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Sounds like a PATS Issue, should not be flashing.

Glad you got it fixed OK. Its usually a hassle returning electrical parts.

Great deal. I like your wheels, I put those on my '95, hated those funky 6 spokers. I had 3 Fox's and loved them but the '95 was stiffer, better brakes, quieter etc. And then my '98 Cobra sealed the deal. Still. if I could afford a collection a Fox would be in it. That last picture says it all...

I click it off at the start of the trip, click on on freeway, hit traffic button off, traffic clears button on,off the freeway button off. Stop for gas, button off again. Back on freeway , button on and on and on.........

That would be nice. I only use OD on the freeway. Tranny will last longer without all that locking/unlocking driving around town.

You need air, fuel, spark at the right time. You need to verify what is missing here.

Drill it out then helicoil it.

Did you check for spark on that side?

No codes?

And blue too.

I usually try to get the basics out of the way first. Check replace spark plugs, COP's,air/fuel filter, check fuel pressure, compression test, vacuum leak check etc

If you can borrow/buy/steal a Factory Shop Manual there is a weath of information on all aspects of the wiring. There is a seperate wiring diagram book along with the others. The whole book is a godsend.

What engine lol. A bit more information might help,what car, year, stock, AT or MT. Fuel pumps? Again what is this? By the way welcome! The first thing I do on any car I get is to purchase the Factory Shop Manual, you get the money back if you sell the car(I even made money a time or to on...

I could borrow a 2002 Shop Manual, not sure if it is the same though.

Never heard that before, interested in what you find, good luck!

Is the pump running or not initially?

My understanding was the only way to get around the PATS was a tune, would love to hear of a way to bypass easily.

Changing the oil first right?

It should run fine at 195-210, putting in a 160 is a band aid at best, you need to figure out why that is. I would first verify the temperature with a known measuring tool/gauge before going too far, I like to start from good "knowns" before looking for the unknowns.

A long shot but did you check the crash switch? If you are going to drop the tank to R/R it, check the voltage going there before replacing it. A wiring diagram should show you the possible places to check for power w/o dropping the tank..