And This Is Why You Stick To Mm Parts (not Even Steeda) Update Resolved

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Just passing through.

Long Stroke is a fantastic username.


that is all


haha, thanks dude.

Actually saw it on a front license plate on a shop job many years ago, it read Big Daddy Long Stroke. The 88 Fox GT had a bowling ball paint job with 15" hammers.

It always stuck out as funny to me and when I put a 351 in my car with a longer 3.5" stroke, I figured it was fitting.
 
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Hey Joe, thanks for the reply.

I believe you might have received the bushings for our steel lowers and not the aluminum lowers like you have. Looking at the bushing tube prints, the aluminum lowers have an ID of 1.950" and the steel lowers have a bushing tube with an ID of 1.750".

Wow, the ones that blew out were yellow in color? Now that's a blast from the past. I bet the bushing has the numbers 2302 on them because we only made 2 kits with yellow bushings 79-98 (555-4503) and 99-04 (555-4603). They haven't been in production since 2003 but I do have some more yellow replacement bushings in stock.

Just to be clear, you should not be running the bushings with the 1.8 OD in your aluminum lowers with a 1.950 ID bushing tube, that's too much slop. Please email me directly your ship to address, and what year your car is and I'll gladly send out a FREE set tomorrow to you as FedEx is loading up as I type this.

FYI we have 3 bushings options for that arm, Yellow 95 durometer, black 90 durometer and red 85 durometer. Just let me know what you want.

Once again sorry for the inconvenience and the trouble this has cause. But at the end of the day, we'll make this right.

Thanks,
Scott

Thanks scott, I will send you my info.
I was always happy with the arms, that's why I just wanted to redo the bushings. In the arm the bushings are still fairly round and tight, outside the arm they turn loose and oblong.
I really could have sworn the number inside on the bushings was 3 digits.
Might as was well discuss the "durometer" info out in the open so everyone knows what that means (including me). I have to assume it's stiffness, but how that affects me or the handling or ride quality is relevant.

Car is set up more for handling (will be getting a panhard bar as soon as we are done), makes 480rwhp 500rwhp torque. I drive it fairly hard when I drive it, including from a stand still.
I drive around on drag radials 100% of the time.

I figured it needed the 3 piece to prevent bind, was nice to find out that I already had them.

Your opinion?
I would guess yellow again, but i'll let you decide.

This is the kinda service I expected from steeda as opposed to the cheap junk out there.
Looks like it will end positively.
Thanks,
Joe
pm sent
 
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Yes durometer means the stiffness of the bushings. Typically on a street driven car with 500 rwhp the black bushings are the way to go. If all you do is drag race the yellows will be more stout but some increased NVH will be present. I'll go ahead and put together a nice "package" for you so you don't have to worry about not having replacements in the future.

Once again sorry this didn't get handled properly the first time but like I mentioned, at the end of the day we want you satisfied.

Scott
 
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Upgrade the handling, maybe throw some bolt ons, headers, exhaust, I already have an edelbrock intake that I'm going to reuse.i don't intend on drag racing it or anything like that
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Upper and lower control arms will help with the traction. But to greatly improve handling I'd also suggest lowering springs, and front and rear swaybars. It would completely transform the way the car handles and feels.
 
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Personally don't skimp on suspension parts. Going coilover? Contact MM. They will get you setup for the proper sized springs(length-rate) and I highly recommend strange engineering adj struts. You'll also need CC plates if you don't have any. For a street car I would look at around 200# spring rate.
Yea those coil overs were cheap
[emoji1]
Ill look into the MM ones


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Well, looks like scott did as he said and resolved the situation.
Received 2 new sets of bushing and all the parts needed to install them.
While i didn't put them in, they are 2 inches just as they needed to be.

I don't think anyone will have any more customer service issues with steeda (something i never expected from steeda to begin with).
And if you do, you probably don't need to make one of these posts like i did to fix it. Just PM Long Stroke.
He's been with steeda for a long time, long enough to know all their products and understands what bad public relations does.

Oh and this time i'm using gloves with the water proof grease, not sure how many times i have to learn that lesson.
Thanks again,
Joe

Mods: Could you edit the title to say resolved (i don't think i can).
Or just delete the whole thing.
 
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I wouldn't delete it. This is good info for people who search about companies customer service.

I know I have a short list of companies I deal with.
 
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Well, looks like scott did as he said and resolved the situation.
Received 2 new sets of bushing and all the parts needed to install them.
While i didn't put them in, they are 2 inches just as they needed to be.

I don't think anyone will have any more customer service issues with steeda (something i never expected from steeda to begin with).
And if you do, you probably don't need to make one of these posts like i did to fix it. Just PM Long Stroke.
He's been with steeda for a long time, long enough to know all their products and understands what bad public relations does.

Oh and this time i'm using gloves with the water proof grease, not sure how many times i have to learn that lesson.
Thanks again,
Joe

Mods: Could you edit the title to say resolved (i don't think i can).
Or just delete the whole thing.
You should be able to edit the title yourself. In the top right of the thread page you should see "thread tools". It's a drop down and you'll see "edit title". I'm glad to see that Steeda made it good in the end just like GroupAwheels did with me and my ROH wheel failure.
 
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