Build Thread Bird_dog0347's Frankenstang, sure is nice of us to build a car around the fuel filler door

It's here, I'll be installing it hopefully tonight/tomorrow. Already got the base timing set to 10 degrees with the A9L and need to swap this thing in to try and start it.

4C5513ED-E813-47F9-A121-A3E6EF92EE4A_zpswikkqysl.jpg
 
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Did you already install your wideband sensor?
Nope, one thing at a time. I got the MS2PNP installedish (passenger floorboard) for now to start it up. Fired up on the first try with a really high idle, got the trigger offset corrected so that with the spout in the timing shows 10 degrees like it should but I still idle around 1500 RPM. I'm attaching a data log (after setting back to "use table" and burn/save) and hope that now I just need to verify my TPS and reset my idle adjustment screw... correct @hoopty5.0 @a91what ?
 

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Nope, one thing at a time. I got the MS2PNP installedish (passenger floorboard) for now to start it up. Fired up on the first try with a really high idle, got the trigger offset corrected so that with the spout in the timing shows 10 degrees like it should but I still idle around 1500 RPM. I'm attaching a data log (after setting back to "use table" and burn/save) and hope that now I just need to verify my TPS and reset my idle adjustment screw... correct @hoopty5.0 @a91what ?
Did you calibrate everything? I'm not sure it'll run worth a sh*t without the wideband either
 
So I started it up and it took 3.5 turns out on the idle screw to get it to idle around 800 RPM, then I calibrated the TPS, and now it idles like a champ and already runs 110% better then it ever did with the A9L. When I first opened the project in TS I selected narrow band O2 sensors, I'll change it when I add the WB hopefully tomorrow. It hasn't left it's perch on the ramps under the front tires but holy hell is it already better. WELL worth it.
 
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So I started it up and it took 3.5 turns out on the idle screw to get it to idle around 800 RPM, then I calibrated the TPS, and now it idles like a champ and already runs 110% better then it ever did with the A9L. When I first opened the project in TS I selected narrow band O2 sensors, I'll change it when I add the WB hopefully tomorrow. It hasn't left it's perch on the ramps under the front tires but holy hell is it already better. WELL worth it.
Congratulations!
 
No, I forgot that there was an option to use the narrow band sensors in there. It just may have more trouble reading if it's super fat/lean that way.

Last night I put the WB sensor in the passenger side header (it fit the bung) and today I should get my A-Pillar gauge pod from LMR to put the AFR gauge in. I also set the idle polarity to normal as suggested. I now need to figure out where I'm going to run the wire through the firewall from the sensor to the controller then figure out how the hell to connect the controller to the MSPNP2. THEN I'll be able to change the settings to WB and start it back up. Yesterday however with the NB sensor once I got the TPS set and the idle set it was already running better than it ever did with the A9L and no exhaust smell. It was running way off with the A9L cause even with cats in my H pipe the smell was horrendous.

Now question about calibrating the MAT and CLT @hoopty5.0 @a91what, it looks like I'd need to know what the voltages are for those sensors as the MS unit assumes they are GM sensors... how do I find those values? It didn't seem to be a setting like the TPS where I could get current. That said, I didn't do a lot of research on it yet and intend to do that as well.
 
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You don't need any of that, just select the ford default value.
 
Last night I put the WB sensor in the passenger side header (it fit the bung) and today I should get my A-Pillar gauge pod from LMR to put the AFR gauge in. I also set the idle polarity to normal as suggested. I now need to figure out where I'm going to run the wire through the firewall from the sensor to the controller then figure out how the hell to connect the controller to the MSPNP2. THEN I'll be able to change the settings to WB and start it back up. Yesterday however with the NB sensor once I got the TPS set and the idle set it was already running better than it ever did with the A9L and no exhaust smell. It was running way off with the A9L cause even with cats in my H pipe the smell was horrendous.

Now question about calibrating the MAT and CLT @hoopty5.0 @a91what, it looks like I'd need to know what the voltages are for those sensors as the MS unit assumes they are GM sensors... how do I find those values? It didn't seem to be a setting like the TPS where I could get current. That said, I didn't do a lot of research on it yet and intend to do that as well.
I ran my WB sensor wiring up the trans tunnel, through my shifter hole in the floor, with the LC-1 connector tucked inside the console. You'll need to cut a wire on your main harness and solder in a wire for your WB. Your LC-2 will communicate to both the WB gauge and to the computer for data logging and Tuner Studio auto tuning.
 
I ran my WB sensor wiring up the trans tunnel, through my shifter hole in the floor, with the LC-1 connector tucked inside the console. You'll need to cut a wire on your main harness and solder in a wire for your WB. Your LC-2 will communicate to both the WB gauge and to the computer for data logging and Tuner Studio auto tuning.

That's a better idea, I'll try that here in a bit when I can get out to the garage, thanks!
 
So I got everything all installed and setup thanks to everyone here and in the MS tuning thread for the help. It took a while to get the timing set right, as well as the WB configured and up and running. I worked for a few days on just getting all that setup and safe and got it running pretty well, and took it around the neighborhood a few times to make sure it wasn't gonna puke on me. Then last night was the normal thursday night GTG about 12-15 miles from my house so I decided to take it there and hang out. There were a total of 5 foxes including mine, and 4 were notch backs. I used the auto tune feature the whole way there and it seemed to run really well even in like 85 degree heat and lots of traffic.

On the way home, I tried to data log it but I kept loosing connection to the MSPNP on the laptop as I think I need better ground wiring on the engine. I knew before all these upgrades that when I would turn on my headlights at night it would make my temperature gauge jump up 1/4 from it's normal range, and turning off the headlights made it go back down to normal, on again and it's back up. I did some checking and the common theory is that I need a larger ground wire from the engine to the chassis since I upgraded to the 3G and have a 4GA wire coming off of that. I'm going to try that next and hopefully it solves the problem. That said, would it be better to replace the strap on the back of the intake with the larger wire, add the larger wire as an additional ground to the back of the head, or something else?

13177302_10205854631034310_4891223063548918938_n_zpsulsajiyy.jpg
7AE988F2-909B-477A-8F47-5AD365456343_zpstdmdy3lv.jpg
369B7802-7C26-4E2F-BC46-7ED17631D280_zpsnu8b0htn.jpg
 
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So I got everything all installed and setup thanks to everyone here and in the MS tuning thread for the help. It took a while to get the timing set right, as well as the WB configured and up and running. I worked for a few days on just getting all that setup and safe and got it running pretty well, and took it around the neighborhood a few times to make sure it wasn't gonna puke on me. Then last night was the normal thursday night GTG about 12-15 miles from my house so I decided to take it there and hang out. There were a total of 5 foxes including mine, and 4 were notch backs. I used the auto tune feature the whole way there and it seemed to run really well even in like 85 degree heat and lots of traffic.

On the way home, I tried to data log it but I kept loosing connection to the MSPNP on the laptop as I think I need better ground wiring on the engine. I knew before all these upgrades that when I would turn on my headlights at night it would make my temperature gauge jump up 1/4 from it's normal range, and turning off the headlights made it go back down to normal, on again and it's back up. I did some checking and the common theory is that I need a larger ground wire from the engine to the chassis since I upgraded to the 3G and have a 4GA wire coming off of that. I'm going to try that next and hopefully it solves the problem. That said, would it be better to replace the strap on the back of the intake with the larger wire, add the larger wire as an additional ground to the back of the head, or something else?

13177302_10205854631034310_4891223063548918938_n_zpsulsajiyy.jpg
7AE988F2-909B-477A-8F47-5AD365456343_zpstdmdy3lv.jpg
369B7802-7C26-4E2F-BC46-7ED17631D280_zpsnu8b0htn.jpg

Is that flat black coupe with the plasti-dipped hood Spawn's coupe (Gt40Ps with Anderson Powerpipe)?