang (works AWESOME!) and previous to, i never had any cooling issues (e fans and aluminum radiator). would run about 180* idling around town on a hot (~90) day. Well after...
i would beg to differ on that one. Typically when you're up at 75% duty cycle on an injector you'll loose resolution in your fuel map. If you're pushing 55psi and already up at 80% duty.....I think you might need some bigger injectors
just out of curiosity what did you pay for the gauges? A local company called "dakota digital" makes a drop in dash that goes behind the stock bezel that looks AWESOME! ...they are a bit spendy tho...but it is a full digital unit with all the sensors included.