89 5.0 World Class T5 Problems For Noob Help Me

spencer96

New Member
Jun 25, 2015
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Hey. I just finished my swap of an 89 5.0 mustang motor into my 74 datsun 240z and I do believe it has a world class tranny although I bought it from a guy on cl and you know how that goes. However I digress, I believe its gone bad or about to go bad really fast I cant tell but I believe its making a noise in gear kinda like a "tat tat tat tat" Its been popping out of first gear every now and then and when I go to shift really fast when stepping on it the gears grind like a mother ****. The "tat" noise never happened until just a few days ago. I down shift alot i dont know if it has caused it. But its loud not loud enough to hear while driving because the side pipes on the datsun make it hard to hear but I can hear it when I put the car on jack stands and start the car and put it into gear. I do also have a differential problem being that it makes a little click when i rotate the tires. Another thing I noticed is when using a stethoscope I could hear the noise in the rear end and the tranny.HOWEVER when looking and hearing closely I noticed that the noise is louder in the rear of the tranny then the diff. Also The noise is almost perfectly synced up with an output shaft wobble that you can almost not notice unless you just lay there looking and listening. The wobble is not in the rear end as I just made a solid diff mount for the rear end and the dif does not move at all during any acceleration including the input shaft on the diff. No shaking once so ever.
 
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Can't speak for the "tap, tap, tap" noise, but the popping out of gear and grinding between shifts is classic synchronizer gear/blocker ring failure. Happens with mileage.

Hope you didn't pay a lot for the trans, cause it sounds like it's due for a rebuilt.

Oh, and thread moved to 5.0L Tech.
 
I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are some resources:

See Tremec to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe Acrobat Reader DC Install for all versions

See Home | www.hanlonmotorsports.com or D&D Performance for parts

A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160-$200. It does not include any gears or shafts.

Home | www.hanlonmotorsports.com also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.

I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.

Alternate sources for the T5 rebuild video...
t-5 transmission rebuild video - Google Search

T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… T5 World Class 5 Speed Shims
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”

For Tremec 3550 and TKO's:
You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($40-$120). MSC Industrial Supply Co. | Find Power Tools, Hand Tools, Machine Tools & More P/N 06444129 cost was approximately $57 + shipping as of Feb 2013


The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.

Getting the car jacked up high enough to get the trans jack in and out from under the car was somewhat challenging. Since I didn't have a helper, getting the trans out of the car and back it was one of the more difficult things about the job. I built a trans jack out of 2x6's, some angle iron and a $25 floor jack. If I hadn't done that, I would have needed a helper or to rent a commercial trans jack. At 100+ pounds the Tremec 3550 was far too heavy for me to lift by myself.