Let me start off by saying that I'm new to the site and to the mustangs. I recently got a 97 gt and yesterday I pulled the intake manifold do to the tstat housing leaking badly. The car is mixing oil in the coolant as well. When I pulled the manifold off I noticed a bunch of blow by. Then I removed the gaskets and they are shot. while doing all this the two bolts that hold down the water neck where broke off already and the very last on in the head broke off so it was never sealed correctly. I want to do the pi head swap and a qualifier intake manifold. I get my hands on some 5.4 pi heads for dirt cheap but what all do I need to do for this head swap or can I get some pi to npi adapter plates to run the pi intake on mine. Thanks in advance
5.4 Pi Heads On Npi 4.6 Block
- Thread starter fl97gt
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The 5.4L 2V and 4.6L 2V PI heads are the same. Swap em over and pick yourself up a PI car intake manifold and have at it. Keep in mind, truck heads will be Windsor heads and you've got a Romeo engine, so you'll probably need the valve covers they came with too.
squeak93
15 Year Member
I believe 2v heads are the same 5.4 or 4.6.... Someone may correct me on that as I'm not 100% sure. I've not pi swapped or researched in a long time. You will want the romeo heads vs the Windsor for ease. Both can be used but the romeo heads bolt right onto and use your existing covers etc without issues (I can't even remember the differences anymore) Count the cam cover bolts to see which ones they may be (again, can't remember which counts for which set up but a google search will clear that up easy).
After typing all of this, I realize I'm not much help haha. Good Luck!
EDIT: Tree'd by gearbanger.
After typing all of this, I realize I'm not much help haha. Good Luck!
EDIT: Tree'd by gearbanger.
Thanks guys. I found a set of pi romeo heads for 100 a piece and they are of a 2001 gt. So I may go that route and get the qualifier intake manifold and maybe a set of predator cams. Any insight I found the predator cams for 300 and some comp cams stage 1 for 400 which is better and will work on stock heads with out changing the valvetrain
Stick with the stock OEM PI intake manifold. The price is right and the quality is there. I haven't found an aftermarket intake yet that will match it's performance per dollar....especially on a stock car.
Cams for these engines without a slew of other mods....are a waste. If you just want to hear the "lumpy idle", then go ahead and drop the coin, but without other equally expensive bolt ons to support them, you aren't going to gain a whole lot more than noise. Most bolt ons in general are kind of a waste for the 2V modular engine IMO. The 4.6L engine isn't a great bang for the buck N/A performer. Sure, you can make em move if you've got a few thousand dollars to spend on every bolt on imaginable and weeks worth of time and frustration to do it.....but when you think of the cost per horsepower ratio, you'll have been further ahead just saving for forced induction.
A supercharger may sound like a big expense, but take it from someone who's been there.....you'll end up spending the same damn amount on frustrating bolt ons....only with the blower, you'll get real results! Instead of squeaking out 40-50rwhp with bolt ons, you'll add closer to 120-130 (very satisfying) horsepower with the blower....and won't harm your drivability or mileage on top of it all.
Cams for these engines without a slew of other mods....are a waste. If you just want to hear the "lumpy idle", then go ahead and drop the coin, but without other equally expensive bolt ons to support them, you aren't going to gain a whole lot more than noise. Most bolt ons in general are kind of a waste for the 2V modular engine IMO. The 4.6L engine isn't a great bang for the buck N/A performer. Sure, you can make em move if you've got a few thousand dollars to spend on every bolt on imaginable and weeks worth of time and frustration to do it.....but when you think of the cost per horsepower ratio, you'll have been further ahead just saving for forced induction.
A supercharger may sound like a big expense, but take it from someone who's been there.....you'll end up spending the same damn amount on frustrating bolt ons....only with the blower, you'll get real results! Instead of squeaking out 40-50rwhp with bolt ons, you'll add closer to 120-130 (very satisfying) horsepower with the blower....and won't harm your drivability or mileage on top of it all.
Ok I found the qualifier intake for 220 and the oem pi for 210 that's the only reason I was gonna get the qualifier. But I planned on doing 3.73 gears and the little stuff like tb cams header xpipe and possibly a 100 shot and 24# inj. with a custom tune. I was also looking at a turbo set up vs super charger
Gears, throttle body, cams, headers, X-pipe, 24lb injectors and nitrous with a custom tune is all going to run you well into the $3,000 range....and that's assuming you're doing all the labour yourself. Count on at least another $1,500 in labour otherwise. Adds up, don't it? And the nitrous is a great equalizer....but as the old saying goes....it's only making power while the bottle is full. 
Turbo set ups are not for stock 2V's IMO. Again, big expense, but small pay-off. Not to say the a turbo system isn't capable of making copious amounts of power, but you're limited to what your engine internals can take at that point.....which for the 2V modular engine is in and around the 375-425rwhp range. So unless you're prepared to spend another $2K building that short block, you'll be forced to run that turbo kit well below it's potential. That's a lot of money to spend, just to have to neuter the power adder in order to keep the engine alive.
A good off the shelf Vortech supercharger will hit those numbers easily and will cost you about the same as your above aforementioned bolt ons, and about $2-3K less than most quality turbo kits.
Not to mention the Vortech is proven, has an excellent warranty and with it's use of a self contained head unit is a much easier and less time consuming install than any slew of bolt ons or turbo kit could ever be.
The best part about going with the forced induction route first, is that should you decide to do a few "little bolt ons" later on down the road, you'll be rewarded with much bigger power gains. Where a throttle body, mid pipe and cat back swap may have netted you 15-20hp when the car was still N/A, it'll net you closer to 30-35hp after the car is blown.
I can't stress how much I think bolt ons for this car are a complete waste of money. You gotta go with what works, not with what's become most popular because it either A) worked on other model Mustangs, or B) is a less expensive initial layout than dropping $4,000 in one shot. If you haven't got the money to burn, you should leave the car alone. If you can't resist spending money you don't have, you might as well hit up the bank for a loan and get it done and out of the way. At least that way, you'll establish a credit rating while you're paying off your parts.
Turbo set ups are not for stock 2V's IMO. Again, big expense, but small pay-off. Not to say the a turbo system isn't capable of making copious amounts of power, but you're limited to what your engine internals can take at that point.....which for the 2V modular engine is in and around the 375-425rwhp range. So unless you're prepared to spend another $2K building that short block, you'll be forced to run that turbo kit well below it's potential. That's a lot of money to spend, just to have to neuter the power adder in order to keep the engine alive.
A good off the shelf Vortech supercharger will hit those numbers easily and will cost you about the same as your above aforementioned bolt ons, and about $2-3K less than most quality turbo kits.
Not to mention the Vortech is proven, has an excellent warranty and with it's use of a self contained head unit is a much easier and less time consuming install than any slew of bolt ons or turbo kit could ever be.
The best part about going with the forced induction route first, is that should you decide to do a few "little bolt ons" later on down the road, you'll be rewarded with much bigger power gains. Where a throttle body, mid pipe and cat back swap may have netted you 15-20hp when the car was still N/A, it'll net you closer to 30-35hp after the car is blown.
I can't stress how much I think bolt ons for this car are a complete waste of money. You gotta go with what works, not with what's become most popular because it either A) worked on other model Mustangs, or B) is a less expensive initial layout than dropping $4,000 in one shot. If you haven't got the money to burn, you should leave the car alone. If you can't resist spending money you don't have, you might as well hit up the bank for a loan and get it done and out of the way. At least that way, you'll establish a credit rating while you're paying off your parts.
squeak93
15 Year Member
1998 GT: I built this car for my wife's cousin, it runs like a top still and has had 200+ bottles through it.
NPI Shortblock, Pi swap, accufab tb/plenum, CAI, Long tubes, Hi Tech stage 1 cams, 4.10's and a 125 Zex shot hangs the wheels in our 2v. Granted it now has tubular k member, coil overs, rear suspension, 31 spline rear (shattered 28 stuff), built t45, but all those will be needed blower or not.
Runs 13.50's na and 11.90's on the bottle. It's a very simple engine combo that is reliable and makes power with the flip of a switch. However, he DOES wish he went with a blower after filling all those bottles.
NPI Shortblock, Pi swap, accufab tb/plenum, CAI, Long tubes, Hi Tech stage 1 cams, 4.10's and a 125 Zex shot hangs the wheels in our 2v. Granted it now has tubular k member, coil overs, rear suspension, 31 spline rear (shattered 28 stuff), built t45, but all those will be needed blower or not.
Runs 13.50's na and 11.90's on the bottle. It's a very simple engine combo that is reliable and makes power with the flip of a switch. However, he DOES wish he went with a blower after filling all those bottles.
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