Damn motor mount

[5.0guy]

What's the best way to get the driver's side motor mount unbolted from the k-frame? We already broke a flex handle(3/8) and a 3in extension(1/2). Think a universal joint would be the next best thing? Thanks

 

[stang22]

I used a 1/2" breaker bar from underneath the car with no problems.

Tim

 

[5.0guy]

well, we got the pass. side off no problem, but this driver's side one is like fused on to the k-frame or something

 

[stang22]

Are you using a breaker bar or something where you can get some good torque on it? Did you try spraying any WD-40 or anything like that on it?

Tim

 

[5.0guy]

yeah, we let some penetrating lube soak on there for a while. we used a breaker bar both times..it's on there so well that it twisted the drive part of the flex handle, and it completely broke the extension.

I think we'll throw some heat on it next time...

 

[93 teal terror]

Holy crap....what brand is that tool?

 

[5.0guy]

Craftsman..good thing about their warranty. I think I was going at it at a weird angle. I heard a crack, and I thought it was the bolt breaking loose, then I went at it again and it broke completely off. Got a new one though, so I'm happy.

 

[HISSIN50]

PB and some heat sounds like a nice idea. if the mounts are not oem, some moron could have 'retapped' an SAE nut (or vice versa) onto the shank (some mounts come with SAE, some metric).
i cant remember if one can get a wheel onto the bolt/shank to grind it off (been too long since i did mounts).

good luck.

 

[5.0guy]

Funny you mentioned PB..little PB(I decided I'd bring some from home since it's good stuff) and a universal joint accompanied by a breaker bar did the trick. Yesterday when we were working on it, we noticed the driver's side motor mount was pretty bad. We figured if we kept jacking up the motor, it'd rip right out since the pass. side was out. We were wrong. Grade 8 doesn't mean a thing when there's that much pulling on it..

Other than that bolt, today went smoothly. The motor is out of the car and on the stand waiting for the intake to come off. Think we'll be able to replace the rear main easily enough while it's on the stand? It's getting some ES Poly mounts when it's reinstalled. You can have poly mounts and a poly trans mount, just not solid and solid, right? Thanks to all who helped.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Hope you didn't go through all that just for a rear main ?

I just had to do my rear main yesterday, all I did was drop the h-pipe, trans, clutch & flywheel, then all you got to do is pry the old out & pop a new in, all in all it took me two evenings & I am done

 

[HISSIN50]

right, poly on poly is alright. solid on solid can be harsh - solid motor mounts and an elastomer trans mount can work decently though. enjoy the new parts and good luck with the project.

 

[5.0guy]

Hope you didn't go through all that just for a rear main ?

I just had to do my rear main yesterday, all I did was drop the h-pipe, trans, clutch & flywheel, then all you got to do is pry the old out & pop a new in, all in all it took me two evenings & I am done

Nah, we're doing some engine bay work(wire hiding, possibly painting) and it's gettin a blower and intake. Did you have to drop the pan when u replaced the rear main?

 

[jwzg]

ES mounts are quite good, as I have the motor and tranny mounts. I did notice a bit more vibration in the 1500-2000 rpm range when cruising, probably due to driveline imbalance. It's magnified by the exhaust in my case. I think you'll be pleased.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Nah, we're doing some engine bay work(wire hiding, possibly painting) and it's gettin a blower and intake. Did you have to drop the pan when u replaced the rear main?

Nope sure didn't