Progress Thread 92 Coupe Resurrection Thread

[squeak93]

After two weeks of bs to get the prop valve plug I got it via snail mail today. Five minutes later I realized their supplier screwed up and cut the threads wrong. Lucky I had a extra stock plug I could modify. I did as suggested and drilled and tapped for a 1/8 npt pipe plug with crap I've had sitting in my garage this whole time. I'm exceptionally nervous about it but no leaks so far through the first few pedal pumps.


Overall I'm completely amazed at the whole LRS ordeal on this plug. To clarify I've bought tons of parts from them and will continue to buy from them. This has just left a sour taste in my mouth. I missed a yearly local mustang only event this weekend and it has caused lots of unneeded stress. Oh well. Live and learn and buy maximum motor sports next time.

 

[Boosted92LX]

After two weeks of bs to get the prop valve plug I got it via snail mail today. Five minutes later I realized their supplier screwed up and cut the threads wrong. Lucky I had a extra stock plug I could modify. I did as suggested and drilled and tapped for a 1/8 npt pipe plug with crap I've had sitting in my garage this whole time. I'm exceptionally nervous about it but no leaks so far through the first few pedal pumps.


Overall I'm completely amazed at the whole LRS ordeal on this plug. To clarify I've bought tons of parts from them and will continue to buy from them. This has just left a sour taste in my mouth. I missed a yearly local mustang only event this weekend and it has caused lots of unneeded stress. Oh well. Live and learn and buy maximum motor sports next time.

Sorry to hear you missed the event, man. Glad you got it together. An npt plug can hold thousands of psi. I think you'll be fine for now.. I'd still order the mm kit.

 

[squeak93]

Well I've got other major issues. Brakes still suck ass. Pedal is soft. We bled them many times. Has good clean fluid coming out. No bubbles. Pedal goes to the floor most times.

Interesting enough the car only makes 10 inches of vac at idle. Made 12 and I found one bad line. Replaced it and it only makes 10.


It has a bad oil leak and it appears to be from the lower intake in the rear. I guess I'll be pulling an intake and fixing all of that but I just have a hard time thinking it's why I have no brakes.


Will be putting an explorer intake on but it still sucks.

 

[squeak93]

Now that I've had time to pull my head out of my ass I realize I had to have air in the lines still. Turns out the dam rear hardline into the soft line was leaking bad. Turns out sn lines are metric and fox are sae. That or one was messed up. Took it apart. Cut off the old fitting and Installed a new one. Waiting for a brake bleeding partner again to see if my fix is good.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Now that I've had time to pull my head out of my ass I realize I had to have air in the lines still. Turns out the dam rear hardline into the soft line was leaking bad. Turns out sn lines are metric and fox are sae. That or one was messed up. Took it apart. Cut off the old fitting and Installed a new one. Waiting for a brake bleeding partner again to see if my fix is good.

Have you ever used the ol hose and mason jar trick to do it by your self? It's not hard to do. You use more fluid but it works.

 

[squeak93]

I'm not entirely sure I know what you're talking about.

 

[Boosted92LX]

I'm not entirely sure I know what you're talking about.

Get some hose that will push over the tit on the bleeder fitting on the caliper. This is what the tit is made for..get a clear glass or plastic jar you can see thru to look for bubbles.. fill the jar with enough brake fluid to keep one end of the hose submerged in the jar. This way, you can just crack the bleeder open and pump away without sucking air. When no more bubbles rise up in the jar, you are good, close the fitting.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Sometimes if you can't position the jar where you can see it, you can hear the bubbles in the jar. No air left, close the bleeder move to the next wheel.

 

[squeak93]

Well one problem fixed. Five more arose.

My rear calipers are hanging up bad. Odds are I've already ruined these rotors and pads. Wheels are so hot I can't touch them


We unhooned the parking brake due to it not working. Had to hit the caliper with a rubber mallet to get it to release. It did and wheels spin. Went for a two mile drive. Smelled hotness and came back. Rear wheels so hot I cannot touch. Rotors have burned spot


Why didn't I just reolace with a stock fing booster. Ugh.

 

[squeak93]

Man I had a bunch of typos above. Oh well.


So I think both rear calipers are bad. They were used and off if a car for a long time. They both seem to have the rear locked up.


Before I replace them tomorrow I'll pull the master away from the booster to ensure its not something simple and stupid like the rod being out of adjustment.

The rear rotors have obvious uneven scorched wear on them and hopefully didn't warp during the two mile failure of a test drive.

 

[squeak93]

Well I tested my theory of the master being pressed by the rods. No dice. They are still very tight.

I guess my only option is to replace the rear calipers.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Well I tested my theory of the master being pressed by the rods. No dice. They are still very tight.

I guess my only option is to replace the rear calipers.

I tried using old calipers also. Same results you had...If they've been on the shelf you can just about bet they are junk, because the bores rust. Wound up buying all four..the good news is you have the old ones for a core.

 

[squeak93]

Yes, I fear you are correct. When on jack stands with the car in d and brake pedal mashed the rears still spin.

So guess back to the parts store for more stuff and to bleed brakes again haha.

 

[mikestang63]

Yes, I fear you are correct. When on jack stands with the car in d and brake pedal mashed the rears still spin.

So guess back to the parts store for more stuff and to bleed brakes again haha.

really easy to rebuild the calipers. just pop out the old piston with some compressed air, emery out the caliper cylinder and piston, install some new piston seals and reinstall.

 

[squeak93]

I'll post pics tomorrow but we finally got it. New reman rear calipers. Lots of bleeding and still no brakes. So we bled the master again then re bled the entire system.

It threw us a curve ball. When the car is up on jack stands the car won't hold the rear brakes still (auto car). So we were ready to give up but decide to take the car for a test drive. Turns out it drives perfect. Stops in a dime and feels good.

It does sit too low so I'll look for non chopped springs (actual lowering springs). It's off to paint tomorrow so I've got time to source them.

 

[squeak93]

Here is the only pic of it out of the garage. I dropped it back off with the painter today. Hopefully in a week it can be close to time to enjoy.

I need a spring change as the chopped stock ones rub the front fenders in a bad way.

 

[squeak93]

Since the car sits WAAYY to low up front I broke down and ordered a set of FRPP C springs. I've always been a Sportline user but didn't want to risk them being as low as it sits now up front. I have a buddy with a coupe that just installed them and I love the ride height he ended up with.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Looks nice man


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

 

[squeak93]

Thanks! Once I get it back from paint and some real springs on it, I'll get some actual pics. (not that the petsmart parking lot doesn't count lol). It's been a chore and I'm not entirely sure I'm out of the woods on brakes and bleeding them. Something still isn't quite right but its plenty safe enough to drive for now. (or really sit at the paint shop lol)

 

[squeak93]

Well we "think" we've found the match or closest possible paint match. Our issue is I was told the car was race red (PQ). Well no matter how it was mixed or scanned to match, the red came out too "red" or maroon. So my painter decided to go to the color book (using the gas filler door for color match) and started flipping pages. He ended up finding Bright Red (1999 BMW color) as a very good match (using a painters daylight light etc). So they used it as a base and then scanned my part. It came back with a tiny amount of black added (.05ml IIRC) and had zero alternatives.

After looking at it on a stir stick next to the car both in the shop, in the cloudy light and direct sunlight it appears to be a dang close match. Likely as close as we will ever get without knowing who painted the car and exactly what color.



As a reminder, this is what PQ gave us, even with scanning the car


And just when I think I'm beyond my frustration level with the time frame etc, the guy goes and does something cool and helps me out.

The car (if you've read the thread) was a 5.3/6.0 LSX Turbo car 6-8 months ago. Made quite a bit of power, ran some 9's IIRC and was pretty sneaky. That owner parted it out etc. However when they installed the turbo they cut out the lower radiator support and made custom tubular stuff to support both a rad and intercooler. I had previously cut some of it out as it interfered with the bumper but there was still a piece hanging (main support at that) 3 inches lower than it should. The painter volunteer to go in and cut that out and weld in a piece of square stock so the bumper will sit correctly and I won't drag the hell out of it everywhere I went.

While it looks a bit "crude", it is never seen unless you're under it or working on it and it will do until this winter when we pull the motor and replace the entire core support.


I think we'll have the car back tomorrow eve, swap the springs and then re bleed the brakes. Per another thread I figured out I was using the FRPP proportioning valve incorrectly. Screwing in the knob all the way gives full rear brakes while we thought leaving it unscrewed (all the way out) was full. SO we were unsuccessful in getting all of the air out. Lesson learned and thanks frpp and LRS for no instructions.