Fox 1991 302 Fox Running Hot

Adam B

New Member
May 22, 2016
3
0
1
I have a 1991 LX with a 302 with B cam, C4 trans. Just a basic bolt on car with nitrous. When the car sits at idle for about 10 minutes it will get up to around 230-250 degrees. If you run it down the road it cools down some but will warm back up, even when cruising at speed it will get back up to 220-230 degrees. The car has new headgaskets, new water pump, electric fan, aluminum radiator, new thermostat, new radiator cap. Is there something I could be missing here? The car isn't loosing coolant, the top radiator hose will suck itself together sometimes after the car sits after driving it but not all the time.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


if the car runs hot at idle or in stop and go, then it is most likely an air flow or water pump.

A few questions
1 was all the air burped out of the system
2. what fans are you using
3. are you running underdrive pulleys
4. do you have an overflow bottle
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
if the car runs hot at idle or in stop and go, then it is most likely an air flow or water pump.

A few questions
1 was all the air burped out of the system
2. what fans are you using
3. are you running underdrive pulleys
4. do you have an overflow bottle

I thought water pump too, this is the 3rd one we have changed. No underdrive pulleys, I did delete the A/C though. Yes, there is a overflow bottle on the car. I have a attached a picture of the fan on the car, I am wondering if it needs a better shroud? What is your process on burping the system?
 

Attachments

  • fan.jpe
    fan.jpe
    31.5 KB · Views: 137
I thought water pump too, this is the 3rd one we have changed. No underdrive pulleys, I did delete the A/C though. Yes, there is a overflow bottle on the car. I have a attached a picture of the fan on the car, I am wondering if it needs a better shroud? What is your process on burping the system?

that fan is most likely your problem.
1. it doesnt cover 1/2 the surface area of the radiator
2. there is no shroud
3. I bet it doesnt pull sufficient CFM You want at least 2500 cfm. The stock clutch fan pulls 3000.

I didnt ask about A/C delete. If you are running an underdrive crank and water pump pulley, remove them and put the stock ones back on. They are a waste of money and cause cooling problems.

EIther put a stock clutch fan back on or get a mid 90's v6 3.0liter Taurus fan and a flex a lite 33054 controller, and I bet your problem will be solved.

These cars are nottorious for trapping air in them If you don't burp the air out of the system. Go and get a Lisle funnel and then with the car cold

  • using the proper cap opening adapter attach it to the radiator opening and fill the funnel up with 50/50.leave the plug for the funnel out
  • start the car, turn the heat and fan on high and let it get up to operating temperature. it will take a few minutes
  • when the thermosat opens, you will see the level drop in the funnel when the thermostat opens and bubbles come up.the upper hose will be hot when the stat opens
  • fill the funnel up as needed. do not let the funnel drain out or you will suck in air
  • when the system does not produce any more bubbles, turn the car off
  • put the plug into the funnel and remove the funnel
  • put the radiator cap back on the radiator
  • you are done

Much easier than having to jack up the front of the car
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I agree with mikesstang63 buy the Lisle funnel and do what he suggests!
My 5.0 was doing the same but used Lisle funnel 1 morning and was amazed all bubbles that came out and it took me about 45 minutes to clear air bubbles out. Now my mustang has no cooling issues only when sitting at light for long periods of time and I mean long periods of time!!
 
Did the Taurus fan and FAL controller. Seems to have fixed my cooling problems. Let the car sit outside at idle for an hour and it never went over 180*.

Thanks