Search results

No hiss when selector is positioned between floor, def, vent, mix, etc. I get a few pumps of the power brake via vacuum stored in canister when engine is off. I followed the lines under the hood that run from pass firewall to passenger side vacuum tree, to across the firewall to the power...

I am losing brake fluid at quite a clip but no leaks are detected at the calipers or wheel cylinders and no leak is obvious at the master, though I suspect the master is to blame. Question is, besides the brake lines for the front & rear that connect to the master, there is one brake line on...

sorry wrong forum section

I got it back a few days ago and after performing well it got stuck in first dear in D. I drove it back to the shop using 1, 2 on the shifter. They returned it the next day saying it's all better now. Sticky valve. I asked what they did. They said they did nothing. Having cooled overnight the...

Anyone? Anyone...Bueller? Anyone?

Car drove fine for 5 miles then would not shift out of first in D from a stop...does shift 1-2 manually then in D coasts returned to shop this evening - they suspect: sticking valves in valve body. Kept car for investigation tomorrow. Now I saw on the receipt that he installed anew filter. I...

I ask the garage performing a rebuild on my C4 if the fluid would remain type F and they replied that for longevity reasons they will be using dexron 5. I have heard of dextron II or III fluid being used in rebuilds before but I have never heard of Dexron 5. Isn't that fluid synthetic? Can i...

Just got a call from AAMCO total price is $1388.- plus tax (No additional $600 charge unless I refuse the rebuild) this includes a replacement torque converter, a gear set for the pump and a bushing kit. I told him to do it. They plan to be done for the weekend.

Crap! Crap! Crap! I am thinking when I get the call from AAMCO regarding the results of the $600 tear-down, and they tell me that I need to pay more than $1100.- more, I'll just order a new unit with a TQ and put it in my self. Crap! Crap! Crap!

AAMCO has my '68 in their garage and for $600.- is pulling the and disassembling the tranny to determine if it needs more than a "soft" rebuild. If that is all it needs it will cost an additional $1100. They tell me all hard parts needing replacement will be extra including the TQ. They say...

Will the little particles and crud up in the torque converter contaminate my new rebuild of my 1968 C4? Aamco is doing a rebuild. They say they will "check" the converter and only replace if I need a new one! Opinions? Thanks!

I wanted to pass this along since it would have saved me a load of time... I had my car die on the road and had it towed to a shop who installed a new distributor and set the timing. Since then it cranked really hard and slow (unless the coil wire removed: then it cranked fast), it ran...

Are you runnin' a 180* stat? I have a 289 with a 180* stat and the higest I've ever seen is 190. But it always comes back down.

I'm pretty happy with this result. Here is a shot from behind. (Not on an angle)

Tips are mounted. Check out Pics I appreciate all the replies. Turns out the shop down the street worked the pipes from my existing 2" flowmaster system to accept the massive 3" 1967 Shelby tips under the valence. The shop did it for $75 labor and in under an hour!

I am in riverton, near philia.

Also, I'd wecome pics of your tailpipes, people. Bring them on!

I'm gonna hijack my own thread... I would like to know if you guys feel extending the pipes below the valance is sufficient, or would you trim the valance before hitting the shop? I am afraid of ruining the paint on the valance or ruining the valance by cutting wrong.

Ooops, I was afraid of that!!

That sounds good... will you file the rough edges? How about a trim moulding? Will you do without one, fabricate one, or buy one and cut the valance to fit?