86 5.0 Fox Body No Crank Issue (fusible Link/clutch Safety Switch)

The neutral switch is supposed to be on top of transmission drivers side, from what I've read. I haven't owned mine since 2000, that's when it was stolen/ stripped. It is getting close to Halloween, maybe a ghost is hiding your clutch switch.! Boooo!


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Lol no doubt, I wanna get this thing going so I can cover her in webs and giant spiders and :poo: for Halloween!
 
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Do you at least have the plugs/ wires that go to the switch in that vacinity? Did you buy this mustang with the non starting issue? I'll need to re read your first post. I thought only weird crap like this only happened to me!


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I reread your first post, this happened two days after you got it, so either your switch was removed, and bypassed, or it's got to be there, just don't see it. Happens!


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Manual cars of this era came with both switches.

It sounds like your clutch switch was bypassed. One thought: perhaps the bypass mechanism came loose and "un-bypassed" the clutch switch. If you mess around with the parts that are clipped together where my switch is in my picture, does that allow the car to start?

You could also determine if these clutch/neutral switches are the problem by using the OBD1 on-board diagnostics. There should be a sticky thread on the site that gives the directions for dumping the codes using the diagnostic connector. Be sure to put the car in neutral and push the clutch in when starting the code dump. The code you're looking for is code 67; this is supposed to indicate operator error by not having the car in neutral. If you get that error even with the clutch in and the shifter in neutral, then it becomes a lot more likely that a switch or bypass isn't working right. OTOH, if you don't get code 67, then the car should be happy with the transmission state, and that's likely not the cause of your no-crank condition.
 
It is a round plug with four pins that hangs down from the floor pan onbthe driver side of the trans. If the jumper isn't there, just jumper the red and white/pink wire. I used a female spade connector. It slips over the two pins perfectly, and then just taped it all up.

First off, thanks everyone for all the help, it's very much appreciated. So I am now a 100% positive the switch that is supposed to be next to the clutch is not there, so it must have been bypassed. Problem is theres a rats nest of harness and wire down there, I've tried to follow the pink/white wire from the ignition switch but it goes into a harness that's practically impossible to access.

Boosted, I do see the exact same blue/yellow wire in your photo, except it's got 2 wires going into a clip and one (also blue/yellow) coming out the other side, doesn't seam related thou. So boosted you mentioned jumping the pink/white wire and red wire, where exactly are you referring to? At the ignition switch or at the switch you described below the car? My car is on the road right now, 1" off the ground and can't fit ramp underneath and I do not have a jack (moving in a week to a place with a garage thou!! Dream come true!) but I can see the round clip, only it's got a white and black wire going into it, is this the one your talking about ?

It's either an issue with the bypass that seams to have happened near the pedals or the clip I can't access under the car! Close dammit!
 
Man just pull a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and bypass both switchs lol or if the wiring is all messed up maybe you can find someone used harnesses in a junkyard the neutral switch it's self is cheep might just try a new one I wish you luck with it man if you have to spend to much time under the dash it only takes a few minutes to take the set out
 
Man just pull a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and bypass both switchs lol or if the wiring is all messed up maybe you can find someone used harnesses in a junkyard the neutral switch it's self is cheep might just try a new one I wish you luck with it man if you have to spend to much time under the dash it only takes a few minutes to take the set out

Lol that's about where I'm at, I'd like to fix it rather than bypass it but I'm going to do that tomorrow and drive it like that until I get the garage in 2 weeks and can actually deal with it. Cheers! Also what gauge wire would you suggest ?
 
I agree run a new wire, bypass all of it. Worse case scenario, if you try to start it and it's in gear, car will jump forward a foot. Cars and motorcycles I grew up with didn't have any switches. We used to push shifter forward rock left to right and crank key. Ah the old days. Horsepower, no smog checks and 102 octane gas straight from pump.


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Sixteen is too small, a package of wire is under $10.00. It's just a trigger wire, that runs through a relay , namely your starter relay, but run maybe 12 guage, Buddy can he fuse this wire and still get full trigger power?


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We'll if your not going to go the own switches route, and you want to get it cranking again, run a fused wire, and be done with it. It never ceases to amaze me, the lengths a past owner goes to, because they didn't want to buy a replacement part. I looked up the clutch switch, it was $110.00 online. Maybe that's why he bypassed the switch, who knows? Let us know what you end up doing.


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I have some 16 gauge laying around, to small or what ?
The 16 gauge will be fine, control wiring for the starter solenoid is 18 gauge in the wiring diagrams. The starter solenoid control wiring is all low current , less than 5 amps.

18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.
 
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The 16 gauge will be fine, control wiring for the starter solenoid is 18 gauge in the wiring diagrams. The starter solenoid control wiring is all low current , less than 5 amps.

18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.

I've went out and picked up 12 gauge since the other guys said 16 is to small, now that I have both would you still advise 16 or should I use the 12? I also picked up a 12 gauge blade fuse link for 30amp fuse, is this okay even if I use the 16? Thanks for the help, mucho gracious!