2003 Gt Just Purchased Vortech Kit

[rockyracoon]

Ok so what else do I need ? tuner, injectors and fuel pump.

I saw remanufactured 36 pound injectors on ebay for 80 bux, will these work ? could I get by with 24 pounders if I keep the boost low ?

should I get a focus svt pump ?

what about a MAF meter do I need one wit the IAT or should I wire one in separate.


also I am thinking of getting an sct tuner but my question is can I go with a custom tune from bama or do I definately need a dyno tune ?

my existing tuner is a superchips which is not capable of using custom tunes.

please keep in mind that money is an object. especially after spending 1900 bux for the used kit.

what about making the hole in oil pan for drain line. I would think pan removal would be in order but that necessitates removing engine.

 

[jivepepper]

36lb will get by you by at 6-8 psi but barely. I would go with 42lb. You do not have to remove the pan. you need a tuner, maf without iat and wire it separate and a fuel pump followed by a good dyno tune. Vortech has install ins online.

 

[Three50won]

There are many ways to do it. Jivepepper mentioned a good way. You don't necessarily have to run a separate IAT. It is more accurate, but at 6-8 psi boost it isn't necessary. As of right now I am running my IAT in with the MAF as it came stock that way. I could switch it to run separately as I already have the wires ready but it is ok for now.

36 pounders are good for 8 psi. That is what comes standard in Vortech's kit with the 3.60 pulley. You could go on Ebay and get some 39 pounders for like $99 shipped all day. The general rule for fuel injectors is to multiply the injector by 10. So 8 36psi injectors should be good for 360 hp. 8 injectors at 39 psi are good for 390 hp. Of course you want some room to play with and you don't want injectors more than 85% of their duty cycle especially for a forced induction engine so I would say stick with 39s for now.

You will need a bigger fuel pump. Go with a minimum 255lph. Some companies offer 290lph, 315lph, and bigger. They all are good and will work fine. But make sure that you do not go WOT with less than 1/4 tank of gas. You WILL have catastrophic engine failure if you do. Our pumps sit in a basket. And our tanks are not baffled properly to keep the pump surrounded by fuel. So when the tank is around 1/4 full, a 255lph or larger pump at WOT will actually suck the basket dry before more gas can flow into it. This will drop your fuel pressure and you will damage your pistons, valves etc. So if you're going to take it to the track or get on it on the highway, do not do it with less than 1/4 tank. And I would be careful even with less than 1/2 tank.

And for the MAF meter, the stock one will peg at WOT and you'll bog down on acceleration. So get either an aftermarket MAF "calibrated" for the fuel injectors you'll be using or get a Lightning MAF and run 42# injectors. If you go aftermarket, I would recommend SCT BA or PMAS or Pro-M. Ihave used all three and they all run great. I currently have the SCT BA2400. It can be used with any size injector.

For tuning I recommend Sniper SF. You can write your own tunes and as many as you want. You can hold up to 5 tunes in the interface at one time. You can customize the tunes you write as well. It is super easy to use. And there is a forum that you can go on for suggestions and help.

 

[Three50won]

As far as the drain line, I just drilled a hole into the oil pan under the crank pulley far down enough to clear the pulley. And then I ran a rubber grommet into the hole and pushed the drain pipe into the hole. It isn't ideal or perfect, but so far it has held up with DDing and has not come out at all. I usually open the hood and check it every day to make sure.

 

[Mattstang04]

I ran a SVT focus pump but needed a JMS fuel pump booster until the SVT pump burned up. Then switched to a Steeda fuel pump with a JMS fuel pump booster hooked up but not really boosting the pump. The Steeda pump didn't need it.

I used a Lightning MAF with a MAFia voltage booster (had the IAT run separate into the intake tract) initially (The MAFia burned out) then switched to a slot style SCT5000 MAF in a billet aluminum 3" housing (IAT was integrated in the MAF on this setup). I had a blow through style MAF though.

I heard a lot of guys tapping the pan with a tap that's dipped in bearing grease to trap the metal shavings. Flush the pan with a couple of junk quarts of oil afterward and you should be alright.

I used 39# injectors but would recommend going with the 42s. They're more common and tunable.

Let me highly highly recommend you get a dyno tune. This is very important to ensure the correct amount of fuel is being fed. Box tunes are great for the slow drive to the tuners. Dyno tunes keep your engine from blowing up.

I was running a Procharger with 9 to 12 lbs. of boost on a stock internal 2V engine.

Good luck. You will love the power.

 

[84Ttop]

255lph intake with a 255lph pusher (t-rex) is what I would like to see on a blower setup. 42lb injectors with a matching meter and custom dyno tune. Do yourself a favor and don't mail order tune this car. Any competent SCT dealer/tuner should be able to tune this car in a day with satisfactory results. I do not recommend trying to tune yourself without a background or knowledge in doing so.

As far as tapping the oil pan, there is a procedure for this outlined in the instruction manual. You will need a small drill bit and a punch to start the hole followed by a 3/8" npt tap. I do not suggest you use a rubber grommet in the pan or drill a hole bigger than 1/8" in the pan to start the hole... Rubber degrades when in contact with any petroleum based product unless it is specifically formulated to withstand it. (ie BUNA rubber seals). If you need tapping instructions I will be more than happy to get them for you.

 

[84Ttop]

As far as the drain line, I just drilled a hole into the oil pan under the crank pulley far down enough to clear the pulley. And then I ran a rubber grommet into the hole and pushed the drain pipe into the hole. It isn't ideal or perfect, but so far it has held up with DDing and has not come out at all. I usually open the hood and check it every day to make sure.

Seriously? This should be the indicator that you should worry about your installation technique...

[QUOTE="Three50won, post: 8928384, member: 163396". But make sure that you do not go WOT with less than 1/4 tank of gas. You WILL have catastrophic engine failure if you do. Our pumps sit in a basket. And our tanks are not baffled properly to keep the pump surrounded by fuel. So when the tank is around 1/4 full, a 255lph or larger pump at WOT will actually suck the basket dry before more gas can flow into it. This will drop your fuel pressure and you will damage your pistons, valves etc. So if you're going to take it to the track or get on it on the highway, do not do it with less than 1/4 tank. And I would be careful even with less than 1/2 tank.[/QUOTE]
Not quite sure where you read this but your statement here could not be more false. There is no issue running one of these cars with tank under any particular level.... As a rule I like to keep the tank in my car full to reduce condensation while it is sitting but that is it.

 

[Three50won]

Seriously? This should be the indicator that you should worry about your installation technique...

Well, you don't have to like how I did it. You can criticize it all you want. I didn't do it hoping you would approve. After I drilled the hole, I noticed how thin the oil pan is. And I tapped it and saw that there was no way I would be comfortable that the 2 threads you'll be able to make IF you're lucky would be able to hold up. So I got some grommets, placed it in, put the threaded fitting thru, secured it, and it has not so much as dripped. And the amount of force you'd need to remove it, well I just don't see it coming out even under spirited driving. And guess what? It has been like that since last year and I have not had a problem at all. And despite your view of it, most of us with highly modded engines who turn our own wrenches do things like pop the hood, check fluid levels, make sure everything is good daily as it is recommended to. It takes less than a minute. If you check your owner's manual, you might see where it advises you to inspect your car daily.

 

[Three50won]

And just so you know, I DD my car everywhere including 30-40 min drives to work in all kinds of weather. I've not had one issue with my setup. Sometimes someone figures out a new way of doing things. Instead of criticizing it, maybe you should try it. I've learned many lessons that way. I learned many times that going by a specific set of instructions or by a certain install manual was not always the best way. And I've learned many ways to do things quicker and better than most of us would think. And sometimes it is the simplest of things. I personally am always open to new ways. If it isn't your thing, then fine. To each their own. But it has worked for me, it still is working for me, I am completely comfortable with it, and I would do it again if it came to it.

 

[84Ttop]

And just so you know, I DD my car everywhere including 30-40 min drives to work in all kinds of weather. I've not had one issue with my setup. Sometimes someone figures out a new way of doing things. Instead of criticizing it, maybe you should try it. I've learned many lessons that way. I learned many times that going by a specific set of instructions or by a certain install manual was not always the best way. And I've learned many ways to do things quicker and better than most of us would think. And sometimes it is the simplest of things. I personally am always open to new ways. If it isn't your thing, then fine. To each their own. But it has worked for me, it still is working for me, I am completely comfortable with it, and I would do it again if it came to it.

I'm glad it has worked out for you. My statement was not meant to come offor in a condescending manner. I was making remarks as to your methods especially after I was under the impression you were uncertain of the installations longevity.
I have installed over 100 of these setups over the years and most recently tapped the oil pan on my 2015 when doing some product development with Vortech. I'm not saying that your wrong here, just pointing out the potential for a leak down the line as your method is contrary not only the instructions but thousands of installations that have been successfully performed.

And no, unless I drive over a pile of parts there is no reason to open the hood lol

 

[Three50won]

I hear ya. Thanks for clearing that up. Initially I was uncertain of it when I first thought of it. But when I finished it and gave it a few tugs I noticed how sturdy it was. So I started the car and let it run and it held. Then I drove around my parking lot and checked it and it held. Then I drove up the road and it held. And like I said, I pop the hood daily, maybe even twice a day just to peek under the hood and make sure everything is good. Not just with the oil return, I also check my vacuum lines, fuel injector connections, COP connections, belt, etc. Just to make sure everything is good. It literally takes less than a minute. And with the oil line I sometimes just visually check it, sometimes I pull on it a few times to make sure it is tight, and sometimes I remove it completely to look at everything and then I put it back in. Look at it like this, with the Vortech head unit completely secured to the engine, if you use just the right amount of hose, the head unit will actually secure the hose and keep it taut. And the grommet I used fits just perfectly. It is grooved so the diameter of the oil pan sits right in the groove holding it in place. And the fitting for the oil drain is just big enough to push into the grommet and to be held there. I'll snag a pic one of these days.