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Yes.

For a 300 hp 289 in a '66 chassis the only thing I would consider a "need" would be a dual-circuit master cylinder, for the safety-aspect in case of failure of a line or wheel cylinder. The 3.03 3-speed transmission was the standard manual transmission behind many a FE and 351W/351C, the 8-inch...

My GROSS horsepower estimate (at the flywheel) would be 160-180 depending on the camshaft used. You have a few issues to overcome, the first being a piston with a large dish. Also, if the engine has been previously rebuilt and bored oversize the chances of having "destroked" pistons with a...

One thing to do is make sure you have a Cleveland and not a 351M or 400.....

With a torquey 351 1st gear in a T-5 will be all but useless. I'd go with the Toploader and drop your rear gear back to 3.00's or 3.25's at most.

RAN S1 is a 3.03 Toploader THREE speed. The main cases are completely different between 3 & 4 speeds and not interchangeable in any way, shape or form. You want to make sure your 4-speed Toploader has a 14-inch tailhousing with the rearmost mounting holes for the shifter to avoid having to use...

I like the Alloy Metal Products replacement harnesses... correct color codes and connectors... a "plug and play" installation.

Make sure your 5-bolt manual transmission bellhousing is drilled with BOTH early and late TL bolt patterns.

Another couple causes of exhaust "popping" on deceleration is insufficient spark advance at closed throttle, typically the result of using timed (ported) vacuum versus full manifold vacuum for vacuum advance combined with a LEAN fuel mixture. Lean mixtures take longer to burn than rich mixtures...

By "quick steer steering box" do you mean the HCC-AW or -AX boxes? If you don't have the knowledge to adequately evaluate the components (rack block, ball guides, balls, sector shaft, etc.) and the tools to service (press, hand tools) and properly adjust the box when assembled (inch-lb torque...

If you have a 2V (2-barrel) intake you'll want an Autolite 2100, with the proper calibration for a '66 289. If you have a 4V (4-barrel) intake you'll want a 1.08" venturi Autolite 4100, again, properly calibrated or as an acceptable substitute, a Summit M2008 in the 500 cfm version. Proper...

Looks like throttle and kickdown cable brackets, to me.

Unless you have a "K" code there is no such thing, in the Ford world before the '68 MY, as "numbers matching". The "provenance" of the engine and transmission being original to the car can only be estimated based on the casting and assembly dates being within the "normally accepted" date range...

That's an Autolite 1100 made for a '65-67 manual transmission application and WITHOUT Thermactor emissions. It is equipped with a SCV (Spark Control Valve) and the distributor must be a Load-O-Matic unit.

The timing can also be affected by wear to the breaker plate and the advance "post". It doesn't take much for 3* of distributor advance. FWIW, my '85 HO likes 44* total (8* initial and advance plate set on the 18L side...old OE dual point).

one year ahead of you... groan.

Chances are that the BLU/RED is for the optional underhood lamp and the GREEN is the windshield washer pump.

Well, the arms, themselves, rarely wear out. The shafts and bushings can be serviced and the ball joint replaced. On the other hand, for ease of service, the entire UCA can be replaced. I picked up a pair of Dorman's on Amazon.com and am very pleased with them. On the other hand, if you're...

Gary Tayman conversion. http://www.taymanelectrical.com/

Cobra Automotive "Big Brake" kit front, 10 x 2-1/2 or 11 x 2 drums rear.