1969 Mach 1 Brake Conversion

thobecat

Member
Sep 22, 2011
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I have a 69 Mach 1 with a 4 speed trans and manual drum front brakes that I bought a set of 1970 Cougar front spindles and power brake booster and proportioning valve from. I was researthing the Internet and have read different things on what all I need to do to make this work. I would just like to see if anyone on here has personally done this or had it done that way I can get it 1st hand on what I need to do. Any help appreciated.
 
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Tie rod ends have to be changed to 70 ends ,they are larger on the 70 spindles .You will need the disks for the 70 because the outer bearing is larger than the 69,the calipers are the same 69 -70 . The pedal bracket under the dash has to have a couple of the nuts knocked out because the brake booster has a stud that takes a nut from the inside .The fire wall has to be notched at the bottom of the hole where the booster arm goes through ,down about 1/2 inch ,you will see why when you set the booster in place .All in all ,a simple swap .
 
Tie rod ends have to be changed to 70 ends ,they are larger on the 70 spindles .You will need the disks for the 70 because the outer bearing is larger than the 69,the calipers are the same 69 -70 . The pedal bracket under the dash has to have a couple of the nuts knocked out because the brake booster has a stud that takes a nut from the inside .The fire wall has to be notched at the bottom of the hole where the booster arm goes through ,down about 1/2 inch ,you will see why when you set the booster in place .All in all ,a simple swap .
Thank you. I have been told you have to change the brake pedal or something because it has a pin or something in a different location. My car is a manual transmission with manual drum brakes all the way around.
 
Tie rod ends have to be changed to 70 ends ,they are larger on the 70 spindles .You will need the disks for the 70 because the outer bearing is larger than the 69,the calipers are the same 69 -70 . The pedal bracket under the dash has to have a couple of the nuts knocked out because the brake booster has a stud that takes a nut from the inside .The fire wall has to be notched at the bottom of the hole where the booster arm goes through ,down about 1/2 inch ,you will see why when you set the booster in place .All in all ,a simple swap .
Thank you. I have been told you have to change the brake pedal or something because it has a pin or something in a different location. My car is a manual transmission with manual drum brakes all the way around.