95 gt. The temp gauge has been acting weird going back and forth. When i first start the car it will work its way up to middle then eventually all the way to hot. So i get out and their is no steam or anything i even put my hand on the top of the engine and it isnt even warm. I have the advance set to 15 with 91 octane. All stock. All of my other gauges seem to work fine and i recently replaced my thermostat and have full coolant.
95 gt temp gauge problem?
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nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
Take off the radiator cap and just run it open for a while and let the thermostat cycle open and closed. Squeeze the upper radiator hose just to give any air in the system extra motivation to move. If that doesnt work you may want to hook up an aftermarket temp gauge just to see exactly what its doing.
Does it stay on "hot" once it goes up? What thermostat did u put in? Are you sure its opening?
Does it stay on "hot" once it goes up? What thermostat did u put in? Are you sure its opening?
i dont know what brand of thermostat i put in but i bought it at napa and it was the more expensive one. The guage will start out at cold then slowly work up to eventually getting to hot. But before my new thermostat was put it it overheated and was steaming and the guage didnt even read all the way hot. And now it reads all the way hot but i can touch the engine. when i turn off the car it goes back to cold and raises slowly.
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
Get an aftermarket gauge on there or replace the factory temperature gauge sender....
If the gauge reads hot, yet the engine isnt hot....then something isnt right. Is ANY part of the cooling system hot? Radiator? DOes it blow hot air?
If the gauge reads hot, yet the engine isnt hot....then something isnt right. Is ANY part of the cooling system hot? Radiator? DOes it blow hot air?
Sounds to me that the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) may have failed, or the connection is loose. The CTS is the brass sensor just to the right of the distributor. It has a black "L" shaped rubber plug on it. Inside the plug are two metal pieces that grip the CTS. Try to squeeze the plug so the metal pieces are closer together. See if that helps.
It would help if you had a code reader that can read PIDs (engine sensors, basically). You could then see the temperature that the computer sees. Where do you live, mustang11? If you're in Los Angeles somewhere I can help you out.
It would help if you had a code reader that can read PIDs (engine sensors, basically). You could then see the temperature that the computer sees. Where do you live, mustang11? If you're in Los Angeles somewhere I can help you out.
Sounds like it could be a blown head gasket. My gauge did the same thing when I blew the head gasket.
Kurt
Kurt
mine did the same thing when I replaced the thermostat because I didn't get the air out of the system. AS they said get the car up to temp with the cap off and squeeze the upper hose to work the bubble through that forms in that hose.
if that doesn't work then you can start throwing parts at it, but start simple.
if that doesn't work then you can start throwing parts at it, but start simple.
when i took the radiator cap off and drove it coolant shot out the cap all over the place. so i put it back on and drove it for awhile then the gauge went to hot again but no steaming from engine or anything still cool enough for me to put my hand on it. But when i parked i heard gurgling in the coolant resivoir. when i pinch the little hose that goes from the radiator cap to the coolant reservior it stops gurgling.
Oh man, You are supposed to sqeeze the upper radiator hose while you are driving it with everything spraing out.
just kidding DUDE, did I say anywhere in the instructions to drive it with the cap off? You are supposed to do all that with it idleing........
now go back out and fill yer radiator back up, check the coolant level and then repeat my instructions. This time just let the car idle until it heats up(with the cap off). DO NOT DRIVE IT but once you feel the upper hose heat up, just give it a couple of light sqeezes. That gurgling noise you heard was the air escaping. Went that bubble gets through the system, and back out the cap you should be fine.
SableSal
Member
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
i wonder if i have this issue. I recently changed out the stock manifold for the trick flow street heat manifold. Now my temp gauge reads from MA on the gauge to L it hasnt full over headed but its still never ran this hot before i swapped manifolds. Ill try the squeezing method tomorrow and see if that helps. ive also got a air leak in the back of the manifold because i couldnt get the bolt to tighten down all the way.
Any suggestions guys?
Any suggestions guys?
That doesn't mean you can't go to Home Depot or ACE Hardware and get a shorter bolt or several 5/16-18 bolts of various length and try them. The intake manifold doesn't take much torque to hold it in place.
If it is a stud, use 2 nuts on it and back it out. If there isn't enough threads to double nut it, you get to pull the manifold off and then remove the stud.
Intake Manifold removal & installation
Here's some tips...
Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.
The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.
Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence for a 5.0 Fox stang:
Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
Get a tube of anti-seize and coat all the bolt threads and under the bolt heads. That will help insure even torque when you tighten the manifold bolts. Plan on re-torquing them a after a weeks worth of driving
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)
What can happen if you don’t use the stay in place gasket…
Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. Spay everything with anything you have, and you won't find the leak...
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