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I’m not on here much anymore, but love this thread. Here’s my Bullitt since I dropped it a touch.

Absolutely beautiful car! I’m not on here very much lately but happened to see this and I’m glad I did. Great work, I can’t stop staring! Congratulations!!

https://youtu.be/L9xfhHdm0e8

So I saw a video on YouTube lately where the guy said that 15x10’s with 6.50 backspace and 275/60-15’s fit his New Edge without fender rolling with just swapping in a ‘94-‘98 rear axle. His car was pretty low and looked great. Anyone else done this? Any advice? Thanks!

Step 1: figure out a realistic budget Step 2: body and paint. Not much worse than sanding dust and overspray all over your new interior. Step 3: Suspension Step 4: engine and trans Step 5: interior. Step 6: hide all receipts from the wife.

These intakes look neat however they were developed during the ‘70’s and don’t make a lot of top end power, the runners are very small. However the work well on the street and are unique which is enough to make them worthwhile.

That’s how the Torkers were built, the carb is angled to straighten out the runners, I guess.

I had one on my ‘65 years ago and it was fine. A slight bend in the linkage and worked just fine. Worked pretty well too and had the unique look.

My wife's Roush does the exact same thing, but only when the A/C is on. My Bullitt doesn't but no codes on either car. Weird but no codes and both cars run fine at all driving speeds so I don't lose any sleep over it.

I wouldn't be too quick to dismiss the Cobra/Bullitt brakes. I have an '01 Bullitt and My wife has an '02 Roush with the standard GT brakes and I can tell you the difference is night and day. In fact I just bought some Bullitt calipers (they aren't the same) for the wife's Roush to swap on the...

You can either buy step pins or run them down to a machine shop and have them turned down to fit the pressure plate. They aren't all that hard.

1968 is a change over year. All C-code cars got 289’s and I’ve had 3. All three had 289 blocks and 302 heads from the factory. Nothing different, all the heads of that type are pretty bad compared to modern aluminum heads. Also, I wouldn’t waste the time or money for 351 heads when you could...

I swapped my 351 heads for a pair of Edelbrock E-Street heads last year, About $1k to the door and picked up a good amount of mid range and lost several pounds. They're worth it in my book.

I see your point but are you suggesting that Ford engineers rely on bushing torsional loads to supplement spring rate? That’s a new one to me.

This is just kind of a general thing that applies to carbureted cars but if they sit, the diaphragm in the accelerator pump can rot. That’ll do what you’re describing so I think a rebuild is in order. If it were me, I’d order a rebuild kit and do it myself, it’s really not hard at all. I think...

I’ve always jacked mine up in the front by the A arms, one at a time and in the rear by the center of the rear axle. Lots of older cars have front sub frames bent to hell because older gas station hoists used them to lift with.

Inspect your yoke for grooves worn into it. If it has them, a speedy sleeve will make it good as new.

Used Type F for longer than I care to remember. Works fine

So, I’m gonna probably get some pushback on this but here’s a general thing that I do when lowering ANY car. First, yeah some Fox bodies sit nose high stock. Mine did and we bought it with 35k on the odometer so I know it was like that new. Next, when your springs arrive, measure the overall...