It appears that I have misplaced my naval lint. If you see it, please pick it up and put it into the in-box affixed to janitor's closet.
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Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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And on that note.... called the tech at Ron Francis. He asked if I installed their headlight relief relay when I wired it. I cannot say that I did.
He said that the symptoms as I describe them are exactly what I'd expect to happen when 4 halogen headlights are activated as a result of me pulling the switch in the circuit. Says the circuit breaker is tripping.I believe him.
He says I need this:
It's just a 40 amp relay, but it's obviously prewired w/ dongles, and it has the necessary instructions to tie it into the circuit. It goes between the switch output and the dimmer switch. But it is 50 bucks for a relay.
And I do have to take the whole dash top off to tie that relay in.
Yea....
I
He said that the symptoms as I describe them are exactly what I'd expect to happen when 4 halogen headlights are activated as a result of me pulling the switch in the circuit. Says the circuit breaker is tripping.I believe him.
He says I need this:
It's just a 40 amp relay, but it's obviously prewired w/ dongles, and it has the necessary instructions to tie it into the circuit. It goes between the switch output and the dimmer switch. But it is 50 bucks for a relay.
And I do have to take the whole dash top off to tie that relay in.
Yea....
I
- Mar 2, 2015
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Why not just wire battery power to a relay by the core support....then the switch would cut the marker lights on ( as normal ) but when the headlight wire gets power it trips a relay. That would take the load of the four hologens off the switch and circuit breaker.....fixing your problem.
Its a simple relay, battery fused power, ground, trigger, and output to lights.
Like we really believe that you'd tear the whole dash apart to put a relay in that circuit. You just like to make us think.....I'm cool with that.
Its a simple relay, battery fused power, ground, trigger, and output to lights.
Like we really believe that you'd tear the whole dash apart to put a relay in that circuit. You just like to make us think.....I'm cool with that.
But why would you come to a thread that is absolutely devoid of any naval lint asking if I'd seen your's?
Here,...let me redirect you to a place where the place is buried under it:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/forums/1979-1995-fox-sn95-0-2-3l-general-talk.47/
I'm not sure that I haven't already......After thinking about it,....the lights flicker even if I pull it to the first click and only engage the parking lights...there's something wrong,..I've gotta pull the dash top off. (I'm not kidding)
That sounds like a loose connection in the power feed side of the circuit. The push on tab connectors are prone to that sort of thing.
Yeah,...and that is why I gotta pull the dash top I'm afraid. The spade lugs that are pushed onto those pins (especially the power and ground) may be able to be seen/accessed through the hole that I already have in the top piece (I'm hoping).
I'll see when I get a chance to tear into it.
You can probably go to the pull a part and find a van or jeep with a little metal bracket that holds 2 or 3 relays, plus the relays, plus a few feet of wire for something like $9.31 and wire it up yourself. WHEN I ever get to my rewiring project I am going to relays for the headlights.
Let me think about that now Droop,.......
Or,.........Going to Advance........and just buying them both off the hook for 15 bucks.
Give me a minute....
Where'd I put that thing?............oh yeah!!.....Here it is.
Thanks,.....,...I intend to install the relays,...(I'm positive that the panel already had one integrated into it), but evidently,..the halogens may draw more than the relay is rated for..
See.......^^^^^ they're already there.^^^^
I'm pretty sure that (Like @jrichker said) I've got either a loose connection,...or a defective switch. The lights flicker even when the parking lights are on.
If you know the watts rating for the light bulbs there is a formula to convert voltage and watts into current.
If you have the light bulb part numbers, Google them for electrical specs and it should include the hot current draw. Keep in mind that there is a hefty surge when an incandescent light turns on because the cold filament draws a lot of current to heat it up so that it puts out light.
If you have the light bulb part numbers, Google them for electrical specs and it should include the hot current draw. Keep in mind that there is a hefty surge when an incandescent light turns on because the cold filament draws a lot of current to heat it up so that it puts out light.
Let me think about that now Droop,...........Me,.....grubbing around in a JY for (2) 4 pin relays...
Or,.........Going to Advance........and just buying them both off the hook for 15 bucks.
Give me a minute....
Where'd I put that thing?............oh yeah!!.....Here it is.
Dorman? Really? It'll last shorter than the trip to the jy to get one off a minivan.
You could at least use your new found Amazon prowess and buy one there...preferably one with either a resistor or diode.
Business as usual then?
I go downstairs about an 90 minutes ago trying to figure out my flickering lights. The wife is away in DC participating in the 3 woman march tomorrow, so that leaves me alone tonight.
So what better opportunity would I have to figure it out then?
I remove Winkin (the gauge pod) and through a small hole on top of the switch stick my fingers on top of the wiring going into the switch and wiggle the wires....I'm able to make the lights flicker.
Perfect,...I gotta remove the rest of the dash now.
The dash top is is a btch to get off. Now that there is all of that junk under there I cannot see the three bolts that hold the dash top on. So,...I send in the marines to get to the bolts..
After that the dash is off in about an hour, fully exposing the top of the light switch. I stick my fingers back on the wires in an attempt to duplicate the flicker, and fix the loose connection, only now the thing wont flicker. I remove the whole switch from the dash....and try as I may..that freakin switch will not break contact... so I give up,..come back here and write...
Now what? There is just no freakin way that this short isn't in that switch. No freakin way that I was touching a wire and simultaneously the actual short is somewhere else?
I go downstairs about an 90 minutes ago trying to figure out my flickering lights. The wife is away in DC participating in the 3 woman march tomorrow, so that leaves me alone tonight.
So what better opportunity would I have to figure it out then?
I remove Winkin (the gauge pod) and through a small hole on top of the switch stick my fingers on top of the wiring going into the switch and wiggle the wires....I'm able to make the lights flicker.
Perfect,...I gotta remove the rest of the dash now.
The dash top is is a btch to get off. Now that there is all of that junk under there I cannot see the three bolts that hold the dash top on. So,...I send in the marines to get to the bolts..
After that the dash is off in about an hour, fully exposing the top of the light switch. I stick my fingers back on the wires in an attempt to duplicate the flicker, and fix the loose connection, only now the thing wont flicker. I remove the whole switch from the dash....and try as I may..that freakin switch will not break contact... so I give up,..come back here and write...
Now what? There is just no freakin way that this short isn't in that switch. No freakin way that I was touching a wire and simultaneously the actual short is somewhere else?
Expecting a leaky windshield? Just kidding...I just see all the weatherpack connectors! What else do you expect? When you take the new car to the dealer and say the blinky and winky and are not winky and blinky when I don't wanty, it never does it. Until the dealer says we can't find the problem and you leave. 10 miles away blinky and winky wonk the fark out again. I work on electronics. I have see MANY bad switches and relays. I have see ONE bad wire...it was over the top of a fuser section, so pretty hot. The zip ties were too tight. Over time the zip tie broke the wire. Of course it took about 4 visits to find it. Replace or rewire the switch, energize thru relays, have a drink!
One thing I will say about D. R. Trump. He's 70 and has a smoking hot wife who is 46. Dammit, I am older than her. Now, I feel my mid life crisis coming on.
I just sat and watched the inauguration replay on CSPAN a while ago. I'm no professional lip reader, but I swear I could see Bill mumble to Hillary, you stupid twat, you lost to H I M!!!
One thing I will say about D. R. Trump. He's 70 and has a smoking hot wife who is 46. Dammit, I am older than her. Now, I feel my mid life crisis coming on.
I just sat and watched the inauguration replay on CSPAN a while ago. I'm no professional lip reader, but I swear I could see Bill mumble to Hillary, you stupid twat, you lost to H I M!!!
.So you realize how much easier this switch problem would be to fix if you'd just pull that windshield?...
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