92 Fox Project

Wreckchaser99

Member
Dec 6, 2013
39
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Hi Everyone,
I took my GT I purchased in November to the mechanic finally after the weather broke in the northeast. I have an oil leak from the back of the motor and wanted to do everything right as this is the car I'm keeping for the long haul. Mechanic said the motor and trans look good and are keepers and I just need to replace gaskets. I'm having him pull the motor and am having him replace all of them. While the motor is out I'm taking the car to the bodyshop I work for and am taking this time to paint the engine compartment. I have the normal wear and tear from a 22 year old car and some rust on the frame rails which this is my chance to take care of. I plan on doing a full repaint and jambing the car after the motor goes back in. Here is my questions: Other than the gaskets and replacing the clutch what else would be a good idea to do now while the motor is out and things will be easier? Also what kind of clutch would you recommend? I will take pics throughout the process and plan on doing this car right. Any opinions are appreciated.

Thank you
 
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any mods to the car? Dont forget the throwout bearing and flywheel when you do the clutch. If its stock, the oem clutch would be fine. Im pretty happy with my centerforce dual friction but its no race car.
 
I thought my '92 had a rear main seal leak when I bought it, turns out it was just the oil pan gasket. I had the shop replace it with the metal-impregnated oil pan gasket when they put on new long-tube headers. Anyway, make sure you have them replace the rear main seal when the engine is out. You definitely don't want that leaking after it is all back together.
 
Have them replace the stock oil pump with a new one and an ARP hardened shaft. I'd also look at the timing chain, water pump, all hoses, PCV valve and tune up parts.

Now, if you are feeling adventurous- while the motor is out is the perfect time to swap the top end- heads intake and throttle body with the top end from a 93-97 explorer.That will get you the GT40 heads, intake, and a 65MM throttle body. Swap the springs off the heads for TFS ones, throw on a set of pedestal 1.7 RR, and you will have a nice little motor that makes about 40 more hp than the stocker.
 
What about having the stock bearing retainer replaced and up-graded with a Steel Bearing Retainer. This is a Great up-grade over stock and Very Easy to do. Just unbolts and bolt back up. Here is one I found for you:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CFsQFjAA&url=http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7050/83-93-Mustang-T5-Steel-Bearing-Retainer&ei=CCZLU7_mG4jo2AWnh4CABw&usg=AFQjCNFvdQvg4f0UZFVLziJPThiNgS10Sw&sig2=tHfbBRBQAw7L5pRK3yoPiw

Also, up-grade to Better motor and trans mounts like the Polyurethane mounts. Don't forget to up-grade the clutch cable and stock quadrant with new cable and aluminum quadrant. A Firewall Adjuster for the cable would make it easier to adjust the cable without climbing under the car. Almost forgot about he high mileage input shaft bearing. Now would be the time to replace with a new one. Good Luck!!
 
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Decided to get rid of the AC and save the extra dollars and weight it would have costed. This is going to be a sunday cruiser and I don't plan on taking any trips where I would have to haveAC nor do I plan on driving it in the rain. So today I got the rad and condenser out and all of the ac lines which were seized together. Took the bumper off and apart, took the front sections of the ground effects off and unfortunately saw that the fenders were rotted under the ground effects. I also got the fenders off. Not bad for 2 plus hours worth of work. Next session I plan on getting the interior gutted so I can continue stripping the car and see how bad the floor pans are.