92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed

here are some pics of where i am at now. If i bypass the heater core i think i just need to tighten down the fuel lines to the bowl and fill it up with coolant and see what happens.

one of the pics i included is what my pickup looked like. you can see that i made it way to short.
 

Attachments

  • short pickup.JPG
    short pickup.JPG
    115 KB · Views: 154
  • carbed motor 1.JPG
    carbed motor 1.JPG
    132.8 KB · Views: 150
  • carbed motor 2.JPG
    carbed motor 2.JPG
    122.7 KB · Views: 147
  • image1(2).JPG
    image1(2).JPG
    106.5 KB · Views: 179
  • Sponsors (?)


heater core has been bypass.

I also spent some time on the hood. I have plenty of clearance but it just shuts like crap. But i did get it to latch much better so I have alot more confidence that it won't fly up on me if i ever get this thing going.

Question about my mechanical pump install. Should i have put some assembly lube on the arm of the pump before i put it in? i have cranked the car over a fair amount already. Should i take it back out and throw some oil or assembly lube on it?

I need to find two m18x1.5mm plugs to plug up the o2 holes. For some reason that is a little bit more difficult than i thought it would be. I have one last hardware store i can try but it looks like i am probably going to have to order them.

Is it possible for me to run some wire to my gauge cluster to get them to work or do i need to buy some aftermarket ones since i got rid of my wiring harness. Running one wire for my oil pressure and temp gauge i don't think would be to bad but i don't really know how i would hook them up under the dash. I would like to get either my gauges to work or some aftermarket ones just to keep an eye on things since i have had my hands all over this motor.

I also finally found a good spot to mount my duraspark box and coil. I am going to put in on the passenger side fender where the airbox used to be. Should have plenty of air flow to keep cool over there.

lots of pics tommorow and maybe even a quick startup.
 
not the exciting day i had hoped for. I got the duraspark box and coil mounted in a spot that i don't think looks to stupid. I still need to shorten a couple of the wires but i want to start it before i solder everything and make it look neat.

my big moment of hearing it start today will have to wait. I tried but it wouldn't start. i have fuel up the fuel filter just below the carb. I can smell a touch of gas so i am guessing it is all the way in the carb. I tried giving the pedal a little gas and it still wouldn't go. after giving that a couple tries i noticed my water pump was leaking coolant so I had to abort. it is coming from the to flat bolts on the motor side of the pump. I am guessing i didn't tighten them down enough.


I didn't have anyone else around so I couldn't check my timing by cranking the car over. I also couldn't check to see if i was getting any spark. Those two things will have to wait until friday win I can trick my wife into helping me for a couple minutes.



somehow i need to check if my duraspark is wired properly. The colors are not all the same as the factory wiring diagram i usually see.

this is the box i bought

Driveworks Ignition Control Module 21070: Advance Auto Parts

this is the distributor i got

Cardone Distributor - Electronic - Remanufactured 30-2895: Advance Auto Parts
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3423.JPG
    IMG_3423.JPG
    109.6 KB · Views: 143
  • IMG_3425.JPG
    IMG_3425.JPG
    100.4 KB · Views: 152
through my testing of the ignition stuff it seems my coil is good but i need to put a ballast resistor in. The ground wire going to the dist was fine but the other two looked to be off so i swapped them. When I was doing that i looked up how to test a distributor.

if you get a multi meter and connect one lead to the ground wire and the other lead to the body you should get zero ohms when you are on the 2k ohm. that checked out fine.

when you have the meter on the same setting but put the leads on the other two wires coming out of the dist then you should get anywhere from 600-1200. I was getting 580. pretty close to good but still out.

the last test you do is just like the last one but you change the setting on your multi meter to the 20v setting. With the dist out of the car you turn the rotor by hand and you should get at least 1 volt showing on the meter. I got nothing when i did this test. Returned the dist and will have a new one on Wednesday.

while i was double checking all of my basic things on the car like ignition timing and tdc i got into a major problem. when I tried to take the #1 plug out it snapped off. It was hard to remove so i did soak it in pb but even after half a day it still snapped off. i had to go to the store and get one of those reverse thread drill bits to remove the rest of the plug stuck in the hole. It worked perfect, super easy to do which i was happy about. I ended up tackling all of the plugs and four of them snapped trying to remove them. luckily that reverse thread bit saved the day. The previous owner DID NOT put any anti seize on the threads, let that be a lesson for other people to make sure you put that on the plugs when you change them. I got them all done with new plugs in and they all have anti seize, i should be safe for awhile at least.

my dist was dead and it seems when I re stabbed it my timing was off quite a bit. I now know how to get it at 8-10 btdc when i stab it back in so hopefully my car will have a better chance to light up and give me some time to get a light on it and really set the timing
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3437.JPG
    IMG_3437.JPG
    108.5 KB · Views: 154
my idea of getting this running during my mini vacation was a fail. :( I have another week off in the end of December so hopefully it is warm enough that I want to finish it up then.
 
almost forgot. It looks like my summit mechanical pump is leaking oil. I cleaned it up and will recheck to make sure it isn't the power steering pump dripping on it but I am pretty sure my brand new pump is leaking. that makes two brand new parts that have been doa
 
Autolite...or motorcraft... Good ole copper plugs. Typically, champions are for Mopar, autolites for Fords, ac delco for Chevy, Bosch for European, NGK for Asian. Platinum plugs generally don't do well in push rod motors either. Regular old cheap plugs work well. Gapping the plugs hotter or colder or going with a hotter or colder autolite plug is all that's needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Autolite quality is very hit-or-miss at times. I've got a good friend that owns a shop and won't install anything else that never seems to have problems with them. On the other hand, I sold Autolite for years, and the only thing that had a higher defect rate in spark plugs was those piece-of-chit E3s. The set of Autolite 25s I put in my '75 Thunderbird was among the problem plugs. I was driving down the interstate, hear a pop, then what sounded like an exhaust leak along with a vibration and huge loss of power. I pulled over and discovered that one of the plugs had blown out (just the porcelain and center electrode). Waited 20 minutes on someone to bring me another plug, changed it, and the next week another plug from the same set did the same thing. After the third plug did it, I swapped them all for Motorcraft, and only installed Autolites myself one other time (they were what was available for my sister's Suzuki).

I've never had a Motorcraft, NGK, Denso, Champion (no joke, I know everyone hates on them), or Bosch single-electrode plug returned (Bosch +2 and +4 are a totally different story). I've had one set of ACDelcos returned (and I shouldn't have taken them back, the dumbass refused to believe that not gapping them is what caused his issue), and a few dozen sets of Autolite and E3 over the years, and nearly all of them were from a plug blowing-out like that.

That said, when I've sold aftermarket parts, I've sold more Autolites than any other brand based on the price/value, though I've always recommended NGK, Motorcraft, Denso, or ACDelco if the customer could afford it. (I run NGK V-powers in my Mustang, and I've also run Accel and Bosch SuperPlus in it, they're the three that clear my headers).
 
I've been running autolites in all of my Ford products for 20 years. I've never had a single problem. None of my customers have returned with issues either. NGK vpowers..... Naw Man !
 
I've been running autolites in all of my Ford products for 20 years. I've never had a single problem. None of my customers have returned with issues either. NGK vpowers..... Naw Man !
NGK TR5, short enough to clear my headers, right heat range, really well made, and cheaper than Accel's header plugs that are just re-labeled Densos.

I have a set of Autolite 104s on the shelf for an engine I'm building for someone else though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!

this distributor checked out good. The other one even had a clunking noise that it would make in the stator area that i wasn't sure about either.

It wasn't an easy road. Brought the distributor home. hooked it up with what i thought was the new wiring that i need since the colors out of the box and the colors on the distributor are not the same color. still wouldn't start. i checked all my wiring. double checked my power are the coil. I had put in a ballast resistor that dropped the power to 5v so i thought that was it. I took that out and it still wouldn't fire. I ended up convincing the wife to give me a hand so i could check for spark. I ended up having spark which perplexed me even more.

I ended up having her trying to start the car while i was working the choke. for the first time it seemed like it wanted to start. we tried that a bunch more and actually got it kind of running while working the gas but it was farting out of the carb pretty bad. I immediately though the timing was out 180 but i made sure to be carefull when I re stabbed it to get it on the compression stroke and put it close to 8 degrees so it would start. the only other thing i could think of at the time was maybe the distributor wires were mixed up. I swapped them and bang, fired right up, and no more spitting through the carb. I only let it run for probably 10 seconds because i still need to put some coolant back in and i need to hook up the temp gauge to make sure it isn't running to hot.

my coil did get hot even with the little start so i hooked up the ballast resistor again. I made sure it would start again just to make sure.

every time i touch something i am going to make sure it starts again. there is nothing worse then changing a bunch of stuff and having a not start issue.

I also might take the rest of the gas out of the tank. It is pretty orangish yellow color so i am sure it is really bad.


yay me!!! major victory today!!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Went back out to start it up when it was cold to see if it is an easy start and it wasn't. I am only loosely putting on the battery cables because I am taking it in and out of my other car. Would a loose cable cause a hard start issue? It is turning over a bunch but just isn't firing right up. Plus the starter is sticking a little bit also. I may have been cranking it to much or it might be the loose cables.
 
Went back out to start it up when it was cold to see if it is an easy start and it wasn't. I am only loosely putting on the battery cables because I am taking it in and out of my other car. Would a loose cable cause a hard start issue? It is turning over a bunch but just isn't firing right up. Plus the starter is sticking a little bit also. I may have been cranking it to much or it might be the loose cables.
There's nothing wrong with the starter if it turns over the engine at the correct cranking speed.

You have a carb. It requires a " start up regime".

Typically, on an engine started cold, you'll have to depress the gas pedal fully to the floor once to properly " enrich" the initial start up. If you aren't doing that, the engine will crank all day, and never fire.
It's gonna be a trial and error process to find out what the engine wants to be able to properly fire, and then go through a warm up at a higher than idle speed. It may take only one swat of the throttle, it make take more than that. You'll just have to experiment. Be careful not to do it too many times though, or you'll flood the engine.

Is the choke working? If you got the carb I recommended, it'll be electric. Is it hooked up properly so that a keyed 12v energizes the thing, and it stays hot as long as the key is in run/ start?.

Once you get that car right where it'll start every time hot, it will take something like I described above to get it to start cold.