Anybody with a Torque Arm/ Panhard bar?

Yobi1Kanobi

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
#1
I am researching some rear suspension for the car. The front will already have a tubular front,coil overs with Tokico HP struts.

But my rear is still fairly virgin only thing I got is springs and tokico springs. But I was considering a panhard bar for sure..But what about a torque arm instead of upper control arms. I really would love to add a coilover kit too but that might just push my budget....:(

Anyways chime in I wanna know if any of you guys got a similar setup. And give me some before and after feelings.:nice:

even though this might not come for awhile the car is making good progress so Im just looking ahead.
:SNSign:
 

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#2
My buddy runs I believe the Griggs heavy duty torque arm set up on his 92gt. Seems to do alright. I know he really likes it. I've never driven it with the arm so I couldn't tell you first hand though. I believe it was pretty expensive by the time he had a shop finish the install and supporting hardware.
 
#4
Griggs is arguably the best on the market. that's what i'll be getting within the next year or so. with Maximum motorsports next. i know there is a couple people on here that have the griggs TA. give it some time for them to chime in.
 
#5
I have the MM panhard bar and wanted to go with the torque arm but finacially haven't been able to. When I originally bought my suspension kit from MM we discuss upgrading later with the torque arm and this is how MM explain it to me. With the grip in a box setup that I have I would handle almost as good as my fathers 2003 Z06, MM said once I added the torque arm I would be about to out handle the Z06.
 
#6
Go over to corral and into the autox/road race forum. They have tons of information on it if you search. Just don't ask them to tell you about it, or they'll spit on your face.

corner carvers will also have loads of information. And don't even consider asking them a question if you haven't done a full week of research...they're even worse
 
#7
I've got some MM stuff and am about to start on the rear suspension.

Before I go with the torque arm and panhard bar, I'm going to do the uppers and lowers from MM and see how that goes for a few months. If I want more, then I'll add the PHB and test it for a few months. If I'm still want more, then the TA will be the last part to finish out the rear. Replacement swaybars will happen early on since the stock ones are quite old now. Personally, I'd like to see the difference myself in how each part changes the handling.

Not sure if you have subframe connectors. If you don't, let that be your next mod. I'd go one of two routes: MM super subs or Kenny Brown matrix system.

For basics, the PHB will keep the rear from breaking loose early and keep it from wiggling in corners. The TA will, from what I've read at MM and other reputable manufacturers, help keep the car flat in cornering, braking, and acceleration. Again, check out the manufacturer's sites for specifics and a good description.

If you want a slice of "information" that you'll definitely get from the Corral: "there is no greater suspension mod than taking a driving course/class to fix the nut behind the wheel." A stock Mustang can do a whole lot, however, a highly moddified suspension on a Mustang can make a novice feel better and actually get a bit more out of the stang. The full potential or even coming close, will likely never happen without professional instruction and practice. If you're looking for a good street suspension, then any of the items that's been mentioned are good, because it will make your car safer under normal circumstances. A good suspension will improve handling, braking, and emergency maneuvers. I've gotten out of a couple emergencies which I know my stock suspension would have left me in trouble (not bragging or boasting, cause I'd really rather those instances never happened).

To keep things clear, I'm doing the MM stuff, but Griggs is excellent as well. No complaints really with either brands.
 
#8
Car Nut said:
If you want a slice of "information" that you'll definitely get from the Corral: "there is no greater suspension mod than taking a driving course/class to fix the nut behind the wheel." A stock Mustang can do a whole lot, however, a highly moddified suspension on a Mustang can make a novice feel better and actually get a bit more out of the stang. The full potential or even coming close, will likely never happen without professional instruction and practice. If you're looking for a good street suspension, then any of the items that's been mentioned are good, because it will make your car safer under normal circumstances. A good suspension will improve handling, braking, and emergency maneuvers. I've gotten out of a couple emergencies which I know my stock suspension would have left me in trouble (not bragging or boasting, cause I'd really rather those instances never happened).

To keep things clear, I'm doing the MM stuff, but Griggs is excellent as well. No complaints really with either brands.
Click to expand...

good points :nice:

From what I've read, the Torque arm completely transforms the way the car handles. It's apparently, a night and day difference. I'll be getting one come spring time, so I'll let you know how it goes (or maybe yobi, you can let me know if you get one)
 
#10
get a what link?

And yes i do have subframes..that was one of the first thing i did to the car..

As far as upper and lowers are concern MM recomends using stock uppers and new bushings and just new stock bushings they say anything harder than that messes up your torque box and starts ripping the sheet metal due to that way upper control arms work. And the best thing you can do is replace that system all together with a Torque arm and panhard.....

I am probably looking at doing this in a few month after my car is running and tuned I just got a membership to NASA and am gonna give that a shot tell you the truth I was about bored with just a straight line car I wanna tear up a couple hot laps.

NASA membership..............................................$40
Driving school.....................................................$150
New motor,Tranny and suspension mods..........$10,000.00
Tearing up the track in your very own Stang.....$Priceless
 
#11
My buddy had I believe the Griggs panhard bar on his car when he bought it and because it was the adjustable one he couldn't put tailpipes on it. I guess you can get them adjustable and non-adjustable and if its adjustable you cant run tailpipes. His car came with side exhaust and he wanted it out the back, thats why I say this. Just an fyi, but you prolly already knew.
 
#15
baglock1 said:
That was odd. I haven't been on SN in probably a year and the first post I look at quoted one of my old ones. I guess I can rest easy knowing I made somewhat of a positive contribution to the forum. :)
Click to expand...

Thats right. Great write-up :nice:

I'd love to do a set-up like that whenever I finish the rest of the drivetrain, funds permitting of course.
 
#16
I have the Griggs extreme duty torque arm and panhard bar. The rear tires rubbed on the inner fenderwheel when making a tight turn and going up a driveway. The rear axel rotates more than with the stock setup. I had to hammer the wheelwells:( . This with with 10" rims and 295-35-18 tire. A smaller rim/tire probably would not have rubbed. I had to have the exhaust custom made to clear the panhard bar. I have heard that with the Watts link you have to run side exhaust or dumps?, something I was not going to do.

On how it handles well its unreal!! It is way more than street tires can grip. No nose dive on braking. It transforms the car!! Go to the Griggs website and it will tell you alot of info on it. The Griggs is VERY spendy the MM is cheaper and it sounds like more on your budget. It is worth every penny you spend if you like going fast in the corners!:D
 
#20
S351Saleen77 said:
I have the Griggs extreme duty torque arm and panhard bar. The rear tires rubbed on the inner fenderwheel when making a tight turn and going up a driveway. The rear axel rotates more than with the stock setup. I had to hammer the wheelwells:( . This with with 10" rims and 295-35-18 tire. A smaller rim/tire probably would not have rubbed. I had to have the exhaust custom made to clear the panhard bar. I have heard that with the Watts link you have to run side exhaust or dumps?, something I was not going to do.

On how it handles well its unreal!! It is way more than street tires can grip. No nose dive on braking. It transforms the car!! Go to the Griggs website and it will tell you alot of info on it. The Griggs is VERY spendy the MM is cheaper and it sounds like more on your budget. It is worth every penny you spend if you like going fast in the corners!:D
Click to expand...

What do you mean the rear axle rotated more than stock. And how much did you have to hammer the fender inner fender i hope with no visible damge to the car right. Watts link is really out of the question. But I dont mind the side exhaust if I am able to get my hands on some SVO side skirts....:nice: Do you have any pics of the install. I think the MM is only about 50-100 dollar difference but how much is the difference in quality really they both seem like good pieces. :shrug:
 
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