Very good Cam thread....where I got schooled. Haha.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-question.html
Post at the bottom is a graph of basically full bolt on with Cams. Over 300 whp.
Haha. It was good learning.
Thanks for posting the link.
So I'm thinking about cams with the tax return here soon. Is this a worthwhile mod? I have full bolt-ons right now making 270 at the wheels. Will I break 300 with stage 2 cams? Was thinking either the HiTechs or Comp Cams.
I like the fact that the HiTechs use factory valve springs. Do the Comp Cams require new ones?
I will be paying somebody to do the work. Is this basic drop in and tune? Will I be fine without an immediate adjustment tune?
Currently have
Longtubes
O/R H
catback
pullies
TB/plenum
suspension
gears
tune
-Worthwhile mod?-
You are looking at spending at least $900 to buy them and get them installed. For some good dyno tune time you are easily over 1k total. That being said w/ either of the two cams you talked about above you should be right at or slightly above 300rwhp on a dynojet. The gain in power across the powerband and the sound made it a worthwhile mod for me. This mod will register on the butt dyno much more than anything you have listed thus far.
Does nitrous give you more bang for buck, yes- but it doesn't last forever like cams do.
Would 1-1.5k better be spent on a good start for a s/c kit- probably, but doing the cams with a supercharger later is not a bad deal either. Cams and superchargers can work very well together.
Bottom line I like my stage II cams. Get them installed correctly, dyno tune it ASAP.
For more details to your questions:
-300rwhp?-
already covered, yes you will be there w/ a dynojet, about 280-290rwhp w/ a mustang dyno (reads typically 3-5% lower).
-Comp 270's or hitech stage II's-
I wrote a ton about my experience w/ the hitech stage 2's in the thread posted by maxpowers.
I can't say a ton about the 270's because I've never owned them but in tons of research before buying they seem to be a solid cam. From the two cams you picked - if you want the rough idle the comp 270's are the one to go with, they are going to sound mean with your o/r H.
-Install-
Both cams have track records of potential PTV clearance problems. With both you will want to have your cams installed by someone who knows what they are doing. For either one-
***You must degree your cams. I know hitech advertises that you don't have to but it is a very bad idea. Google search PTV and hitech (or comp 270's) and you will find some horror stories on the corral about people who "just dropped them in". There are people who get away with it but your mileage may vary.
For any stage 2 cam I would use aftermarket springs. My car is low miles and I used stock springs but my valvetrain now makes much more noise and is working much harder than before.
Hitech recommend springs after 100k. The comp 270's require springs. If I were to do it again I wouldn't skimp out on springs, you will pay more now but have much more peace of mind later.
-Tuning-
You must tune. Your car will run like crap if you don't get it dyno tuned. The dyno tune is critical to this mod working correctly. With boltons- you just make minor changes to flow and the computer can sort it out. This is a significant change in the way the engine operates. It may require multiple dyno sessions to get the tune right and you should get a proper dyno tune ASAP after getting the cams installed (a mail order tune will not work). You should pay good money up front for a person good @ tuning to get everything right. Mine drove fine after the first tune (the '95% tune') but my tune required some tweaking to get everything right.