5.0 Badge Help

Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by tylor thomas, Aug 10, 2014.

  1. Im looking for badges for my 2011 5.0. Its proving to be difficult finding badges anywhere. I really need the trunk badge but the only one I saw looked like it wouldnt hold up and the rest are over 150 bucks. Any suggestions.
     
  2. Try cj pony or autobadges
     
  3. I've been looking for a black out rear GT badge myself and haven't found anything I like. Seem to not be much of a selection out there.
     
  4. Why don't you plasti-dip your existing badge just to see what you think? It's a very inexpensive experiment.
     
  5. I've always been to chicken to try it. I know as much as I shake I'd screw it up.
     
  6. plastidip looks terrible IMHO i tried it and the flat black just didnt match the gloss black smooth of the rest of the deck lid and i apparently suck at plastidipping because when i tried to gloss over the flat black it turned out textured
     
  7. Shaking limits excess build-up and drips…Go for It…!
     
  8. Naturally, flat black will not match gloss black.

    The paint textured developed from chemical reaction causing the first coat to rise up off of original surface. First coat wasn’t cured out 100% before second attempt with different chemical base paint (gloss).

    It’s not rocket science, but it is chemistry…lol.

    Unless you use a paint oven at 140 degree F for 90 minutes it may take several days for general purpose type paints to fully cure properly at room temps. When a manufacture says dry to the touch in 15 minutes only refers to not leaving a fingerprint. Dry and cured are not the same. Remove the paint and use 36 grit sandpaper to scuff emblem surface. This will improve paint adhesion.

    Probably at this point you’ll need to replace it nonetheless, so what’s to loose.
     
    StangLoveHate likes this.